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4n71B swap for 280zx


defrag010

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I've been reading forever about doing the L4n71B swap in lieu of the L3n71B. I got my 3n71B out of the car, and I was wondering why we have to use the maxima bellhousing? Why won't the standard Z bellhousing work.

 

It makes sense to me based on the fact that since the same series transmissions share components (like the shift improver kit for the 3n71 and the 4n71 are the same, as well as the re4r01 and re4r03, etc), they would have the same mounting dimensions. I could be wrong, though, but what is preventing the 4n71B from mounting up to the stock L28 auto bellhousing?

 

Also, lastly, I'm going to be boosting the motor. Will I need to get a new regulator that is made for positive pressure (boost)? Where can I get one from?

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Thanks.. that's the same info I've found so far. The 4n71B I'm looking for isn't out of a maxima, rather a RX-7 because RX-7 enthusiasts will literally give them away. I'm doing a stock rebuild on it and doing the valve body mods that someone (forgot who) posted on this site.

 

I'm not worried about the power level at all, and I didn't even mention power level in my question. I'm just wondering if I can use my stock L28E to 3n71B bellhousing to attatch my L28 to a 4n71B.

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okay!!! thanks for telling me the trannys are weak! I know! If I was going for something with strength and wanted to spend a bunch of money, I would put a built 200R4 in or something. I'm not. I've been to the keas site, and have been reading about the 4n71B for a few weeks now.

This is a daily driver car that will only be making 200-250 horsepower. I am not worried at all about what power level the tranny will take, or what power level I will be making because I do not abuse it nor expect it to be a race car. I only want the easiest way to get a 4th gear because I drive on the hiway alot.

 

Original question: Will the stock L28-->3n71B bellhousing bolt onto a 4n71B ??

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Have you tried swapping the bellhousings? I'm pretty sure that todd wheeler would have said if it would work or not. James thagard might have checked before he went with the gm tranny. The pump might be different from one tranny to the other.

 

I made it easy on myself and got the whole thing from Todd when he was still on the forums.

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Looks like you'll be taking one for the team on this one. I don't know anything about that particular tranny or the swap, so I won't offer you an opinion on it's viability. This is more of a performance oriented forum, so that's probably why nobody knows much about it, since even you seem to think it's not very heavy duty. I think people were trying to give advice thinking you wanted to beef up your trans, not just get better cruising rpms..

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The tranny is not weak at all. It's working well with my setup. If you're going to rebuild the trans, I have the keas build sheet as well as the level 10 shift kit rebuild. Several of us are in the low 12's/11's using it. The guts are the same between the two, with overdrive on the 4n71b. I can't remember if the bell housing swap or not, but James Thagard might still have his old one lying around.

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I bought mine from todd wheeler. He was the one who did the write up on zcar. The transmission came from a maxima rebuilt to the 3 spd auto turbo specs(extra 2nd gear clutch). I have a transmission cooler and a lockup torque converter. The engine is stock and I have no plans to go past stock. I mainly use this car for long trips and weekend drives.

 

There was only one that said it was a weak transmission and that post is still there.

 

Here is a pic of the 4n71b out of a maxima.

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c301/dlh2460/transmissions/4spdauto.jpg

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The 4 spd I got was out of a maxima 81-84. Yes the whole thing bolts right up to the l28. I am sure that if Todd could have used the bellhousing from the 3n71b he would have used it instead of finding a 4n71b bellhousing from a maxima. His car was originally a 3 spd auto.

 

There is more to it than bolting it up and driving it than regular transmission swap. Transmission tunnel brackets need to be cut out, new brackets made and thrubolted in the tunnel, shortened driveshaft.

 

If you read the articles section about the swap on zcar you will see what all is needed.

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The bell housing should physically fit as the 4n is just a 3n with the extra O/D case bolted to the front! I do know that the lock up converter Solenoid is fitted to the bell housing and there are extra oil passages in there as well.

 

 

And as for the power handling, it not really an issue as they can be built tough if you need to. :burnout:

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The torque converters are different between the 2 trannies. So are the fly wheels. This is why the bell housings are different. The Max bell housing bolt right into the L6. What was the reason that you want to use the 3 speeds' bell housing?

 

Don't forget to get the drive shaft out of the Max also.

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  • 2 years later...

Adding info. for future searchers.

 

The best way is to use a 4n71b that was originally in a z31 turbo because it is indeed stronger than the maxima iteration having more friction plates/discs.

 

Use the maxima L24e bellhousing, flywheel, and convertor on it and it will fit.

 

The caveat is that you will have to find a very early z31 turbo automatic tranny (L4n71b instead of (E4n71b).

