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250 GTO Owners Thread

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I"m still trying to collect enough Honda trunk locks to finish my project.   I need two more.  Does anyone have any extras?  (In any useable condition, the one I have has some light pitting)

 

OTOH, I was looking for alternatives, and found this:  https://www.rvsupplyparts.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=8464&gclid=CNn-n_3vqrsCFUpnOgodukUAsA

 

It doesn't use a pushrod, but maybe the seller has some or knows where to get some?

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I"m still trying to collect enough Honda trunk locks to finish my project.   I need two more.  Does anyone have any extras?  (In any useable condition, the one I have has some light pitting)

 

OTOH, I was looking for alternatives, and found this:  https://www.rvsupplyparts.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=8464&gclid=CNn-n_3vqrsCFUpnOgodukUAsA

 

It doesn't use a pushrod, but maybe the seller has some or knows where to get some?

Pictures on your almost finish project will be nice to see  :icon12:

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Higuys,

 

My body shop guy  was not of the opinion that you could NOT "glue" a iberglass body shell (the rear one) to the Datsun."  He thinks epoxy, 'glass and steel DON'T  cooperate. And would rather pop-rivet the shell on.

 

What is the current spec on the adhesive used to bond the GTO shell and such to the body?

 

Thanks, I need to catch up after all thime I needed to chase down all the little parts for this project.

Edited by TomoHawk

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I spoke to a relative who owns a prototyping company.  He's both a chemical and mechanical engineer and uses epoxies, fiberglass and carbon fiber technologies extensively.    I expressed my concern, in that I had already bonded the rear tub using short strand fiberglass filler and secured it with expanding foam only.  He assured me that by using epoxies all I would have accomplished was to spend a lot more money for the same result.  He also said that the use of expanding foam is more than adequate to insure the tub will never move.  

 

I used screws to hold the door returns in place while the filler hardened, but removed them after the expanding foam cured.   I suppose you could use rivets to do the same thing and leave them permanently if you wanted.

 

I've been driving mine for over six months now, with no issues.

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Higuys,

 

My body shop guy  was not of the opinion that you could NOT "glue" a iberglass body shell (the rear one) to the Datsun."  He thinks epoxy, 'glass and steel DON'T  cooperate. And would rather pop-rivet the shell on.

 

What is the current spec on the adhesive used to bond the GTO shell and such to the body?

 

...

 

The first sentence has a double negative but I think I know what you mean. From what I have read even using flat head bolts and large spreader washer has resulted in cracking - as the fibreglass needs to move - so I should imagine that a small surface pop rivet would probably crack the fibreglass on installation let alone during use. I know it is a hard concept to get one's head around (it worries me) but it appears from all experience that the glue is all you need and in fact is the only way to go. The glues, bondo and paints used today are extremely flexible - apparently.

 

I'm going with Sikaflex 252.

 

After 8 bloody years I expect to glue my rear panel on in the next two weeks!

 

BfO.

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Hey guys and gals have'nt posted for awhile but here is an update.   Having finished de-rusting, stripping the chassis, modifying the wheel wells, new brakes (willwood on front, 300zx on rear) ,all new fully adjustable suspension supplied by Techno Toys Tuning,  300zx 3rd member, modified axles, and Q45 rear wheel bearing carriers.mounted refinished 300zx wheels and new tires so it rolls. So now my car is off to the body shop for some body work and additional detail modifications,  prep, primer and paint.  I continue to work on the motor / trans (Nissan RB25DET with mods) so the motor can be dropped in the car when the body is done  after that it is back into my shop for remaining eng compartment work.  finish engine wiring, hoses, radiator, turbo pipes, intercooler, down pipe, exhaust system, drive-shaft, set up stand alone SDS ECU.  etc. hope to have the car running late this summer. last will be interior which will be later next year.  I had to outsource many things that I wanted to do myself but my allocated time was too dear.  but it is moving along.

Edited by Kclank

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Hi Ken.  Glad to hear there's progress.  Are you still planning on the Pantera style hatch? Love to see some pics.

Hey Wes, yes i decided on the pantera style hatch but i am mounting it a bit different.  the full hatch will be mounted solid and blended into the chassis.  i will have a smaller hinged hatch with exposed hinges and latch for routine access.  pics, other then those previously posted,  not forthcoming.  i will wait until it comes out with paint and ohhh or awww whichever ay it goes.  i have to work on the engine mods. and start planning the interior  still 2 years from completion

Edited by Kclank

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Hi! So I haven't bought a Datsun yet, but the only reason I'd be doing such would be for a 250 GTO body kit. I was wondering if you guys happened to know what kits are still being made. The article that sparked my interest was this one: http://www.carscoops.com/2007/06/ferrari-250-gto-replica-based-on-nissan.html. I'd just kinda like an idea what I'm getting into before I start an impossible journey searching for parts.

 

Thanks for any help :)

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That is a pretty old, but good article, on Chelle's car.  Unfortunately I think she sold it quite some time ago. 

 

Anyway, you can still buy the kit from John Washington over at Reaction Research.  John is a great guy so I would give him a call. 

