rudypoochris Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 I have to rebuild the steering shaft on my 72 240z. The Ford 302 headers don't clear by about 1/2". I was wondering a couple of things: -Does anyone happened to know the diameter and the spline count off the top of their head for the datsun steering shaft at the coupler and the rack end? -Does anyone who has already done this have a list of the part numbers they used and an approximate cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 I saw this somewhere but I don't have time to search for the thread(s). Have you tried searching? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted November 1, 2006 Author Share Posted November 1, 2006 I saw this somewhere but I don't have time to search for the thread(s). Have you tried searching? Yes I did, I could not find spline coutns anywhere and very little on the steering relocation. I will try more terms I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSHER Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 Have you talked to people who have a simular swap and asked what headers they used? If you think you can do a cheaper steering reroute versus new headers then go for it. Seems like a headache if a different set of headers would work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted November 1, 2006 Author Share Posted November 1, 2006 Have you talked to people who have a simular swap and asked what headers they used? If you think you can do a cheaper steering reroute versus new headers then go for it. Seems like a headache if a different set of headers would work. I agree, but I just bought these headers that did fit on another Ford 302 swap. My mount has been modified and such so that the engine sits really low and back. I am going to relocate the shaft, was just wondering if anyone else had any tips or part numbers to make it easier. Looking at the parts availability though, it seems like it won't be too hard once I get the spline count. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Jim Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 Did you use the same Summit brand headers I have on my car?If so your motor must sit lower than mine. To relocate the steering shaft I think the shaft is cut and the u joint welded to the shaft so it doesn't matter what the spline count is only the diameter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted November 1, 2006 Author Share Posted November 1, 2006 Did you use the same Summit brand headers I have on my car?If so your motor must sit lower than mine. To relocate the steering shaft I think the shaft is cut and the u joint welded to the shaft so it doesn't matter what the spline count is only the diameter. Yes I did use the same headers, the engine sits a bit lower. The funny thing is that I am pretty sure the stock starter fits in. That is a good point but I am pretty sure I can do it with out cutting and welding since there is widely available splined shaft in various lengths, and I don't have anything to weld it back with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJ 280z Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 i don't have a v8 swap but my mount caused me to extend my steering shaft. i took the shaft off a 280zx with power steering and modded it by using the ujoint and shaft and held it in place with a heim joint from the local 4 wheel parts store, i got a pic or 2 in my album, check it out........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 That is a good point but I am pretty sure I can do it with out cutting and welding since there is widely available splined shaft in various lengths, and I don't have anything to weld it back with. zcarnut posted the spline count in a fairly recent post but I can't find it. You might try a more detailed search on his posts or PM him to know for sure. If I remember correctly the spline arrangement on the 280 steering gear is unique and no longer available. Cut and splice might be your only option. I am sure you can find a local garage or welding shop that will do it for a few sawbucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted December 1, 2006 Share Posted December 1, 2006 S-30 240Z has 28 spline 0.590 dia. shaft.. this is very close to 19/32" or 0.5937.. I have not found replacement joints yet... but I thought I would stick this in here... I called Borgenson... they have a 15mm 29 spline joint that fits Nissans and Toyota Landcruisers... unfortunately we need 28 splines... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted December 1, 2006 Author Share Posted December 1, 2006 S-30 240Z has 28 spline 0.590 dia. shaft.. this is very close to 19/32" or 0.5937.. I have not found replacement joints yet... but I thought I would stick this in here... Thanks! Solved this a while ago now. What I ordered was a 5/8" smooth to 5/8" smooth sealed U-joint from pitstopusa.com (#SWE401-50808). I am going to have the original steering shaft (in blue) cut and have new shaft (in orange) welded to the old shaft to make the approximate lengths shown above. Then the shaft ends will be welded into the U-Joint. The system will be supported by one rod end (McMaster P/N 3798K32) with an MDS-Nylon Filled bearing (MC P/N 6294K8) inserted, and fastened/glued in to the rod end. These nylon lock washers (MC P/N 90566A240) will be used in conjunction with washers (MC P/N 96659A112) the rod end will go straight through the frame rail.... provided there is nothing interfering underneath. Wish me luck, I shall post the results/modifications when done. NOTE: The rod end is meant for heavy duty lifting and such, because of this it is really large and heavy, not really an optimal setup, but it was cheap and the alternative lighter weight version seemed to be a custom piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted December 1, 2006 Share Posted December 1, 2006 How are you going to attach a newer style joint to the rack input-stub...?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted December 1, 2006 Share Posted December 1, 2006 I assume you have read the Borgenson's tech info page Especially their warning on welding. Wonder how hard it would be to grind double D ends on the cut shaft. Also Summit racing carries rod ends specifically designed for supporting steering shafts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted December 2, 2006 Author Share Posted December 2, 2006 I assume you have read the Borgenson's tech info page Especially their warning on welding. Wonder how hard it would be to grind double D ends on the cut shaft. Also Summit racing carries rod ends specifically designed for supporting steering shafts. Thanks for the tip on welding, I did not know that. I suspect it should be okay though. The U-Joint has no provision for a screw to hold the shaft in. I think it was meant to be welded, I shall check on the sources website, it is not a Borgenson unit. I know and that piece costs $45 if you want it in 6" length. I ordered one anyway and it kept getting back ordered for about a month. Finally I canceled it and just went the mcmaster route and got this setup for much cheaper. No doubt it is not as professional looking and most likely heavier. The rack imput stub joint is the same. The blue shaft is the OEM steering shaft simply cut. There was no slack in the joint at the firewall or the rack so I decided to just leave it be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 This still leaves the problem with matching any new U-joint to the rack pinion... 28 spline 15mm... not gonna happen... unless you make it yourself... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 This still leaves the problem with matching any new U-joint to the rack pinion... 28 spline 15mm... not gonna happen... unless you make it yourself... I think he is keeping the stock splined U joint on the rack and just splicing in a new U joint in the middle of the OEM shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 Which leaves this "rebuilding" thing still up in the air... There is a way... we have not found it yet... yet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted December 2, 2006 Author Share Posted December 2, 2006 If it needs to be changed out, eventually I would probably just end up sourcing a U-Joint about the right size and welding to it. Or cut the splined part off of the original U-Joint to weld to a new one, but that gets tricky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 Which leaves this "rebuilding" thing still up in the air... There is a way... we have not found it yet... yet... Sort of makes me want to grab up every decent steering shaft I come across at the pick and pull..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted December 3, 2006 Author Share Posted December 3, 2006 Is there anyway to tell if it needs rebuilding? My U-Jpint has no play so I assumed it was good, is this not the case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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