nismopick

Nice build! Glad to see another local S130 Turbo!

So I haven't logged in for a while, now I can't post in the main forums. I imagine there's some "hoop" to jump through every so often? =)

I think it goes on this motor.... (such a small flywheel!)

Sorry... Pin 28 & 36 are gounds & pin 27 & 35 are switched +12v power. I was thinking of a diff connector when I said one ground needs to stay separate. Here's a pic of my new ecu connector.

Before this thread hits the tool shed... SEARCH! There's only about 4.2 billion threads about turbo swaps, probably some stickies too. Changes? Yep... wiring, exhaust, some hoses, etc.

I didn't know "dark" was a color.

If the rotor is 180 off, couldn't you just rotate the crank through another cycle and then the rotor will be dead on? If the car runs okay, it's not 180* off.

What COLOR is the smoke? Why did you adjust the timing down if it was running great? Have you checked the spark plugs (gap & tip color)? Have you checked the fuel pressure? Have you checked the a/f ratio? Have you tried advancing the timing back to 34*? Have you checked ALL sensors and connections? These are all basic things to check... all of which can be found in your Haynes manual or FSM.

^^^ So even after the Z31 ecu swap you have the same prob? Have you run the diagnostic codes? Most of my issues went away when I did my Z31T ecu swap, except for crappy idle & random misses. Running the diagnostic codes helped. I was actually getting random sensor codes. After racking my brain I finally found that the culprit was the bottom ground wires on the lowest ecu plug. They were very loose in the plug itself, and the massive ground collector joint about 4 inches in was really half assed by Nissan. Those grounds control all the major sensors. I cut out and replaced that entire plug w/ one from an 89 Z31, then made my own ground connections. If you do this, pay attention to the wiring schematics, because one ground cannot be grounded to the body as the ecu controls it directly. Now my Z idles & revs great.

Well... have you taken it out and inspected it? Have you adjusted the idle screw? Have you checked the connection boots to make sure they are tight? n-e-e-d--m-o-r-e--i-n-f-o

^^^ Not to stereotype, but "Chris Miller" is a pretty "English" name too. That's a "phat" intercooler y0!

I assume this is going on an L Series motor? Are you using the stock FPR? Because most of the L28 FPR's just have one IN and one OUT.

Post that ebay item... the cheapest I can find is: $119 ($122 Buy It Now) + $10.99 shipping - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-Head-Studs-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-202-4206_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem53dc8fb338QQitemZ360182690616QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories $129 w/ free shipping - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-Head-Studs-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-202-4206_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem27aae0f612QQitemZ170370594322QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Dude....

So it was running fine before you replaced the injectors? There's no power, yet there is power?

You need to get out more....

Just to clarify, this is for the Toyota S12 caliper fit right? If so, I'm in for a set.

Sourcing an n/a oil pan & adding in a bung will probably be easier (just in case you can't find a turbo oil pan).

Welcome! What did the orig spark plugs look like when you took them out? What did you set the timing to? What do the metal connections to each sensor look like? Any corrosion?

Yeah... that's what I was gunna say....

Good luck with that. They are expensive for a reason and I wouldn't trust a used set... you don't really know if they are damaged.

The air regulator is the main item controlling cold start idle. Have you checked it? Also the 280zx turbo ecu harness connections are known to build up corrosion. I also had a problem w/ the bottom 2 black (ground) wires on the lowest ecu plug. About 4 inches in there is a large ground wire junction that was put together half assed by Nissan. Cut and replace it. Those are the grounds for major sensors.

Position? Meaning location? About 2 inches forward (towards the throttle body).

Good advice (note my sarcasm).... An angle grinder will only take about a week, and damage the panel. You need to drill out all the spot welds around the flanges. Then use a pneumatic chisel to break the welds loose. On the c-pillar where the quarter panel and roof meet, there is a brazed flange. That you will need to grind loose. It's a nightmare of a job for a first timer.

If you're doing this for "more air", why not do the "turbo AFM guts into n/a AFM" swap? http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/sizeupgrade/index.html If you're dying to be original... tear them both apart and compare. I can't imagine any real gains over adjusting the stock one, or converting to the turbo AFM body. And if you're still running everything else stock (especially after the AFM), it's not going to make much difference anyway.