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Hooker Headers V8 Kit???


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Well I happen to be looking at the stored photos on the camera and found some that hopefully will work for you. Take a look below.

 

The one of the engine compartment, shows the mid-plate attached to the frame rails and also you can see the tabs I made up front that I bolt the front motor plates to. You want to use two bolts when bolting them, so you will not get any pivot / rocking motion. I hope these help.

 

John

 

engine compartment_thumb.JPG

 

plate drv side_thumb.JPG

 

plate pass_thumb.JPG

 

plate_thumb.JPG

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Well we mostly run the headers uncapped so there is a lot of noise and vibration, when the mufflers are on it is not too bad. Still a lot of rumble I guess due to the cam, it idles at 1000rpm so you know more race oriented than street. But at least the so called frame is tied together with no flexing that we can tell.

 

John

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Well we mostly run the headers uncapped so there is a lot of noise and vibration, when the mufflers are on it is not too bad. Still a lot of rumble I guess due to the cam, it idles at 1000rpm so you know more race oriented than street. But at least the so called frame is tied together with no flexing that we can tell.

 

John

I don't know about how it sounds with mufflers but my ears have still not recovered from shooting video 20 feet away from your car without them!

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My swap was easy and cheap,

I used 2.5 in square tube welded into a solid box with a tube throught the center for the bolt to mount.. 69 GMC truck mounts with the center bolt that passes through. Grade 9 bolts and safety cables on the left side Added a 3/4 in plate steel spacer to get oil pan off suspension. This mounted on the original perches with perch holes slotted back and offset 3/4in to align motor and tranny with pinion, meant I had to remove hoodlatch but left room to clear HEI distributor. Then I took an old turbo 350 short tail shaft with tranny mount, lined it up so all was level and offset 3/4 inch to align with rear carrier, and built a spring steel tranny crossmember out of a collapsed(flat) leaf spring bolted through the floor at the frame rails. That gave me just enough clearance to use $89 shorty center dump headers and clear the crossmember. 6 of 8 cylinders are behind the shock towers. I used the short early vette water pump, a one wire hookup GM 100 amp alternator and an 89 S10 4.3 V6 with air and towing package radiator fitted by trimming the frame rails at the core support just a tad and mounted with the original GM hold down and rubbers.I use a 14 inch slimfit electric fan wired to run continuously, and a 160 thermostat. I run a 355 with double hump heads 10-1 compression, 512 lift Lunati cam , a 3000 stall throught a turbo 350 with a quicksilver shifter. Manual steering that steers great, heat works, all accessories work, thanks to a universal speedo cable with the Jap end braded on the top and US on the other with a camaro gear in the tranny it is only 2 mph off at 75mph. I have an r180 limited slip rear (which makes me nervous, I hope to upgrade). I live in the south and can sit in 90 degree traffic all day and never go over 200 degrees and stay around 165-175 degrees on the move. I have driven this car 12,000 miles and raced several weekends in the last 2 yrs with no problems other than some dash wiring thanks to 30+ yr old harness. I don't "flash" the converter so the rear is holding up and I run 93 octane gas with av gas mix or race gas at the track. I have used 89 and additive when I'm just riding around but i keep the timing back a touch. ( Makes for a nice bangin' idle too in gear!!!) Some might consider it a junkyard dog but it is faithful and LO' Buck!

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Well I happen to be looking at the stored photos on the camera and found some that hopefully will work for you. Take a look below.

 

The one of the engine compartment, shows the mid-plate attached to the frame rails and also you can see the tabs I made up front that I bolt the front motor plates to. You want to use two bolts when bolting them, so you will not get any pivot / rocking motion. I hope these help.

 

John

 

[ATTACH]1835[/ATTACH]

 

Thanks for the pics John.

 

I'm gonna show my lack of knowledge here, but oh well, here goes.....Are those the factory frame rails (where the motor plate tabs are welded), or ones that you installed?

 

My factory rails are in really good shape (as far as rust), I just have no idea if they are strong enough.

 

Thanks again,

Chris

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Yes they are the factory frame rails. By using the front motor plates in addition to the mid-plate, kind of tie it all together. So far have not twisted the so called frame yet. It is pretty stought.

 

john

 

Thanks for the pics John.

 

I'm gonna show my lack of knowledge here, but oh well, here goes.....Are those the factory frame rails (where the motor plate tabs are welded), or ones that you installed?

 

My factory rails are in really good shape (as far as rust), I just have no idea if they are strong enough.

 

Thanks again,

Chris

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Great, thanks.

 

I'm sure your engine makes more HP than mine....and it looks like you've got the "spray" on top of that, so if you haven't twisted the rails, hopefully I won't either.

 

Now if I can just finish paying for all the Christmas gifts for my kids, I could buy some parts for myself :mrgreen: .

 

Chris

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