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331 Stroker


MY77Z

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I have dyno'd the 331 on a chassis dyno. My car is a street car so it would make more power with more compression and a larger cam. Car made 398 to the rear wheels.

 

Would you be so kind as to tell us your build on this engine? That much power will test the limits of the rearend or other weak link but I would say that your 331 is the exception bordering on amazing. Track times? A mere mortal that built a 331 would be within the strength of an r200 IMO unless they were doing big clutch dumps.

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The combination was designed by Ford Performance Solutions. I built the engine. This is the basics. 331 cubic inch, Ross flat tops 10.8 to 1 compression, camshaft is a custom grind 234/244 with 598 lift. Trick flow twisted wedge heads stage 1 port job by Fox Lake. Victor Jr intake with a 750HP Holley. My car is heavy 3420 with me in it. I never power shift the car (stock T5) but I do launch the car hard. Only track times I have is when the car was first put together. Only miles on the engine was the 25 miles to the track so I wasnt trying to kill it. Also had the car tuned at the dyno after these times. 11.94 @114. Sprayed 100 shot of NOS car ran 10.90@128 Thats with a poor 1.74 60 ft. The car is full interior with working A/C. Car will diffinetly go faster. Car has all stock rear suspension. It does has 31 spline axles and center section but stock

everything else. Car does some serious twisting. Needs anti-roll bar installed in the rear to keep the rear end level when launching. Buy the way this is in a 1992 Mustang not a 280Z I am building a 1976 280Z with a 5.0 Hope that clears some things up for ya. Its not anything special just a good combination of parts. Im sure some guys make more power with less. I have the dyno sheets and the time slips if you still cant believe a mere mortal can build a good running 331.

 

 

ed

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I will have to find my folder on the engine. I will look tomarrow and get them posted for ya. I dont think the numbers are anywhere out of line for the combination. It would make more power with more compression but I need to be able to drive it on the street with pump gas.

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Car made 398.9@6200 rwhp and 366.1@5200 rwtorque. I have made some minor changes since this dyno. Should be slightly stronger now. Torque comes on hard and stays around the peak from 4200 to 5600 rpm. Just for grins ran the car on the dyno and sprayed 100 shot. Hazed the slicks and put down 502.8 rwhp and 599.0 rwtorque

 

ed

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Amazing. When my 289 measured 300 hp and 260 lb/ft on the dyno (RWHP), I was greatly disappointed, but did not know were to start looking. Yes, the additional stroke would add more torque, but obviously I'm missing something (oh, it was extremely rich on that run and I did not have a fix for it).

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You shouldnt be dissappointed. 300 horse is a pretty strong 289. In my opinon the 2 things that really help make good power is camshaft design and a good set of heads. How does the car feel when driving it. I am planning on just using a 5.0 with good heads and a decent cam in my 280Z. I hope its enough power to be fun. The other thing that makes power is compression. You can get by with 10.5 or so if you have aluminum heads.

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Stangracer, well i drove my car few times before the fusible links went bad, i'm telling you bro, my 5.0 with bolts on (stock heads/stock cam) is alot of fun on a 280Z, i raced a LS1 camaro the other day with no NITROUS, just motor, first and second gear only because the road ended with a roundabout :) the moment i floored the Z, i was 2 car lengths ahead, at the end of second gear, i was about 4 car lengthsor more ahead:) the guy was like" why the Z sounded like a mustang and why is it much faster then my Camaro???" LOOL

i would say, drop the 5.0 in it and have fun :) for me, i think i'm getting new aluminum heads and a F cam for now, and later on, ill think about the stroker....

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I suggest you check out http://www.corral.net and http://www.stangnet.com . They have a TON of info on different combo's. IMO, the F cam isnt a good choice for a HCI 5.0. Id go custom but if you are set on the letter cams, id go with an E cam.

 

 

EDIT...

 

even better yet, go with a trick flow package.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2DK514%2D360%2D350&autoview=sku

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Toms right. I have had almost all of the ford motorsport cams at sometime. I would opt for a custom grind. You know with the stock pistons you have to be careful with piston to valve clearance. I know their are alot of cams out since the B cam ford motorsport made but I still like that cam and will probably put one in my z car. Sounds good and runs good. I know its an old cam grind. Who knows might go custom.:burnout:I never liked the F cam but Im sure some have had good performance from it.

 

 

ed

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The best cam I ever ran for all around great performance was the original Ford "LeMans" cam (produced in the late '60s). I ran it for over 30 years in over a dozen cars and aways ended up putting it back in after trying other cams. The last one that I tried (and am currently using) is an Ultradyne cam, and was the only one that made me give up the LeMans cam.

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Terry,

 

What are the other specs of your LeMans cam?

 

What Cylinder Heads are you running? What is the Intake Port Volume cc's? What do your cylinder heads flow at peak lift; and what do they flow at 2/3's lift?

 

What is the Static Comp. you are running?

 

If the combo's correct you should be able to get 1.25 to 1.35 hp per cubic inch out of any engine.

 

You are currently at 1.22 hp per cubic inch: what is the objective you would like to reach?

 

Kevin,

(Yea,Still an Inliner)

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