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HybridZ

331 Stroker


MY77Z

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hi guys, alot of people would say that im crazy because im thinkig already about a stroker kit while i haven't driven my car yet and haven't seen the 302's power with NOS......anyways, i called the guys at D.S.S and asked for a nice combo for my Z, the combo that i liked the most was

 

1- a balanced 331 Pro-X Stroker Kit. -3cc/Flat Top/Inline Kit includes nodular iron 3.25" stroke crank, forged 5.315" I-beam rods with ARP bolts & full floating pins, forged Pro-X Series pistons, moly rings, and tri-metal bearings.

 

2-DSS 5.0 STROKER billet aluminum Main Support System w/ custom ARP main studs

 

3- AFR 185 w/ 58cc chamber (up to .600" lift hyd springs)

 

4- Comp Cams NX274HR Nitrous Camshaft (.555"/.570" 224°/236°@.050" 114°LSA 2200-6200RPM)

 

HP range should be around 430HP N/A with all the other goodies that i have....thats about 550 with NOS... what do you guys think and should i start my stroker project now or wait and see how the 302 performs?

 

thanks

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induction:

1- edelbrock performer RPM intake manifold

2- BBK 70mm throtle body

3- BBK cold air kit

4- Grenatelli 75mm mass air sensor

5- 1.72 Cobra rocker arms

exhaust:

1- MAC shorty headers with 2.25 pipes (welded)

2- costum made 2.25'' Y pipe to a single 2.5'' pipe

3- Megan N1 universal muffler 2.5'' inlet

fuel:

1- NOS fuel pump

2- NOS fuel filter

3- BBK fuel pressure regulater

4- Accell 30 lb/h injectors

ignition:

1- MSD 6AL ignition box

2- MSD blaster 2 coil

3- MSD distributer cover

4- MSD 8.5mm spark plugs wires

5- NGK (V)style spark plugs (cold)

transmition and rearend:

1- Tremec T5 interior parts

2- PRO 5.0 short shifter

3- Centerforce dual friction clutch kit

4- R200 rearend with 3.54 ratio (not lsd) but soon will be

Power adder:

1- NOS 150 dry nitrous shot

those are the currents mod........

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umm K,

 

Had to post, havnt been to this site in years.

 

first off. run the 302 w/ the stock cam and heads first..

 

 

next.. if its a strong shortblock put some 165 afr's or 185 tfs tw's on it. if not wait to blow the motor w/ spray and run 185 afr, high ports, darts, or 205 afr's. for the 2nd group of heads you will need notched pistons so i would wait for a rebuild.

 

i would stay away from the main girlde. waste of money.

 

if you stay below 500hp & 6000rpm your ok w/ the stock block.. more you need a dart or other.

 

i ran a 400hp 440tq turbo 302 in a 92 mustang and it was fast.. in a 240z which is at least 300 lbs lighter its probably really fast..

 

i would wait.. no need to burn money..

 

im thinking up a 240z prioject now that would have the ford 2.3 @ 30+ lbs of boost @ 500+ horse out of a 4 cyl.

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well, i have 2 friends, one with a 331 and the other has a 347, same heads, same superchip and same tuner, and almost the same combo, 331 made more hp!!

and BTW, i drove my Z today from the paint shop to the polishing place, floored it on 1st gear and damn, its fast :) knowing that it's not tuned at all, plug wires date from 1999, distrebuter cap also from 1999, but i was stuck in my seat :) still got the nitrous and the drag radials to come :)

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So you've already rebuilt your engine? Or is it still a 5.0? If it's that fast as a 5.0 then why not just drive it until it wears out and rebuild later? By then Pony motor technology will evolve even further;)

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its a stock 5.0, never changed a piece of the bottom end....i used this engine for 3 years in the states on my stang, street, track, road trips, everything, and never raced it witout NOS, used to run 75hp shot, then sent the stang back to kuwait, and for 5 years, i drove it only 10-15 times, raced it here with a 150hp shot, never had problems, guess its a strong engine....now its on my Z, we'll see next week how strong the Z is with drag radials and NOS.....

