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Fired the TT350 for the first time


dr_hunt

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A buddy of mine did take a video on his camera, as soon as we find out how to upload that I will.

 

The flames out the turbo manifold were truly awesome since it was at night. Today I'm putting the turbo's back on and I have an oil leak on one of the drainback tubes, other than that is should be ready to go here pretty quick.

 

I ended up buying a new MSD box and the other one came back yesterday, so now I have two good boxes. I had issues with the edelbrock scorpion intake leaking water at the left front corner of the intake and it wasn't sealing around the ports of the AFR 227 heads, so I ended up buying a used victor jr and performing all the modifications to it and slapped it on last night late. It's amazing, with the new intake and msd box it fired instantly and ran like a top.

 

Carb is way rich right now, so I may pull the front bowl and drop the jets until I get the wideband hooked up.

 

It sounds like the '33 dodge motor. Ahh, the cackle of a roller cam!

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Hanns, didn't you block off the power valve. I'm having trouble right now with that. No vacuum, like 4 inches at idle, runs pig rich, fouls the plugs.

 

Waiting for a powervalve plug and some new spark plugs.

 

Starter took a dump too, Autozone lifetime warranty, it'll be in tomorrow, but I have to work the rest of the week. :-(

 

Practicing with the new TIG, love that, and finishing up all the little odds and ends.

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Hanns, didn't you block off the power valve. I'm having trouble right now with that. No vacuum, like 4 inches at idle, runs pig rich, fouls the plugs.

 

Doc,

I drilled 3/32" holes in the carb throttle blades to increase airflow at idle. This allows throttle plates to remain properly positioned in relation to the transfer slot.

 

On the street The carb has 76 primary jets and 95 secondaries with a 6.5 Power Valve, primary only.

Racing is 79/95 and no PV's.

 

Vacuum is 12 hg, so I'm surprised it's so low for you with similar camshaft.

 

You'll figure it out, keep at it!!!

Hanns

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Doc,

I drilled 3/32" holes in the carb throttle blades to increase airflow at idle. This allows throttle plates to remain properly positioned in relation to the transfer slot.

 

On the street The carb has 76 primary jets and 95 secondaries with a 6.5 Power Valve, primary only.

Racing is 79/95 and no PV's.

 

Vacuum is 12 hg, so I'm surprised it's so low for you with similar camshaft.

 

You'll figure it out, keep at it!!!

Hanns

 

 

I got to looking at the carb, the butterflies have definately uncovered the transfer slot.

 

I'll drop the jets, drill the blades and see what happens. If all else fails, I'm going to buy a C&S aerosol billet blow through carb.

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Well, I called C&S today and talked to Roger, he's the owner, about the blow through carb setups. They have the fastest blow through carb cars in the world. A 522 cubic inch BBC making 2700HP and a 356sbc making 2000HP!

 

These guys are cutting edge IMO when it comes to carbs.

 

The problem with my carb from their experience is that Gale banks makes it so that it's pig rich so you don't blow motors and all most others do is jetting. Sound familiar, kind of like what my problem is. I talked to him about drilling a hole in the butterflies to improve off boost afr and air flow, but he says that's just a crutch for not having the fuel curve right in the first place. It'll work, but it's not optimum and affects driveability off boost.

 

Anyway, they say that just jetting the carb will get you 70% there, the metering passages in the power valve circuit will get you the other 30%. They modify the powervalve passages to increase flow as boost increases, which always keeps the AFR's perfect. They claim that the AFR will not bobble more than .5 from off boost to full boost if you log it. They are using a 0 power valve which only comes on at boost, they tailor the fuel curve in the primary side to run without boost and use the power valve to enrichen the primary side for when the carb is under boost. The secondary side is tailored to just boost. The whole carb is tailored to your engine/car/trans/converter combo.

 

Hanns, they also say the 750 is too small for any boost over 14psi and they recommend an 850 for anything over that up to about 20psi or so. They claim they can pick you up some free HP if your using a 750, you might think about giving C&S a try. Apparently at high boost levels the 750 will produce about a 2psi drop in pressure, so if you think your boosting 17 your only getting 15 into the engine. Another 2 psi might get you what you want.

