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250 GTO Owners Thread


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Chatz,

I built my first trunk using the scorpionz trunk kit.. I posted a thread on here long ago about how I felt, that the kit was a decent start, but that if (and when) i did it again, i'd rather go metal. Unfortunately the maker took it as me attacking him - which was not my intent. Those trunk kits were an okay option. To use my kit, I strengthened it in several ways, but in the end, I still feel, metal is a better option. The crossbar won't ever crack, the trunklid won't have any issues distorting in heat or cold, affecting fit, and everything from the hinges to the latch will be better when done.

I'll try and find my original post on this point

Thanks so much for the info. taking loads of notes from this and trying to see what will work best. I think you are right. Metal is the best way to go. I just really wanted ot get a good idea of the dimensions others were making their car trunks and rear window to. 

 

The really nice alloy surround you have made for the rear screen. How did you construct that? It looks like the real GTO? So well made. No wonder your car gets so much attention. the finish is second to none. and the Alloy frames around the head lights as well. really it all looks just like the real deal! 

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Very very impressive. Congratulations.

Found these two at a local consignment dealer.             http://www.specialtysales.com/vehicles/11090             http://www.specialtysales.com/vehicles/11089  

Boranni got their modern (hub) design from Dayton...  You might say Boranni and Dayton wheels are essentially the same, because the only real difference is where the spoke go through the rim.

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Higuys,

I'm just wondering, but does anyone know of a scan of an owner's manual, in any language?  Or any other relevant literature, like an original advertisement, sales brochure, etc.  Anything GTO related?  Not anything related to the conversion.  It would make a splendid display, assuming no one stole it! :P

 

 For starters, I'll submit this link for your enjoyment:   http://www.unevoiture.com/manuals/ferrari/250

Edited by TomoHawk
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  • 2 weeks later...

Little question for all you knowledgable folk out there. I came across an old/vintage Nardi steering wheel in the stores the other day (pictures added) it looks very much like the Ferrari steering wheels from the 60's (apart from having a Nardi push horn button) The wood rim is in need of being taken to a specialist and completely redoing.


 


Question is are they worth restoring? 


 


It would be expensive to have restored so i will only look into it if it is worth it? 


 


Please let me know your thoughts guys. 


 


IMG_6608_zpsvhc9ogbz.jpgIMG_6609_zpszjdqqrvc.jpgIMG_6610_zpsn3wyofsr.jpgIMG_6611_zps4jtqvm7v.jpg


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Probably the most worked Datsun-based replica in Australia is for sale.


 


Sudden, very serious, ill-health has forced Alex (non-member) to offer for sale his pride and joy. I could go on and on about the work on this car but you need to be a serious GTO enthusiast to understand all the nuances associated with the modifications.


 


The car is fitted with a BMW V12 engine and is registered in Qld. For any Aussies interested, the car is located in South-East Qld and Alex can give further details to, and arrange an inspection for, interested potential buyers.


 


PM me for Alex's details, but please, seriously interested buyers only.


 


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Edited by Boy from Oz
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Probably the most worked Datsun-based replica in Australia is for sale.

 

Sudden, very serious, ill-health has forced Alex (non-member) to offer for sale his pride and joy. I could go on and on about the work on this car but you need to be a serious GTO enthusiast to understand all the nuances associated with the modifications.

 

The car is fitted with a BMW V12 engine and is registered in Qld. For any Aussies interested, the car is located in South-East Qld and Alex can give further details to, and arrange an inspection for, interested potential buyers.

 

PM me for Alex's details, but please, seriously interested buyers only.

 

AV%2017_zpsk13he5j2.jpg

 

AV%2016_zpsbqvac1su.jpg

 

AV%2019_zps3iwflz57.jpg

 

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What sort of money is he after for the car? I have quite a wealthy friend and when i showed him my GTO you could start to see the cogs turning. I thing he has been on the lookout for one. But I just dont have the faintest idea of how much money these replicas can go for in finished condition?

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Higuys,

 

I'm having a hard time trying to come up with an accurate graphic for the Boranni logo with the  directional arrow, so I can get the knock offs engraved.  Does anyone have a graphic they can offer?  I have the hand graphic and the rays with the letting done using MS PowerPoint, but  there is no way to come up wi the curved arrow that has the right kind of  'fletching.' 