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the dss 331 package (probe pistons) will be fine.. the benifit of the 331 is w/ the 5.315 is the pin location. all though teh rod ratio isnt as desireable as the 5.40 it keeps the wrist pin out of the oil control ringland. thats why you will hear people say the 347 will have oil consumption problems. another thing, do you plan on turbo charging the stroker? is so i would stay away from a dual eyebrowed piston (twisted wedge and inline). there is a tendancy to lift the top ringland under severe boost pressures.. but by the time that happens most guys are running 700+ hp on dart blocks.

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I wouldn't waste money on a stroker kit with a stock block. All the machining in the world isn't going to stop the reason the stock block splits down the middle. If you are going to spend the money on a stroker, get a Dart Sportsman block for $2k us. Comes ready for a roller cam too.

 

http://www.adperformance.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=69_82_104

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Mike, sure i'll keep you posted ;)

hi Henry, how are you bro?? a video is soon to be posted, o ee akeed agoom, tabi 0-400 wella msayar 70-600?? :)

Cup, thanks for the info and not sure if im gonna turbocharge or supercharge it......im thinkin more about a supercharger.

Tom, the 331 combo from DSS is about 3500bucks, a block for $2k is a bit expensive now.... maybe later but now specialy after spending alot of cash on the Z for the last 4 monthes....

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Im pretty new here but have really enjoyed your post. What great progress in such a short time. This is just my opinoin. I have both a 331 and a 347 Mustang. I love my 331. Car has great power. I would highly recommend the 331 for a stick car. I built a 347 for my sons AOD mustang. I buy all my parts from Ford Performance Solutions. I really like dealing with them. (Ask for Troy) The only reason we went with the 347 in the AOD car was the fact that the 347 would make more low end torque that the AOD would need. I have dyno'd the 331 on a chassis dyno. My car is a street car so it would make more power with more compression and a larger cam. Car made 398 to the rear wheels. I feel pretty good about that number for a street car. I too thought about building a 331 for my 280z project but decided to just put a engine in it simular to yours. Basic 5.0 with heads and cam. I just figured I would try to get the most of a near stock combination. I think a 331 would for sure find the weaknesses of the rest of the car. ie rear end and axles. Not that it couldn't be made to handle that much power but I want to keep the car looking fairly stock. Again these are just my experiance. By the way my 331 wrist pin intersects the oil control ring and I have had no oil usage. As far as the stock block goes. I have had good luck using them but they are weak. I say engine balance is very important. I have a girdle on mine. It may not help but I have split one block on a early stroker engine and you could see where the main caps had shifted so I hope the girdle helps some. I would never supercharge or turbo a stroked stock block. Again just my opinions. Good luck and again love the progress you have made.

 

 

 

ed bettis

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Hi Ed, thanks for the complements, and im really happy that you enjoyed what im doing, 398RWHP is a great number for a street car, imagine that on a Z with a 150HP shot of NOS :)

actualy, 400 to the wheels is what i'm looking for on my Z....for now, i guess i'll stick with my stock engine, maybe just an E cam and a port/polish job for stock heads (ist worth it???).....i'm a bit worried about my diff, i have the open R200 with stock axles.....my ride will be a finished project by sunday or monday, i'll drive it and see how it goes, i'll keep you posted guys, thanks again ED

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Guest Gr8White
I wouldn't waste money on a stroker kit with a stock block. All the machining in the world isn't going to stop the reason the stock block splits down the middle. If you are going to spend the money on a stroker, get a Dart Sportsman block for $2k us. Comes ready for a roller cam too.

 

 

X2.....It's funny when you see places like DSS offer "pro" kits that don't even address the weak link in the 5.0 drivetrain, the block. DSS will tell you things like getting a main support system for support...Grief, all that is going to do is keep the mass of broken parts intact within your block....

Speed aint cheap and you get what you pay for.

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