Heater hose routing issue

[Chemicalblue]

Hello all,

 

Ive made some good progress with my Haltech install and now I need some advise on the heater hose issue that has developed by makeing a bracket like this for my coil packs http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f380/rontyler/coils.jpg

Now from looking at the pic I can see where one line go's but the other is the issue Im having. Do I still need to retain the T valve that is in the factory line? The flow of the heater core system seems to be in a open loop, how does it refresh the hot water in the core this way? I thinking of just making a area on the lower water neck inlet to thread a hose barb to supply the hoses. I just wanted to see if anyone has done this diffrently or set it up a little better. (Btw this is on a 280zxt)

Tnx

[TimZ]

Hello all,

 

Ive made some good progress with my Haltech install and now I need some advise on the heater hose issue that has developed by makeing a bracket like this for my coil packs http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f380/rontyler/coils.jpg

Now from looking at the pic I can see where one line go's but the other is the issue Im having. Do I still need to retain the T valve that is in the factory line? The flow of the heater core system seems to be in a open loop, how does it refresh the hot water in the core this way? I thinking of just making a area on the lower water neck inlet to thread a hose barb to supply the hoses. I just wanted to see if anyone has done this diffrently or set it up a little better. (Btw this is on a 280zxt)

Tnx

 

 

Not sure what you mean by "T valve", but you need two hoses to supply water to and from the heater core. It looks like you have the one from the back of the block, but you still need the one that goes to the lower rad hose inlet. The fitting at the back of the block supplies water to the core, the one at the front of the block is where the water is returned. I see two (maybe three) fairly easy solutions offhand.

 

1. Mount the coils closer together on the plate, offset towards the center, so that you can clear up enough space to put a 90 degree fitting in the stock location on the rad hose inlet, and route the hose around the coils.

 

2. Weld a 1/2" npt female bung onto the inlet at an angle that will allow you to install a hose barb without relocating the coils.

 

or

 

3. braze (or weld if you have an aluminum rad) a 1/2" npt female bung onto the radiator tank just above the lower rad hose outlet, such that you can get a clean routing from the rad to the core.

[Chemicalblue]

Tnx Tim, I found a water flow dia. and I think Im going to relocate the return line on the inlet housing. The "T" valve is some type of thermostat valve that bypasses the heater core when cold Im guessing, there is not alot of info on it. Ill post pics when Im done. Tnx again

[zcarnut]

… The "T" valve is some type of thermostat valve that bypasses the heater core when cold Im guessing, there is not alot of info on it….

 

Per the Nissan TSB’s, it’s a radiator bypass valve.

 

On the later L6's (ZX’s and first gen Maxima’s) Nissan used a bypass hose from the rear head outlet (a special dual outlet fitting which still fed the heater core) to a T-fitting on the heater return line hose. The key to making it work is that the T-fitting has a pressure relief valve on the bypass line.

 

When the thermostat at the front of the engine is closed the water pressure in the head is higher than normal and the relief valve in the T-fitting opens allowing water circulation. This flows through the bypass hose to the water pump inlet during engine warm up. This circulation prevents “hot spots†from developing in the cylinder block and head. As the thermostat opens the water pressure drops and the relief valve closes, otherwise you would be bypassing the radiator with the heated water.

 

It's a good idea, if you ask me.