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someone PLEASE convince me to stay L6!!!


OlderThanMe

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I am looking at my Z sitting in the garage and I am not rushed to get it running since I now have this red Frontier XE-V6 as a daily driver.

 

I am looking at a few choices for a motor going into my Z.

 

1. Stay L6 but go turbonic.

The good: I have an L26 motor which as valve reliefs cut into the block.

 

The bad: Valve reliefs in the block means no O-ringing the block unless I do a wire off-round ring idea or something.

F54 blocks are pretty hard to find around here.

2. SR20DET

The bad: Expensive to get and I don't have any stuff for this motor

 

The Good: Light weight, good aftermarket support, can make big power with motor work

 

3. Nissan V6 of some type: expensive, short length, HUGE power potential.

4. V8...not really attractive to me

5: other, make suggestion.

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Olderthanyou,

 

There is no right or wrong answer.

 

If there's something that tickles you, use it.

 

If you want to get into the nitty-gritty of each, search.

 

Another way to look at it... In about 5 years I'm going to start a forum called "NonHybridZ". 8 people will subscribe.

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OTM, why would we want to do a thing like that? And when you say "turbonic", do you really mean "turbonique?" If you aren't familiar with the wonderful world of semi-monopropellent turbine powered differentials, then you need to look at this:http://www.almar.easynet.be/turbonique.htm

ragtop_oval_run.jpeg

black_widow_jet_plant.jpeg

Now THAT would make for a decent hybridz.

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veritech...it was a term used in a now closed forum on here...by BRAAP describing an SR20...aye sonny...

Ron Tyler: Actually if you go to Z***.com you will get that. I signed up there just to post about my aluminum dashboards and the first post on that thread was bashing me for wanting to possibly wanting to change the "work of art" dashboard that a Z already has...I said to the effect of "how does a cracked up piece of plastic and foam pass as a piece of art?"

Thread got deleted in 24 hours when they probably found out that I am a HybridZ member.

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Guest 280ZForce

maybe a couple of vids of some turbo L-series or some built up n/a L-series...???

 

I don't have any driving vids of the current setup...but I did make a couple revving vids last week from the back and the front...let me know if you think that could possibly be a remedy?

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I would say go turbo and use what your pocket allows, you could always go SR after you have graduated, and get that great job.

 

I look at it this way, think of what you want, how you want it to perform and go from there.

 

Either way you will end up spending money.

 

Its all about what you want. I love the L6 turbo, but thats my cup of tea. Then again, I could really see a nice supercharged or turbo V8 there as well.

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maybe a couple of vids of some turbo L-series or some built up n/a L-series...???

 

I don't have any driving vids of the current setup...but I did make a couple revving vids last week from the back and the front...let me know if you think that could possibly be a remedy?

 

your car keeps me motivated everytime i see hear that in car drive in preteen psi ...post some vids when u get that monster tuned!

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Guest 280ZForce

i'll have to get some driving vids of it...but i've been able to hit 18 psi safely now as far as afr go. Just gotta get my block deck leveled out.

 

But here is a pic of my engine bay and those revving vids I was talking about...

 

Click to enlarge...

th_IMG_1172.jpg

 

Click link to play...

Rev From Back

 

Rev From Front

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Well to help you with the title of this thread, why put an engine with less displacement and cylinders than what it originally came with? If you really want to stay L6 and have a more modern engine and good foundation to build on look into the RB's or Toyota 1JZ.

 

You have to really know what your trying to go for overall in your car.

From what it seems, your trying to build a weekend car/track car. With a RBDET or 1JZ just left bone stock in Z, I think would be plenty to have fun at any racetrack. But if stock engine is not for you and want to get dirty, build an "L" engine.

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I figure I can spend about 3k on a longblock and then another 2k for turbo stuff. I was putting some numbers together the other day and I can build a L6 for $2400 plus the turbo stuff and be good to make 400+ horsepower. I saw garrett's dyno vid and made me think...how much power do I want to make? Even if I built a turbo motor and drove it for a while on Sus and my current exhaust and when I have the cash I can go tubo.

 

Big thing: I want something high revving, to use a consective turbocharger system that I'll build, and be able to make decent gas mileage on highway trips. If I build a high compression N/A motor I'll never get acceptable gas mileage.

 

Those Toyota 1jz and 2jz motors look nice and can make insane amounts of power. I don't know how much they cost but I am guessing more than an imported SR20.

Lets just say my budget for the drivetrain is $5k and if it is a different engine I need the tranny too. I would also like to be able to make 300hp with the ability to go bigger.

I'll probably cut and notch the firewall so scoot an engine back since I need to cut out part of the firewall anyway.

I can probably make 3k this summer unless there is a Z car shop out there that needs someone to TIG up some cylinder heads...that would be better so that I could use my Diploma in welding technology...

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Lets just say my budget for the drivetrain is $5k and if it is a different engine I need the tranny too. I would also like to be able to make 300hp with the ability to go bigger.

 

You just described an LS1 right there, Too bad you dont want to go V8...

Someone close to him take him for a ride,He might change he's mind!!!!

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I just got a quote from the nissan dealership for an imported, rebuilt, redtop SR20DET with a manual tranny and all wiring and ECU and it is all about $2800. Then another $700-$800 for a vildini cradle and a custom driveshaft. That gets me a good~250 hp motor for $3500 and then with $1500 of upgrades I could be into the 400+ hp range.

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OTM, that really sounds like the expensive route to 400hp...you're going to do what you're going to do, of course, but if HP per dollar is a factor, there are a lot cheaper (both initially and in long term maintenance costs) ways to do it. And if Pretty Points per Dollar is a factor, there aren't many ways that are cooler than a turbonique differential, in either 500hp or 1000hp increments.

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