deja Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Ok I'm not new at working on cars and removing stuff but this IRS is different for sure. I'm pulling my old setup out and am confused on how to get to the drive shaft nuts at the diff. I see no way to get to the nuts on the back of the flange without lowering the diff. Is that correct? Is the a trick to this I can't see?The Camaro had a ton of room to work, this thing has none. The shop manual says "Remove the bolts securing the companion flange". Yeah right! The bolt heads I can see toward the front of the car look captured, they are not hex heads so I have to remove the nuts on the back which I can't get a wrench on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Get the car up and crawl underneath. You can get them off with a couple of box end wrenches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted January 31, 2007 Author Share Posted January 31, 2007 It is up, I have crawled under and see no way to get a wrench on those nuts. Get the car up and crawl underneath. You can get them off with a couple of box end wrenches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 I don't remember having too big of a problem getting those nuts off; although I do seem to recall having to turn the driveshaft in order to access them. Try rotating the shaft to a position where you can access just one of the nuts, and then once you have that one removed rotate it again until the next nut is in the same position that the first one was in. I don't remember the exact position (it may be that it's easiest to access when the nut is in the upper most position), but you may just have to do it by feel (no visual on the nut). Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Yes, you have to turn the driveshaft to a position where you can get the wrenches in there. Use box end wrenches. Having a second person in the car to put the tranny in gear when you are trying to loosen the nut can also be helpful. BTW, if you are new to working on cars, why are you diving into an LS1 swap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted January 31, 2007 Author Share Posted January 31, 2007 I got 'em off. Yep y'all are right, gotta get it in the right position, lock the brake, take one off at a time. Would have been nice to have that second person, LOL. Z-ya, I'm not new at working on cars, new to Datsuns. Most car's u-joint don't mount like that or have that limited access. BTW do you actually read my post? LT1 not LS1. peace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Yes, I read your post. Besides the LT1 to LS1 swap built into my post, was it accurate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted January 31, 2007 Author Share Posted January 31, 2007 Taking this off-line, I sent you a PM Yes, I read your post. Besides the LT1 to LS1 swap built into my post, was it accurate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Yea they're a pain on the later 280z's. Does anyone know if they can be easily replaced by another bolt setup that doesn't have that weird top on the forward facing side? Like the grade required, and if there is grinding required to fit them. Basically be able to unbolt them from the front. Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted January 31, 2007 Author Share Posted January 31, 2007 This is in the instructions for installing JTR's flange: Use socket head bolts (8 mm x 30 mm long, or 10 mm x 30 mm long) because it is difficult to get a box wrench around standard hex-head bolts. Use self-locking nuts to fasten the flange to the differential. Standard nuts have been known to come loose, with disastrous results. We recommend that you use Locktite® in addition to the self-locking nuts. If you get a driveline vibration in the car, always check the bolts on the differential flange to see that they are tight. Yea they're a pain on the later 280z's. Does anyone know if they can be easily replaced by another bolt setup that doesn't have that weird top on the forward facing side? Like the grade required, and if there is grinding required to fit them. Basically be able to unbolt them from the front. Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 i bruzed my knuckle, squished my thumb, bleed...almost fainted and all that other bs before i got mine off. i took off the sway bar, mount and rotated the drive shaft to get it to move around to have access to the nut. if i recall, i got access to it from the driver side of the vehicle... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted February 1, 2007 Author Share Posted February 1, 2007 The sway bar is in the way for sure. I'm hoping with thr JTR flange, better bolts and a better chioce of wrenchs it will be easier going back in. Yeah, like that always happens. i bruzed my knuckle, squished my thumb, bleed...almost fainted and all that other bs before i got mine off. i took off the sway bar, mount and rotated the drive shaft to get it to move around to have access to the nut. if i recall, i got access to it from the driver side of the vehicle... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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