drews240 Posted September 27, 2006 Author Share Posted September 27, 2006 What other grounds do you have? The MS needs at least 2 16 gauge ground wires to the chassis. The EDIS module should have a 14 gauge wire to ground. Do you have a 4 gauge ground wire from the engine to the chassis? Attach the MS ground wires where the engine block is grounded. I have the battery in the back of my race car, so that isn't the problem. 16 gauge from edis to chassis ground The 6 MS ground wires are connected to the engine block 14 gauge there is 1 4 gauge wire from the shock tower to the engine block and 1 braid ground from the engine block to the firewall The injectors are grounded to the chassis. Drew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eec564 Posted September 28, 2006 Share Posted September 28, 2006 Now, correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought MS turned on the injectors by grounding them, and that the + side of the injectors was switched by the ignition switch and generally through a relay too. You may also want to consider grounding MS to the chassis, in the cabin, the engine block has lots of noise in it from the alternator and ignition system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubbleguinea Posted September 28, 2006 Share Posted September 28, 2006 welding tip....ive got one in line with my map sensor....but ive got SDS... it creates less turblance in the suction--or something like that...it creates a nice constant vaccum through a small port... i was told to use it per the Dyno operator...he said they did it with a porche a few nights ago, and it made improvement...but i cant vouch for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted September 28, 2006 Share Posted September 28, 2006 Yes, how can the injectors be grounded to the chassis? The injectors should have +12V on one wire (with a series resistor if you want to turn off PWM), and the other wire goes to the MS which provides gorund. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drews240 Posted September 28, 2006 Author Share Posted September 28, 2006 Yes, how can the injectors be grounded to the chassis? The injectors should have +12V on one wire (with a series resistor if you want to turn off PWM), and the other wire goes to the MS which provides gorund. I need to verify that that ground actually goes to the injectors, when i was cleaning up the wiring it looked like one of the chassis grounds went under the plenum. I know there is no resistor! what size resistor does the 12V to the injectors need? I will check it out this morning. I tried the restrictor it did not change anything, it made the car harder to start. Drew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted September 28, 2006 Share Posted September 28, 2006 Drew, With a V3 board, a Megasquirt won't actually need injector resistors. But they may be there anyway. Injector resistors are often physically fairly large; I've got a Toyota resistor pack that is about the size of a pack of cigarettes. A chassis ground wire under the plenum may simply be to help ground some of the sensors on the cylinder heads and/or intake manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted September 28, 2006 Share Posted September 28, 2006 If you don't want to experiment with the PWM settings, you can turn PWM off and put series resistors. I either use a 280Z resistors pack (mounted next to clutch master cylinder) or 5W 5 Ohm power resistors. I put them in all installs because eliminates the possiblity of damaging the injector drivers if you use a V2.2 board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drews240 Posted September 29, 2006 Author Share Posted September 29, 2006 The ground was actually going to the temp sensor (the injectors are not grounded, check this out>>> I ordered a new TPS (G35) yesterday got quoted $134 Canadian so I was like cool it will be $100 with my Contingency, I go to pick it up and the box weighs like 7Lbs!!! low and behold it comes with the throttle body, yeaaaaa!! i laughed my ass of because if you order the TB it is like $300. Strange little goodness. Anyway I removed the MS grounds form the block today (all of them) and forgot to reconnect them on the chassis, I sarted the car and it seemed to run fine, I don't know for sure yet, why would it start with none of the MS grounds connected (not even touching the body)? Z-YA? have you finished with my MS settings yet? I have a local tech guy coming tomorrow to check everything out and run a scope. If all is well I will test her monday night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eec564 Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 MS has to be grounded some how, otherwise it won't work. Re-check all your wiring, see exactly what runs where. Make a diagram too, it seriously helps in the long (and even short) run. Be careful with MS not connected to ground well, it may pull a lot of power from the little grounding it has and burn something out. Awsome deal on the TPS and throttle body. You could sell the new (or old, if it's nice) body without the TPS for quite a bit. Just don't do it for a couple months, in case the company realizes what they did and ask for it back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 Drew, Some of your ingnition setting don't match what is suggested in the MSII EDIS page: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm 1) Why is your trigger offset set to -4? It should be zero. 2) The predictor algorith should be set to "Last Interval". 3) Cranking trigger should be "Calculated" Try fixing these settings and let us know how you make out. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drews240 Posted September 30, 2006 Author Share Posted September 30, 2006 Drew, Some of your ingnition setting don't match what is suggested in the MSII EDIS page: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm 1) Why is your trigger offset set to -4? It should be zero. 2) The predictor algorith should be set to "Last Interval". 