Jump to content
HybridZ

should I try 'em???


Recommended Posts

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-to-5-LUG-ADAPTERS-KIT-4x100mm-or-4x4-25-TO-5x4-5_W0QQitemZ280040154626QQihZ018QQcategoryZ34209QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

 

Beats the hell out of scrounging the junk yard, welding, redrilling, coughing up a bunch of money to MM, only to require 1.75 inch spacers anyway. I have a set of mustang cobra 17x10.5s for the rear and 17x9s for the front. This car will be used for road racing. Would you trust these spacers?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure about those ones, but I have looked into the ones made bu techno toy tuning (sp?). I spent a while on the phone with them asking questions about their spacers. It was brought to my attention that they run them on all of their personal "drift" cars and have yet to break a single one. The price seems pretty reasonable too. I have also heard good things about the other products they carry so they might be worth a shot. Just my 0.02.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I sent the guy an email and they are available for a 4x114.3 pattern. I ordered a set. I'll probably only use the rears, since I'd like to use the 300ZX hub in the front (since its a bolt on simple swap) with a wheel spacer and put the rotor behind the spacer to gain caliper/wheel clearance for my StopTech calipers. I'll try to use the Cobra 13" rotors on the front and make a custom caliper bracket. I should have the spacers within a week, so I'll post pictures when they arrive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could buy the stub axles from ross for $125 and the aluminum front hubs from Jamie for about $300... Or a set of 300ZX hubs for about $80... So why not do it right and get the parts with the studs already inplace?

 

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am going to need spacers anyway, and this incorporates a spacer into the 5 lug adaptor. I think that the stock (or 280) 4 lug rear stub axle is as strong or stronger than the 5 lug welded and redrilled rear stub, plus from the looks of the part on MMs website, it may pose a balance issue at high speed....maybe not, I dunno. The only option I feel comfortable with from MM is their cromolly rear stubs, but those are a little expensive for me right now. I will definately get the 300ZX front hubs. But I think this is the cheapest alternative for rear, considering I'll need to buy a set of 1.5" spacers anyway. Then I can buy a full set of spacers to make the front wheels fit, and I'll have a spare set of rear adapters and front spacers to sell if someone else wants to do the same conversion....if it works on my car. I'll change out all studs, in the stub axle and the adapter, to ARPs, because reliability is key in my case.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To my knowledge none of Ross' Stubs have had issues with imbalance.

 

If it's a budget/Cost issue, I understand. But it's been my experience, and the history of many of us on this board (I've been here since the beginning and have gone thru SIX different front brake iterations) that you're far better off in the long run to do it right the first time...

 

Just a thought...

Mike

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Look at the pics in the signature of username Speeder

 

He's got the mustang cobra rims, and they look pretty damn good IMO.

 

I'm not trying to be a dick...but what exactly isn't right about this? This is a very similar method to convert the rear to 5 lug that AZC uses on his rear Wilwood kit. The rotor hat is about an inch thick, and bolts to the 4 lug hub, but leaves you with 5 lugs to mount the wheel. Aside from the fact that this is a 2 piece adapter, its the same concept. Just wondering what downsides you see to this method.

 

And yes, it is kind of a budget/cost issue. I bought this car with the impression (left on me by the seller) that the engine and trans had 500 miles on them, and all that would be necessary to get it running was to go through it, clean everything, maybe new rings and bearings, slap a big cam in it, clean up the heads, and I'd have a solid motor. I was anticipating spending about $1000 on the motor, if that, and the rest was budgeted toward brakes, suspension, and cage. After tearing the engine and trans apart...and finding absolutely nothing salvagable inside, my budget changed a little. I've got about $8000 into the motor, trans, and diff right now, and not much left for the rest if I want to make it in time for the first race in 3 months. I've got to start getting creative.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...