VinhZXT Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 I think you had it reversed. I got 325 front and 250 rear. Yeah I will use the angle iron piece as a guide before welding. For cutting if you don't have the chop saw I would use a hose clamp as a guide for cutting. Then grind grind and grind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rztmartini Posted November 3, 2006 Author Share Posted November 3, 2006 how come everyone forks out the good ideas AFTER i do it all? lol. i never even considered using a pipe cutter or angle iron...i guess im not the engineer i believed myself to be lol. I thought i had read that people were using the softer rates in from and the stiffer rates in rear, i dont have a big V8 either, maybe that makes a difference what rates to use... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Different strokes for different folks. My car still felt like it understeered when I ran 200/250, I can only imagine the horrendous understeer I would have had with 325/250, but again, it's a cumulative effect of everything on the car, and your's could handle a lot different than mine with those spring rates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Different strokes for different folks. My car still felt like it understeered when I ran 200/250, I can only imagine the horrendous understeer I would have had with 325/250, but again, it's a cumulative effect of everything on the car, and your's could handle a lot different than mine with those spring rates. Sometimes too soft will make it understeer. My rule of thumb, and I seem to be all thumbs , is that if you make two steps in the direction that should have a certain outcome (like less understeer) and you don't get your desired result then go the other way. I know this seems obvious but I've watched really smart people chase their tails as the keep going softer and softer and it works worse and worse. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 In my case I started with 250/250 and that was bad, went to 200/250 and that was less bad. I hear what you're saying though. I added a thicker front swaybar to my Toyota P/U and the understeer decreased, presumably because the camber didn't change so much due to body roll. Then it decreased again when I added a rear bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 i guess im not the engineer If you were you'd still be analyzing all your options and trying to consider if the changes would be safe. Then you'd probably have used a metal lathe to cut the struts, applied a specific bevel to the strut tubes, created an overly elaborate jig to hold things, had then welded using a process known have ever heard of, etc. Sometimes all you need are simple blacksmith skills Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rztmartini Posted November 8, 2006 Author Share Posted November 8, 2006 i thought i had welded the strut tubes together straight, but was a little off, so i tightened down the gland nut and gave the strut tube a whack and it centered itself! imagine that an another note: they guys (and gals) over at techno toy tuning are making many suspention parts, normally just for the AE86 guys, but i checked them out and they have stuff for the Z cars. thier weld in camber plates go for $170/pair, cheaper than the AZC plates ($99/corner). i have neither so i cant comment on quality. I might pick up a set for my rears... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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