 

 

This is good advice.  I purchase my kit from Thunder Ranch (now called Rock West Racing) at the the exact time that McBurnie was selling the company to Carrera Classics.   The kit quality was not bad, and probably normal for most good fiberglass kits.  These folks have been terrible with providing follow up support and misc parts.  It took 3 months to get my kit, complete, from them and only because I found a couple of individuals in the company that would follow up but they are not there anymore.  They say they have door latches/handle assemblies but every time i tried to purchase either they could not find a person in the company to run a credit card or even give me a complete price so I could send a cashiers check.   I believe they are trying to concentrate on providing complete or at least rolling chassis for sale and, as far as I can see, are not even pushing their kits.  Look at web site http://www.thunderranch.com/, (and draw your own conclusions.  Speed Racer showed a great picture of Chele's  completed GTO.  I almost purchased that car, as it is an outstanding piece of kit, and featured a BMW 12 cylinder engine.    There is, or was, an Australian company that also sold one but i do not know if is a domestic product or a kit purchased and resold thru a dealership.     The only two reasons I purchased from McBurnie and not John Washington, was I thought I preferred the more conventional front end and not the tilt front that John sells (my mistake in hindsight), and price.  My kit was more complete (more options as part of base kit) and cost over $500 less.  If I could do it over I would have gone with Reaction Research (J. Washington).  John still contacts me every once in a while to offer services or parts (I have availed myself of some of these offerings) and that is really appreciated.  TR does not call and sometimes does not answer.   PM me if you want to know what I really think.    Good luck in whatever you chose.  Lot's of help and support here.  Ps.  I think the TR car was in fact Joe Alphabet's original design that McBurnie purchased and modified.  Note:  I have not done any business with the business entity called Rock West Racing so I have no knowledge about the customer service they have.  My comments have been directly pointed at McBurie's company, Thunder Ranch, and Carrera Classics.

Overall building a kit car is an interesting experience and a lot of fun but keep in mind nothing good comes quickly or easily.  Have fun, have patience, enjoy, and "PLAN" for everything.

Edited by Kclank

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Ahhhh... that would be a picture of my car in my posting above and not Chelle's. 

 

I have contacted McBurnie in the past but found him to be more interested in bigger things.  Anyway, it appears that his Thunder Ranch became Custom Coachwerks and is now Rock West Racing.  I know nothing of Custom Coachwerks except the pictures they had of GTO kits that seemed to be either a model or other cars (including mine) taken off the web.  I tried to contact them but the never got back to me. 

 

The molds have gone through many hands and ended up at OM Sportscars in the UK but they seem to have gone under.   You can find a good list of the kit's history on John's Replica History web site.   http://www.reactionresearch.com/gtorr/ReplicaHistory.html 

 

I think John Washington can supply a coupe version and a non-tilt front end but you will have to check with him. 

 

The kit is a lot of work but worth it in the end so good luck. 

 

Ferrari_03.jpg

Photo6

LS Engine

Edited by SpeedRacer

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Ahhhh... that would be a picture of my car in my posting above and not Chelle's. 

 

I have contacted McBurnie in the past but found him to be more interested in bigger things.  Anyway, it appears that his Thunder Ranch became Custom Coachwerks and is now Rock West Racing.  I know nothing of Custom Coachwerks except the pictures they had of GTO kits that seemed to be either a model or other cars (including mine) taken off the web.  I tried to contact them but the never got back to me. 

 

The molds have gone through many hands and ened up at OM Sportscars in the UK but they seem to have gone under.   You can find a good list of the kit's history on John's Replica History web site.   http://www.reactionresearch.com/gtorr/ReplicaHistory.html 

 

I think John Washington can supply a coupe version and a non-tilt front end but you will have to check with him. 

 

The kit is a lot of work but worth it in the end so good luck. 

 

 

SR; Sorry about the confusion between your beautiful car and Chelle's beautiful car.  They are both outstanding examples about what can be done with the kit(s).  I think I asked about the different front end from John when I was shopping.  If memory serves JW said that he could make it fixed but the hood was a fair amount of work to make the hood separate (fitting and trimming plus any reinforcement required) and, at the time (2012), it effected cost.  I am sure you could buy John's kit, less front end and purchase the other front end offerings (if they are responding these days).   As speed racer states, JW is the guy to go to (IMHO).

Edited by Kclank

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BTW the company that sells the kit in Australia is Classic Revival  http://www.classicrevival.com.au/250gto.html 

 

I would also keep your eye on eBay as both incomplete and complete kits show up once in awhile. 

 

Ian is retiring and closing up shop at Classic Revival, The moulds have been for sale for some time but no takers. 240Z and 260Z 2-seaters are becoming very rare in this country and fetching high prices for good body shells so a GTO is no longer a cheap build - was it ever?

 

I agree with Speedracer that you are better off first searching for an incomplete or finished kit you can customise to suit yourself. Let me tell you there is plenty of work in just doing that. The trick is to ensure it has minimal rust. Failing that, then consider a scratch build. Rust elimination was the main reason I wanted to built one from scratch but it has been a long, long, long road... Too long.

 

Finally got some paint on it.

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