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zxt cv shaft conversion on R200 rear shaft length problems


briann510

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Im now running a 4.38 R200.

 

In this setup the fat spacer in the carrier itself is moved to the opposite side so the longer cv shaft diff stub now goes on the left side (which also happens to be a longer shaft by .50" extended, but only .25 compressed) as opposed to the usual right side having the "longer" axle.

 

The possible problem is.....the left and right cv shafts have respected short and a long center sections (.50" difference expanded but only .25" compressed) and in most cases cv shafts are to be fit for the long section to be on right side because diff is offset away from that side and left side likes the shorter center section and everything is peachy (did that make sense? LOL)

 

So the shaft that goes on the left now is a nout 1/2" to 3/4" too long.

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I thought I'd never see this identical problem that I faced with a Gleason-Torsen type carrier that I installed a few years ago.

 

What I found I had to do was swap the end (inner CV) from one shaft to the other. This was the only way it was going to fit correctly and allow a small amount of longitudinal movement of the axle shaft. The unfortunate thing with this is that this is the CV boot that has the metal ring on it, and this is a "bear" to replace, and do it well.

 

The crying shame in all of this is that over the years, I never saw another person experience this issue, so a couple of months ago, I threw away the set of half-shafts that I modded for this (they were not usable by any "normal" R200 set-up) being I moved the differential 1" to the driver's side, and put the 930 joints in.

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Well what garbage dump are those modded ones in? LOL

 

Im in the process now of attempting to swap the diff stub sides, but that inner pressed in boot is a real bear and it looks like its all pressed fit without using a small metal band like the other sides and boot uses.

 

So did you end up swapping the diff stubs on the zxt axles then? How is that inner boot secured on the one end without one of the usual metal bands most boots use? is it pressed in there and did it seperate on that edge?

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On mine, the boot"s metal band is formed around the metal housing of the CV joint. This requires carefully cutting the band along its circumference. Reassembly consisted of (in my case) sufficiently fixing the assembly so that the edge of the new boot's band can be hammered or formed around the CV housing's metal edge (or lip). It was combersome, and in my first attempt, envolved damaging the rubber boot in the process. I imagine that a properly supplied shop would have some kind of roller that could do this very easily, but I did not have any shop like that in this area. In the end, I supported the assembly in a press (carefully positioned with a bearing puller, so as to not pinch the rubber boot material) and lightly hammered the edge of the metal band in place, which took may trips around the band in order to do this without distorting or stretching the metal band excessively. Fortunately, I bought a couple of these boots, so the first one was not a deal-ender.

Both CV joints are held in place by either a snap ring, or the peening of the splines at the end of the axle shaft.

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Awww cmon Tony., you know your my fav guy when it comes to techy Datsun stuff and you always have the right answers!

 

I found a dang Chilton book that showed exactly how to get the shaft inner end/boot (what a fugged up design on that inner boot end) apart and all the detail on rebuilding and how to swap inner ends in my garage. Sometimes ol Chilton comes through.

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Well if I had known before hand what was going to transpire, I would have done a completely different type cv conversion with shafts that were easier to modify. Unfortunatly I bought all the stuff over a year ago before I really knew alot about the different options and hadnt planned to switch away from 3.90 gears to 4.38's. We will get it in and my son will be happy with it!

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Funny you ask because as I was writing my last post, I was trying to visualize what exactly kept the inner CV components together, and the only thing I could think of was the boot itself. This seems to me to make sense as I believe it was odd that I could not inspect the inner CV for abnormal wear unless I destroyed the boot in the process. The outer boot can be removed and re-iinstalled, but not so with the inner.

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Brian,

I am having the same problem and my half shaft is binding and making clunking sound. To make thing worst in my case at this point is I still have the stock springs in there and my car is sitting very high. This caused the half shafts sitting at almost full droop positions. If I lower the car some it will help a little bit but I still have concerns. So I am thinking of using 2 shorter 280ZXT CV shafts. Yes I know the input shaft won't get locked by the circlip ring but I don't think I don't have to worry about the input shaft sliding out on this set up since the shafts are compressed almost all the way at full droop.

 

Please post some pictures of the input shaft apart. I would like to have a look before I disassemble mine for an experiment. Thanks

 

Terry,

Do you have any picture of the inner joint when you remove it? If you can swap out the input shaft then why not putting 2 shorter sections for both shaft in. Also do you know anyone sell these same center sections but shorter?

Vinh

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Im not sure if id just slide the diff stub in without locking it in place, but its a great idea, and now im considering that. It could move around enough the side seal might leak but i doubt it, also the inner cv partmight rub on the carrier outer seal race area if it pushes in too far and make alot of noise. Ive thought of many work arounds on my problem, but either they arent safe or cost way too much money. This cv conversion was suppose to be an inexpensive 1 hour job. Its turned into a massive headache.

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Brian,

Take your time don't give up just yet. I am sure we can figure something out. I have 2 sets of CV half shafts so I will attempt to rebuild them with shorter center shafts. I need to collect more info. Can you send me some pictures of the shafts with everything apart? Thanks

Vinh

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Hi Vinh,

 

Ok, heres what we have so far and one is pretty much apart cept for that boot band which we now know is integrated into the rubber inner boot. The band itself still needs to be cut away and you can see how it is pressed kinda under the outer metal main piece and I think the cut is made right along that groove and then that piece is pried out so the tripod slides out. im waiting for an email from someone that has cut his and will edit this when I know for sure.

Oh, my wife just got on my case cause I got lube all over her 20% off coupon under the shaft..LOL

 

PB090015.jpg

PB090014.jpg

PB090013.jpg

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Ahhh, I think I see something here that I may have overlooked when I did this job. It appears that there is a metal lip restricting the tulip from pulling all the way out of the grooves. This lip is part of the metal piece formed over the band in the center of this CV joint. I did not recognize this when I did this work because I cut the metal band along it's circumference. As a result, it did not interfere with my disassembly. In the case of the above photo, you still have this lip in the way, so the band still must be split.

standard.jpg

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And here we have the metal band cut down the middle with a dremel cutting wheel, very easy, but make sure NOT to cut near the rubber o-ring on the one side or it will mess up the groove for the new o-ring to seal.... we have success!

 

Alto not quite the easy solution I was hoping for in swapping the stub splines around, and so far I have been unable to find anyone that stock or can get the replacement integrated boot/band piece. And I cant imagine hat a PITA it would be to seal and correctly secrure a new band on as it looks like its done with a speacial machine that probably doesnt exist anymore.

 

PB090016.jpg

PB090017.jpg

PB090018.jpg

New boot and band

innerboot.jpg

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Nice pictures. Sure makes it clear on what needs to be cut to remove the boot. It isn't fun crimping the new boot on. I ended up using a drivers side splined axle on the passenger side 280ZXT CV assembly due to the shorter length. Works good with no bindng on either side.

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