3) Cranking trigger should be "Calculated" Try fixing these settings and let us know how you make out. Pete Tried these settings, and last night we spent about 6 hours trying everything possible. Tested all lines for noise, everything is normal Filters on everthing anyway all grounds confirmed and placed accordingly completely removed the alternator (changed nothing) tested for arching (none) new helicore custom wires VR signal is good and wire is clean we tested three EDIS modules, three coil packs, tested all the wires between the two and found that with a timing light when going through the revs you see the crank jitter when it does its cuts, if you remove the signal wire from the MS to the EDIS it stops and it runs ok through the RPM at 10 degrees, plug back in the signal from MS and the problem is back. We looked at the signal on a very good scope and the signal coming from the MS looks good!!! I have a brand new TPS and the signal is good, the MAP signal is good, all the wiring seems good. What next? Has anybody successfully done the VQ with the MSII version 3 and EDIS 6? IF SO I WILL PAY FOR A DETAILED LIST OF WHAT HE/SHE HAS DONE AND IS USING DOWN TO PLUGS, WIRES,GROUND POINTS, INJECTORS, BATTERY AND SO ON. Don't include Fred Allen Burge in that list because he is not done his either. Thanks guys/girls Drew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drews240 Posted October 1, 2006 Author Share Posted October 1, 2006 Well the gentleman that came to help me on Friday discovered late Friday night that one of the settings requested on the MS site is wrong for some reason or another. The setting under Ignition settings for Ignition input capture should be set to rising edge not falling edge as said on the MS site. Unless when DIY built my unit they messed up somewhere. We went back and forth between falling and rising and when it was set to falling it was bucking and cutting out set to rising it was smooth through the rev range. i will be going to the track tomorrow to confirm, I will let you all know. Thanks again to a great bunch of guys and all the trouble shooting was indeed a lesson for me. Thanks Drew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex_V Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 Sounds great Drew!! make sure you do a detailed list of your MS setup, Im sure it'll be usefull soon! Im glad you finaly got it figured out, Ive been following your setup(s) on FA and here and its great to see you get your MS setup running. Are you running the COP's? Thats my only reason for wanting to say with MS1. But also my s13 is my DD and isnt ready for the VQ swap and probably wont be untill next summer ~Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drews240 Posted October 2, 2006 Author Share Posted October 2, 2006 Sounds great Drew!! make sure you do a detailed list of your MS setup, Im sure it'll be usefull soon! Im glad you finaly got it figured out, Ive been following your setup(s) on FA and here and its great to see you get your MS setup running. Are you running the COP's? Thats my only reason for wanting to say with MS1. But also my s13 is my DD and isnt ready for the VQ swap and probably wont be untill next summer ~Alex Sorry what is FA? and what is COP's? I will know more tonight in regards to the car and its fixed state, I do know that it stopped doing it on the the jack stands where it was before so? I plan to make the sensor bracket available, spec for the 36-1 wheel mounting, wiring diagram for VQ's, custom spark wire set up, settings for start up and advanced dyno set-up. I think all my experiences with this will make it a breeze for anybody else doing it. Drew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 Drew, Inverting the spark out appears to have fixed the problem. Just to be sure, verify that the advance is working. If you invert the sprak output so the polarity is now incorrect for the EIDIS, the timing will be fixed at 10 degrees. It will probably run fine with a fixed advance of 10 deg, but it won't perform well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drews240 Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 Thanks to everyone who helped me with this, it turns out that aside from the mega squirt settings for falling and rising edge, there were some air bubble problems in the fuel cell along with fuel being forced to the back of the tank and the pump sucking air. Inturn some additional bucking. Car set to rising edge and yes the timing advances with the map. So I guess my mega was set up worng from DIY. Thanks Again to everyone, now I can put the car to bed for the winter knowing I can race next season. Drew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 I dont want to read everything again so at the risk if being reduntant, do you have a fuel pressure gauge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drews240 Posted October 12, 2006 Author Share Posted October 12, 2006 I dont want to read everything again so at the risk if being reduntant, do you have a fuel pressure gauge? Yes, there is enough pressure. It was the placement of the pick up on the fuel cell and the way the baffles are in the cell that added to a few setting problems in the MS. Cheers Drew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HB280ZT Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 I also had a bucking problem with my turbo car at boost. It turned out I had my plugs gapped to .040 and at about 12psi I was blowing out the spark. I changed the gap to .030 and the bucking went away. Just thought you all should know what solved my bucking problem. MS1 V3 running extra code. HB280ZT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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