OlderThanMe Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 While 2003Z/Mike and I were at the JY pulling my MN47 head I had the idea... Would it be possible to powdercoat a whole engine block? From all practical reasons there seems like nothing that would keep you from doing it. Mike has a big enough oven to easily fit an L6 block. I think regular temp powdercoat would be fine for the <300 degrees of the engine block. I am going to get my engine hot tanked this week sometime and will be ready to put it back together and coated later this week or next week. I think a good thick coat of powder would be really good on my block as it is fairly easy to apply and there is a WIDE choice of colors available. Common sense says that this will work great but I just want to see what more informed common senses say... This thread talks about it and it seems like a good idea... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruez Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 It can be done... however, with that being said there are some things that come along with it... First, cast items are the worst parts to coat... mainly because of the outgassing. Cast Aluminum and Cast Iron parts will outgas. The more oil and grime that has been around the particular piece and the porosity of the parts, the worse it will be. Hot tanking will help.. but you are almost guaranteed to have some pin holes in the coating with normal powders. There are some outgassing forgiving powders though.. just not in the rainbow of colors that normal powders come in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparks280zt Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 Can he not just stick it in the oven for 30 minutes or so and let it out gas? Then let it cool, coat it, then cook it again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFancypants Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 The temperature isnt going to be an issue, but I'd be concerned with the quality of the finish. You could go with a "hammertone" finish to make it look more even. Or you could have the block polished. Thats going to be pricey but is the ultimate bling - Greg - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIM73240Z Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 but doesn't a block see higher temps than a powder coat can take? just curious. jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruez Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Hammertone and textured powders work great on cast pieces..and parts that have pitting from previous rusting / oxidation. You wouldnt' really notice pinholes since the surface is not smooth.. Thats where they show up easily.. As for letting it outgas, on a piece of iron the size of a block it would be for a couple of hours... at least. And at temperatures around 500 deg or more for the outgassing "treatment".. Curing temps for the powders are usually in the 375-400 deg range and most normal powders are good for sustained temps at about 350 degrees. There are also other specialized powders that are good for higher temps.. Most powders you can buff out with rubbing and polishing compound to fix scratches... just a little more work than with paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iaconsultants Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 I cooked some powder coating on some stop-tech and some brembo brakes. But they were used during hard racing on a road course. Basically it fried it off in bubbles and turned it a little chalk like in areas. If you see very high temps powder coat will not work. Two part epoxy paint will, but requires a primer epoxy that is classified as a restricted toxic paint like leaded paint and mostly only used by government facilities or contractors. I would just recommend using standard high temp engine paint and make sure the engine is really clean first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 Well here is the color I am going to be using. The same color TimZ used on his valve cover. I think I am going to use a flap disc on a grinder and smooth out the block before powdecoating so it looks more even. Ernie: Thanks for your input! 2003z is going to help me out with this and he owns thepowdercoater.com but this will be his first block. I'm not too worried about chips...this isn't a show car at all. The engine will look good though. Cruez: Thanks for the outgassing info! I will keep that in consideration when prepping the block! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003z Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 I cooked some powder coating on some stop-tech and some brembo brakes. were they the factory finish? If so, they are painted, not powdercoated. Regardless, 90% of my pc business is brake calipers, and I do on average 5-6 sets per week. I never recommend powdercoating for cars that see track usage, although my own experience with several track outings is that I haven't had problems. I think I am just easier on the brakes than most however, as my gold 350z brembos never turned dark after several events when most people who track theirs turned dark brown. Another side note, the darker that factory paint gets, the harder it is to strip off! unfortunately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003z Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 we will probably outgas the block for 3 hours at least. I expect it will take a good 2 hours just to get up to temp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003z Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 oh yeah, and of course Dan picks the color that really needs a clear coat on top to bring out its best, (although not required) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted January 6, 2007 Author Share Posted January 6, 2007 meh... we don't have to clearcoat the block...just the head and valve cover and other little junk that will be coated up where the motor will be seen the most. The block is going to be hard enough to move around to just put the color on. Much less the clear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003z Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 make sure you bring at least 4 of those spare head bolts you got from the junkyard too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted January 6, 2007 Author Share Posted January 6, 2007 That's a good idea!!! That will make it easy to move the block around... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 This thread is DEFINITELY going to need pictures before it is all done. OTM, take some before, during, and after photos if possible---it'll inspire a whole lot more spending among the members. A final photo of the finished product is also worth a thousand words, especially when a experienced PC like Mike is involved. This is going to be good. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted January 7, 2007 Author Share Posted January 7, 2007 Thanks Davy!! Here is my before shot as she sits now. I'm not working monday so I'll take it down to the machine shop first thing to have one head bolt hole fixed and get it hot tanked. I am going to try to get the MN47 tanked at the same time since it has 200,000+ miles of crud built up inside it. That is if I can buy a valve spring compressor that doesn't break on the first valve...(don't buy cheap tools!) It's just all stacked together there...not bolted or anything. Tomorrow I am going to buy a good pully puller and remove the main pully and crank. I already bought my $7 27mm socket for the main crank bolt and got that off. Pistons and rods are already out... You can see I partially stripped the rear bottom of the block but that was too much of a pain to do the whole thing... This is the intake Mike did for me (for my Dad's christmas present). The aluminum was just rough and not smoothed out. With smooth metal the powder is really smooth! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003z Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 Dan, when they hot tanked my block, they put a primer on it also. Tell them not to do that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted January 8, 2007 Author Share Posted January 8, 2007 Roger that Mike! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruez Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 Prismatic black !! .... that outta stand out on a block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted January 8, 2007 Author Share Posted January 8, 2007 aye aye captain! That's right!!! Off to the machine shop in the morning! I got my crank out tonight and have just a couple things to remove from the block before I take it. The head is going to be a pain because I don't have a decent spring compressor yet. I'll go to the other parts stores and try to find one that will work. What stinks is I have to be at work by 11am until 5pm...arg. Right in the middle of the day. So I need to get up early to get the stuff I need... And I am in a time crunch because I need to get this motor back together and in the car running by the 18th... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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