 

Here is what I have so far:

post-309-0-85725900-1477736218_thumb.png

 

 

My condolences and sympathies go to Alex in this time of difficulty.  My car is really fun or a pleasure to drive, even with my finely tuned L28, and I can relate to his dilemmma. :(

 

BUut...  I think all the gawkers finally stopped bugging me with "is this a real one?", so  the real admirer's can have a voice :D

Edited by TomoHawk
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I wouldn't put in an 8 cylinder engine unless it was a 3L one.  I.E., this car isn't meant for big bores.  Unfortunately, the smallest V-8 I know of is a 221 C.I.D. or 3.7L, and I don't have any old Italian "uncles that  know how to cast engines in aluminium. :)

 

AFAICT, there are still some things that haven't been discussed and detailed/defined.  In particular, the headlamp rings, and the knock-offs.I'll be working on those this winter.  I'd just like to know why I'm not getting my reply notifications!

Edited by TomoHawk
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OK, you can add to the list of little bits, a set of plugs for the jack holes.   When I was researching these or how to make some, I read that some people  chose to use the round, chromed  plugs you put in the hole where your facet  used to be (a sink hole cover.)

 

The jack hole cover:

post-309-0-35408800-1478219177_thumb.jpg

Edited by TomoHawk
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Wow! There doesn't appear to be much in the way of comments in the past 10 years but I do have an original Alpha GTO molded in 1989 which I have owned since then. It is currently being rewired, re-powered and has new paint.

Escaladess

Welcome escaladess.  59 pages of comments with maybe 8-10 on a page isn't too bad.  Anyway, that is a good looking Alpha 1 GTO you have.  There are a few of us here that can help if you have questions. 

 

BTW, a small block Chevy (like the one you already have in your car) is an excellent choice to install in a Z car.  I am sure by now you know there is a conversion manual "Jags That Run" http://www.jagsthatrun.com/ for reference.  Using the JTR setback installation with aluminum heads, intake, water pump, headers, etc. the engine will weigh no more then the stock Datsun inline 6.  Plus it will all sit behind the front axle and lower in the car.  The engine weight will now be all be behind the front axle and lower because it is a V type engine.  The weight distribution will go from a stock 52% front 48% rear to the highly desired 50%-50% front, rear distribution.  It will also lower the center of gravity thereby improving on an already great handling car.  AND, then of course there is the additional horsepower!!!  LOTS of it!!!!!

 

Good luck with your car. 

 

Ferrari_32

,

SBC

Edited by SpeedRacer
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Thanks for the comments SpeedRacer. I have admired your GTO for several years and I have also been trying to find the Vehicle Improvement Products of Scottsdale Az. valve covers you have for over 10 years. I have carried photos and descriptions to every Good Guys show and swap meet up and down the east coast to no avail. I did see a set 15-16 years ago when I still had a 6 cyl. and should have bought them. I currently have a fast burn ZZ4 with T56 ( .50% sixth ) transmission and Nissan Armada center section. I have used the JTR mounting system in all three of my Z's which puts the T56 shifter perfectly in the center of the factory opening. During the rebuild I installed fully adjustable; coil overs, shocks, camber plates, Wilwood brakes and a Miata power rack. The rack required removing the motor mounts from the crossmember so I fabricated mounts from the frame rails which let the motor sit lower once I found a smaller aftermarket balancer. I liked the idea of a 3X2 intake but have not been able to source a low rise unit for a ZZ4. I molded a new GTO style dash with hidden radio and AC controls and the painless wiring is almost complete. Since the Wilwood brakes are mustang 5 lug I will have to order new Daytons unless someone has a better suggestion. I am hoping the finished product will be ready by Christmas.

Escaladess

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Give some thought to modifying other alloy covers which are available.

 

I had planned to build up a centre strip by running a series of welds the length of the cover and then engraving the Ferrari name and ribs. I discovered the covers I purchased (for an LS1) were 6mm thick so there was no need to add weld material.

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I am working on the smaller items right now. The current item is the covers for the jack holes, or "sill hole covers" (1st & 2nd photos.)  They remind me of the knob on a stove control panel.  There are many options you could choose.  Some people have chosen to  use ordinary covers used on your kitchen sink (3rd & 4th photo) but (3rd photo- my selection, but a solid top.)  Maybe someone here might have a mold &mini-foundry to make up sand-cast aluminium slugs that could be finished  by ourselves (First photo. You could even use a cheap plastic hole cover Please review the attached photos.