 

Anyway, I bought one today, I'm tired of screwing with the gale banks modified holley since they screwed with the metering passages and have it so pig rich. I'll sell it on EBAY!

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Yeah... a lot of crappy stuff is dumped on eBay:mrgreen:

 

...I'm tired of screwing with the gale banks modified holley since they screwed with the metering passages and have it so pig rich. I'll sell it on EBAY!
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Try this.

Run the vacuum advance straight to the manifold. This will make the engine idle with 30 degrees of timing (10 initial plus 20 from the vacuum). The extra timing really increase rpms which allows the engine to run at 800rpm with the throttle blades almost completely shut. This will allow the engine to idle in a much leaner state. The exhaust smell will go away, the slots will be covered so no need to drill holes, and vacuum will increase by 3 or 4 inhg.

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Try this.

Run the vacuum advance straight to the manifold. This will make the engine idle with 30 degrees of timing (10 initial plus 20 from the vacuum). The extra timing really increase rpms which allows the engine to run at 800rpm with the throttle blades almost completely shut. This will allow the engine to idle in a much leaner state. The exhaust smell will go away, the slots will be covered so no need to drill holes, and vacuum will increase by 3 or 4 inhg.

 

Don't have any vacuum advance. 22 mechanical, 18 initial, pulling 1 degree per lb of boost to start with.

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Hanns, they also say the 750 is too small for any boost over 14psi and they recommend an 850 for anything over that up to about 20psi or so. They claim they can pick you up some free HP if your using a 750, you might think about giving C&S a try. Apparently at high boost levels the 750 will produce about a 2psi drop in pressure, so if you think your boosting 17 your only getting 15 into the engine. Another 2 psi might get you what you want.

 

Sounds interesting, I'll wait and see how it works for you.

 

Are they willing to sell the boost referenced power valve by itself or do you have to buy the carb to get it. I've called other carb builders who have the BRPV but they aren't selling just the PV.

 

The turbomustang.com guys swear by CSU and the 750 carb is recommended for big boost.

 

I also modified my Power Valve Channel Restrictor passages but it ran too rich. I agree that the butterfly holes are a crutch but it works for me.

Hanns

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Sounds interesting, I'll wait and see how it works for you.

 

Are they willing to sell the boost referenced power valve by itself or do you have to buy the carb to get it. I've called other carb builders who have the BRPV but they aren't selling just the PV.

 

The turbomustang.com guys swear by CSU and the 750 carb is recommended for big boost.

 

I also modified my Power Valve Channel Restrictor passages but it ran too rich. I agree that the butterfly holes are a crutch but it works for me.

Hanns

 

I got to thinking about your mods and suggestions and then I got to looking at the carb I have. It was obvious that gale banks had modified the carb passages and the jet sizes that you were running are way too rich for this carb. There were some other things I didn't like about the carb as well, electric choke, etc, none of which are condusive to making air flow well into a carb, even under pressure. That was echoed by Roger as well. The gale banks system is mostly a street system although this kit was "race only".

 

I was impressed by the fact that C&S carbs on engines are netting over 5hp/cu inch! That is alot more than I've ever seen on blow through carb applications.

 

750 might work fine, I know alot of people are using them, but I would think from an airflow standpoint the 850 would work a little better with less pressure drop across the venturi's. That and the fact that it would seem logical that the fuel curve would be easier to control.

 

The aerosol booster is smaller in area than a normal booster and their carbs are wet flowed vs. dry flow for most others. The throttle shafts are double o-ringed and I've always found great power with the aerosol billet design.

But at $1100 a pop, they ain't cheap, but they do come with a 30 day money back guarantee, no questions asked, so I don't see how you could go wrong. On my NA motors I picked up a couple of tenths just changing carbs from an alky 750 to an aerosol billet 900 alky.

 

So, I'll give it a try and see if I can squeeze 1000Hp out of this one. If so I'll be happy.:)

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