260DET Posted October 16, 2001 Share Posted October 16, 2001 My '77 is used for both road and circuit track work. All the suspension bushes are OE, except for the tension rods which are poly. At present the front end is aligned: toe in 3mm, caster 3 degrees, camber 2.5 degrees negative which is at full adjustment. The car had excellent straight line stability but is a bit reluctant to turn in to a corner. So I am looking at reducing the toe or caster a bit but don't want to lose that straight line stability. Any suggestions as to settings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted October 16, 2001 Share Posted October 16, 2001 240/260/280s are famous for their reluctance to "turn-in." As an example... About 5 years ago Tom Berry and Erik Messley(the previous owner of my 240Z) traded drives for some fun runs at the end of an autocross. Tom is a multi-national champ driving (at the time) a highly modified Mazda RX3 in CSP. He was driving my very well prepared BSP 240Z and at the first turn he pretty much plowed over about 8 cones on the outside of the corner. Tom was convinced my car had a flat outside front tire. When Erik drove Tom's RX3 the exact opposite happened. He hit just about every apex cone and spun once. Rita Wilsey (multi-national champion Corvette driver) also drove the car that event and couldn't turn the wheel with all the caster (+8 degrees) Erik had in the car at the time. She screamed as we came to the first slow corner and he had to reach over and help her turn the wheel to keep from going WAY off course. A good Z autocross alignment is: Front ----- Camber 3 to 3.5 degrees negative Caster 6 degrees positive Toe 3/16 to 3/8" out For track work I would run both toe and camber and the lower end of the scale. Rear ----- Camber 2.5 to 3 degrees negative Toe 0 to 3/16" in [ October 16, 2001: Message edited by: johnc ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZROSSA Posted October 16, 2001 Share Posted October 16, 2001 Hey 260det, I take it that you have that fj20 in your z. Tell us more. Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted October 16, 2001 Share Posted October 16, 2001 The car I'm sponsoring for Autocross duties in Northern California actually backed off the camber SIGNIFICANTLY! Steve and Ian have found that running about 6.5-7.5 degrees positive caster and about 3/4 degree negative camber with 1/16-3/16 toe (depending) has helped them with stability in transitioning speed through the corners. The rear is set at about 1/2 degree with zero toe. They are currently using my control arms and TC rods (See the Hybrid Store) but will also upgrade to my adjustable rear units over the winter. These guys are setting Fastest time of Day at nearly every event they enter in their Fprep'ed 240z. The car is neutral, well balanced, and very happy with the current suspension settings. Mike Kelly ZF Racing LLC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Baldwin Posted October 16, 2001 Share Posted October 16, 2001 I've got what I consider to be a really good street/track compromise. 2.5 degrees neg. camber front, 2 degrees rear. ~4.2 degrees caster (T/C kit increased it from stock). 1/16" toe out. Springs are 160 lb/in front, 200 rear. Adjustable 1" bar in front, 3/4 rear. Car turns in GREAT. In fact, speaking of RX3s, my instructor of a couple years back who races an RX3 in GT3 complimented me on how well the car handled. It exhibits kind of a servo-steer effect. i.e., turn into a corner correctly and it's spooky how little effort is required at the wheel to carve through the turn. Wheeee! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted October 16, 2001 Share Posted October 16, 2001 If you're running slicks (as most Prepared cars do) then you do need to back off the negative camber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted October 17, 2001 Author Share Posted October 17, 2001 Thanks for the responses, much appreciated, plenty to think about there. ZROSSA, the FJ engine conversion was done about four years ago, bought two used ex Japan engines with gearboxes for AUD2,000. The MoTec and hi-flow turbo cost more than that. Not an easy conversion due to engine height but it performs very well, it is stock otherwise, I just don't like the L series engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 Yup, my guys are running slicks and will be running wider and softer "NEW" Slicks by next years MSA event. They hope to have a MUCH better showing there next spring! Old school thoughts were to dial in a bunch of negative camber, but to much of a good thing can hurt ya, as you well know John! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 Don't I know it! Got an e-mail early yesterday from Donn Vickrey. He's selling his ITS 240Z and I'm seriously thinking about buying it. My home has a 2 car garage and my wife and I own 6 vehicles right now. I must have rocks for brains... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted October 18, 2001 Author Share Posted October 18, 2001 Have a new set of Toyo Proxes RA1 225/50ZR 15 to try out this coming Saturday, in place of the Yoko 032R 225/60R 15 previously used, before making any alignment changes. The Toyo's give a lower ride height which by itself should improve things, not that the handling was bad previously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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