alexideways Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 Hi, after removing the engine in my car, I tought it would simply be easier if there was no rad support. My question here is, would it affect structural rigidity if I were to cut it off, add a bit at both ends and bolt it to the car after for easy access when needed? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismopick Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 It's welded for a reason... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexideways Posted December 20, 2006 Author Share Posted December 20, 2006 I asked cause, I've seen many cars with a bolted rad. support, like most german cars. Audi/BMW that I know of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismopick Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 I'm sure you could. Just need to fab up some strong brackets. Are you swapping engines weekly??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexideways Posted December 20, 2006 Author Share Posted December 20, 2006 No but, as things start rolling I might start breaking things more often. Plus most of the time I'm alone to do this so, this would help me not swing the tranny in the windshield. Allmost happened when I took the L24 out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 I cut my core support completely out, and replaced it with a more usable, but much weaker support designed solely to hold an aftermarket radiator in position at an odd angle, and nothing else. I did this though in conjuction with the stiffening of everything from the strut towers rearward. With this done, anything forward of the towers is inconsequential in regards to chassis rigidity and suspension tuning. Even with the proper tower bracing, the front swaybar mounting is forward of the towers (by only a few inches) on boxed frame rails, does influence the twisting of the tower area, but I don't THINK it is significant by any means. The OEM chassis (front strut tower area) benefits from a good core support, but once the towers are beefed up, the core's support for the towers is negligible, and now becomes a primary supporting structure for the radiator, headlights, bumber, and other necessary things for the street car. If I were to do it over again, I would "bolt" the core support in place rather than have it welded in as is the current set-up. With that said, I would still weld the lower part that connects the two framerails together (I used 1" X 3" rectangular tubing) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 I removed part of my radiator support to put a ram air system on my car. Even though some people thought it would be fine that way, it seemed that several knowledgeable people thought it would be a problem. So I welded in some additional reinforcement to help compensate for the removed piece. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106914 I think that what you're asking would be possible, but you would need to provide additional strengthening like what blueovalz mentioned in his post. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexideways Posted December 20, 2006 Author Share Posted December 20, 2006 Thanks guys but, I don't plan on relocating anything for now, simply put, what I whant to do is cut the top bar only, box the cutted area, weld in an insert (nut) weld some tabs at the end of my original bar and bolt it back in place so it can be removed when I drop the RB in and for furhther engin swaps like when I'll switch to my hopfully one day built RB30 block. Will that be stiff enough? I also plan on stitch/spot welding the whole shell while it's on the BBQ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 Sounds fine. I would suggest the use of multiple bolting points per side. My thoughts would be a minimum of two bolts per side, with these bolts spaced out as far apart from each other as is possible, and keep the bolt holes as small as possible (minimumize the slop around the bolt shank or threads). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexideways Posted December 20, 2006 Author Share Posted December 20, 2006 Sounds fine. I would suggest the use of multiple bolting points per side. My thoughts would be a minimum of two bolts per side, with these bolts spaced out as far apart from each other as is possible, and keep the bolt holes as small as possible (minimumize the slop around the bolt shank or threads). Thank you very mutch, you and your car are allways a good source of info. and inspiration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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