 

The E version uses a tranny control module but I haven't tried it with the L engine management system/sensors.......etc.

 

If the control module doesn't see what it wants to see, you won't get overdrive and possibly lock-up.

 

The L4n71b doesn't need a control unit.

 

Another possible problem is that the 4n71b from a maxima has a very low stall speed which won't allow you to launch with any boost.....it will come in about 60 feet from the start.

 

If the convertor from the z31 version has the same dimensions.......you can use it to gain enough stall speed to make a huge difference in acceleration.

 

If you're going turbo, use the turbo modulator from either a 280zx turbo or z31 turbo as well as the small rod that it acts on since there are different lengths.

 

One other possible problem is the downshift switch on the gas pedal.

 

With a turbo, it is easily possible to get the car going fast enough in 4th with lockup at part throttle such that stepping further and engaging the kick-down switch will cause the car to go to 3rd.

 

If you're going fast enough, you could possibly overrev the engine by a large margin when it kicks down from 4th to 3rd.........pretty harsh when you're going over 120 and it downshifts causing your engine to rev over 7200rpms coupled with the possibility you could break traction to the rear tires at that speed.

 

I rig a switch on the dash inline with the downshift switch on all my 4n71b trannies behind a strong motor.

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  • 2 years later...

hi all..

from my experience (looking at the bell housings where the starter bolts onto),

 

the tranny that came with the L28 diesel was the L-L,this has a metal by pass line that goes to the rear of the tranny centre housing>>>if damaged two ends of a brake line can replace this line with a brass cap and ferul connection...

 

the tranny that came with the L24 engines was the L-E...this had the electronic solenoid on the bell housing to lock the converter...without the computer controller, apply 12volts to this solenoid to lock the converter...and on this 12v line install three 5 pin relays, the first is to disengage the 12v power source while braking, the second is to disconnect the 12volt source while in kick down, and the third is optional...can be used for 2 functions...to disengage the A/C compressor and remove the 12volt source while starting the motor..plus a master disengage switch...to only engage when you want the "5th gear", >>>most people i have done this for end up leaving the converter locked...and the result is the car drives and sounds as a manual vehicle, but with a slow pull off/acceleration....

 

the 3 speed trannies have a much smaller bell housing and a smaller converter without the lock up function...though i have seen these to be more durable....

if i remember correctly, a 3 speed converter and bellhousing was used on a 4 speed tranny...the input shaft from the 3 speed ws utlised (the one with the o ring seal is from the 4 speed)..this was done for someone who constantly was stripping converters....(abuse!!!!)

 

i have seen some of the 4 speed trannies (L4N71b) that came with the single cam RB Turbo engines>>>bell housing RPE#1

 

and worst of all....the above mentioned trannies all come with different pump configurations.....drilling out of the necessary oil passages for the lock up function may be necessary if using the lock up function....but in some cases...the gears from within the oil pump can be swapped without any drilling...

 

i hope this will be helpful....

 

 

Adding info. for future searchers.

 

The best way is to use a 4n71b that was originally in a z31 turbo because it is indeed stronger than the maxima iteration having more friction plates/discs.

 

Use the maxima L24e bellhousing, flywheel, and convertor on it and it will fit.

 

The caveat is that you will have to find a very early z31 turbo automatic tranny (L4n71b instead of (E4n71b).

 

The E version uses a tranny control module but I haven't tried it with the L engine management system/sensors.......etc.

 

If the control module doesn't see what it wants to see, you won't get overdrive and possibly lock-up.

 

The L4n71b doesn't need a control unit.

 

Another possible problem is that the 4n71b from a maxima has a very low stall speed which won't allow you to launch with any boost.....it will come in about 60 feet from the start.

 

If the convertor from the z31 version has the same dimensions.......you can use it to gain enough stall speed to make a huge difference in acceleration.

 

If you're going turbo, use the turbo modulator from either a 280zx turbo or z31 turbo as well as the small rod that it acts on since there are different lengths.

 

One other possible problem is the downshift switch on the gas pedal.

 

With a turbo, it is easily possible to get the car going fast enough in 4th with lockup at part throttle such that stepping further and engaging the kick-down switch will cause the car to go to 3rd.

 

If you're going fast enough, you could possibly overrev the engine by a large margin when it kicks down from 4th to 3rd.........pretty harsh when you're going over 120 and it downshifts causing your engine to rev over 7200rpms coupled with the possibility you could break traction to the rear tires at that speed.

 

I rig a switch on the dash inline with the downshift switch on all my 4n71b trannies behind a strong motor.

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