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Lumpy and low idle, wondering what's wrong...


Careless

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hi everyone,

 

I just got my car to run this weekend. It hasn't started for 25 years. It was given to me by the previous owner's wife, as some of you may know from reading my other thread entitled "No Longer Carless"

 

The list of thing's i've done are as follows.

 

Changed oil.

Changed oil Filter.

Changed Fuel Filter.

Changed seals on Fuel pump.

Rewired bits and pieces of the dash wiring (after having taken out the dash to store it because it's nice and has no cracks =D )

 

I have uploaded a video on youtube here:

 

When changing the seals on the fuel pump, i noticed that (when running the fuel pump dry) the fuel pump spins faster in reversed polarity than it does in the proper polarity. I know running pumps dry isn't the greatest thing to do, but It's what I did to make sure it was working correctly, and that's how I got this thing started... by testing these things out.

 

I found that one of the pump seals had been lodged into the impeller and small dowel rollers. So i scrounged for some o-rings that would fit, and I found a suitable pair, but as I said, the pump goes slower in forward than it does in reverse.

 

SOOO my guess is that the fuel pressure is a little low, but I'm not sure if that explains the very happy rev at near full throttle. It also does not have an exhaust pipe, as it fell off from it's rusty hangers and slid off the header when I was revving it for the very first time =)

 

ANNNND some would say "unloaded" engine revving is not too healthy either, but give the thing a break, it needs to catch a breathe of fresh air and some dino-juice after fasting for 25 years.

 

So the Ghandi-Z lives, but it's not idling too good. A friend suggested that I replace the plugs and check my distributor timing.

 

Any tips and tricks?

 

Raff

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I would change the plugs for sure. Being that it has been sitting so long I'd venture to say the vacum hoses are probably shot. Especially in the extreme cold as you are in. I'd replace all of it because it is cheap.

 

Sitting 25 years also i'm suprissed it started at all with the injectors sitting that long. I'm sure their dirty.

 

Did you flush the lines? Who knows what kind of build up are in those lines. And as you run it, more of it (build up from the old gas) will probably come off.

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extreme cold?

 

I'm in Toronto, not the Arctic Tundra.

LOL

 

thanks for the advice, I'll change the plugs tomorrow, and inspect the vac lines.

 

Anyone else got more ideas? or tests to do before putting the money down?

 

I would change the plugs for sure. Being that it has been sitting so long I'd venture to say the vacum hoses are probably shot. Especially in the extreme cold as you are in. I'd replace all of it because it is cheap.

 

Sitting 25 years also i'm suprissed it started at all with the injectors sitting that long. I'm sure their dirty.

 

Did you flush the lines? Who knows what kind of build up are in those lines. And as you run it, more of it (build up from the old gas) will probably come off.

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I was saying that from the sound of it, it sounds like the fuel pump is dying and the engine is starving at idle.

 

I'm away of that. And what I'm responding with is whether or not a dying fuel pump would start causing misfires at high RPM (which is not the case in the video) or if it would cause my engine to run super lean, which could detonate anytime soon if I keep trying to rev it every once in a while to get the engine loose again.

 

I would think that a dying fuel pump can't provide enough fuel at high OR low rpm's, and it would mean that it isn't making the proper fuel pressure, at low rpm's, but works fine at high rpm's?

 

I think it's my alternator, it doesn't work too WELL, but when it's spinning over at faster speed, it feeds the pump the power it needs so it starts to pump more.

 

I'm going to try and test another battery ASAP.

 

any other suggestions, keep em comin.

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That was going to be my suggestion was checking the alt output. It would be dropping low at idle due to worn brushes and picking up enough juice when spun up to smooth things out. If you have the money and the tools I would do the GM alt conversion and get a 100A alt from JC Whitney ($89 not sure what shipping is). My alt is taking a crap again and I'm tired of messing with the Nissan alts. They cost too much and you have to wait for it to come in. If you get the cheap ones though they don't last more than 3 months. Gm alts are common, put out more amperage and are cheaper. Does anyone else know of a good place to get the 100A GM alts cheap? JC Whitney is the best I've found so far. Just make sure when you're buying one that you get it with a single groove pulley to match. Unless you want to go with a serpentine system like the ones that Z Race Products offers.

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That was going to be my suggestion was checking the alt output. It would be dropping low at idle due to worn brushes and picking up enough juice when spun up to smooth things out. If you have the money and the tools I would do the GM alt conversion and get a 100A alt from JC Whitney ($89 not sure what shipping is). My alt is taking a crap again and I'm tired of messing with the Nissan alts. They cost too much and you have to wait for it to come in. If you get the cheap ones though they don't last more than 3 months. Gm alts are common, put out more amperage and are cheaper. Does anyone else know of a good place to get the 100A GM alts cheap? JC Whitney is the best I've found so far. Just make sure when you're buying one that you get it with a single groove pulley to match. Unless you want to go with a serpentine system like the ones that Z Race Products offers.

 

Ok,

 

so it would seem that I'm not dillusional in thinking that it's the alternator. What is involved in making the conversion to a GM alternator? Is it really that expensive? I'm not keeping this engine, but i'd like it to run in tip top shape before pulling it.

 

thanks =)

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dumb question but has the gas in the tank been sitting for 25 years? LOL seriously though i'd lean towards contaminates in the fuel system if all the ignition components looked ok, ie no cracks/hot spots in the cap, and the rotor button looks good. it'd be a good idea to do it anyways so i'd give the thing a major tune up and definately flush the fuel lines out, replace the fuel filter, and if you're still having problems THEN i'd check the distributor and see if the vac advance is working etc. at least you have compression :D

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dumb question but has the gas in the tank been sitting for 25 years? LOL seriously though i'd lean towards contaminates in the fuel system if all the ignition components looked ok, ie no cracks/hot spots in the cap, and the rotor button looks good. it'd be a good idea to do it anyways so i'd give the thing a major tune up and definately flush the fuel lines out, replace the fuel filter, and if you're still having problems THEN i'd check the distributor and see if the vac advance is working etc. at least you have compression :D

 

no i drained the gas and put 10 bux into the tank.

 

The tank is brand new, but the tequila that came out of the tank from 25 years ago was pretty old and potent.

 

It runs fine, it just doesn't idle well.

 

I don't want to keep this engine, i just want it to run well before i pull it so i can sell it as a GOOD WORKING engine. right now i think it doesnt need much, because it only has 46,700 k on the engine and it's clean as a whistle inside.

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