 

post-309-0-91115100-1478622291_thumb.jpg                 post-309-0-03556800-1478622302_thumb.jpg

 

post-309-0-67261500-1478624422_thumb.jpg                 post-309-0-20899900-1478629394_thumb.jpg

 

post-309-0-13404700-1478629763_thumb.jpg

 

Edited by TomoHawk
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Thanks for the comments SpeedRacer. I have admired your GTO for several years and I have also been trying to find the Vehicle Improvement Products of Scottsdale Az. valve covers you have for over 10 years. I have carried photos and descriptions to every Good Guys show and swap meet up and down the east coast to no avail. I did see a set 15-16 years ago when I still had a 6 cyl. and should have bought them. I currently have a fast burn ZZ4 with T56 ( .50% sixth ) transmission and Nissan Armada center section. I have used the JTR mounting system in all three of my Z's which puts the T56 shifter perfectly in the center of the factory opening. During the rebuild I installed fully adjustable; coil overs, shocks, camber plates, Wilwood brakes and a Miata power rack. The rack required removing the motor mounts from the crossmember so I fabricated mounts from the frame rails which let the motor sit lower once I found a smaller aftermarket balancer. I liked the idea of a 3X2 intake but have not been able to source a low rise unit for a ZZ4. I molded a new GTO style dash with hidden radio and AC controls and the painless wiring is almost complete. Since the Wilwood brakes are mustang 5 lug I will have to order new Daytons unless someone has a better suggestion. I am hoping the finished product will be ready by Christmas.

Escaladess

Thank you for the nice comments about my car as well.  Yeah, I wish I had bought more of those valve covers as I think I could have made a bunch of money keeping them for a few years and the selling them.  You would not believe how many people have asked me about them! 

 

I think the Fast Burn ZZ4 is a sweet motor and with almost 400HP coupled to a T56 it should be a really fast ride.  I might be wrong but I thought the aluminum heads on the ZZ4 would accept the single plane Offenhauser 3X2 tri-power manifold I have.  I got mine from Hot Rod Carbs  but you could also try Vintage Speed  http://vintagespeed.com/  and see what they can come up with.  

 

Did you check with Dayton on the wheels because you should only need new hubs to fit the five lugs and not have to buy all new wheels.  Just a thought, but maybe you could just get the existing hubs re-drilled if there is enough spacing. 

 

I noticed the camber plates and wondered if you had gone with coil overs.  BTW, I didn't and wish I had.  The reason I mentioned the Jags That Run book was what looked like motor mounts attached to the frame rails but now I understand why. 

 

Again, good luck and please keep the pictures coming. 

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That's the good thing about the Dayton wheels;  you can use them on any vehicle and just change the threaded hubs. 

 

BTW-  I did some comparing of my 225-65/15 tires, and they are the same size as the what you get on the 250, but some people  (original GTO owners) changed to a 16-inch wheel, or a wider wheel (7 inch) or tire.  Some people ("experts") are probably going to tell me I "should have used" a wider tire, but I used the spec tire, and I never listen to them anyway-  they probably watch too much PC TV or look at muscle cars.

Edited by TomoHawk
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The bad thing about Dayton Wheels is that they have (had?) appalling quality control.

 

I purchased my Daytons some years ago as I believe wheels are critical to getting the right 'look'. I built the fender shapes and the suspension around the wheels.

 

When I finally got to run the car I had a bad knocking sound in the rear which I eventually traced to the Willwoods - but that's another story. In the process of researching the knock I discovered the spoke heads which attached to the Dayton centre hub were too big, or the centre was not drilled deep enough for the spoke heads. Either way the heads protruded above the taper seating surface. As a result the caps only engaged on a small area of the spoke head rather than the broader taper surface, further, this resulted in a deep groove being gouged in the caps when the caps were tightened.

 

I had to use a die grinder to trim down the excess material. Compare the 1st and last photos to see different seating.

 

When I raised this with Dayton they simply said the wheels were out of warranty, although they were hardy used. 

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Edited by Boy from Oz
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  • 2 weeks later...

Speaking of the Dayton wheels, the wheel nut/spinner is plain without any engraving; like a Boranni logo & removal-arrow. Has anyone managed to  do any engraving (I think they were stamped before being chrome-plated) or anything else?

 

 Instead of grinding the chrome off, then engraving, and re-chroming the nut, I was thinking of other means to duplicate the effect.  One idea was to have some medallions or "coins" made with the graphic (two different graphics are needed because the arrow is reversed on one side) and then glue the things to the nut.  Perhaps a trophy shop could do that?  I know the Dayton nut/spinner has a  removal arrow on it already, so you'll at least need the Boranni logo (the open hand with rays of light.)    I still need to get the graphic right, because the curved arrow with a fancy tail is not standard to most graphic design softwares.

 

I think what I would do is to have the design put on an aluminium "coin" or disc and glue the disc to the wheel nut/spinner.  It's just too much trouble to de-chrome, engrave, and re-chrome the thing.

 

What do you think of this design?  I put together a few shapes using MS PowerPoint:

 

post-309-0-83710300-1479778506_thumb.png

 

New wheels!

 

post-309-0-34962800-1479694455_thumb.jpg

Edited by TomoHawk
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