Sleek Z Posted February 16, 2002 Share Posted February 16, 2002 Hi, All Hope this will be of some interest and use to everyone here. I've just published the first part of an illustrated article on "Broken 240Z Stub Axles and Solutions". You can find the links to the introduction and 2 excellent detail photos at http://www.zparts.com/inprogress.html There is a well documented safety issue on older 240Z models that I feel is not well publicized nor illustrated on the internet, that I have often felt inclined to address. Recently the topic has resurfaced on the IZCC list so I decided to take the first step toward publishing some useful information to get the ball partially rolling. You can find links to two rather revealing detailed photos, one of which has text overlays, that should introduce the topic well. I would most like to hear from anyone that has experienced this problem. I need to know any symptoms leading up to a cracked or broken stub axle being found and as to what solution you used to fix it. Note. Replacing a broken 240Z stub axle with a used one doesn't really make safety sense to many owners and Nissan no longer sells new ones. Racers, which most often encounter this problem, have found that stronger built 280Z stub axles can be substituted if the right swap parts are known. Later segments of this article will focus on solutions that others have turned to when fixing their cars. If you have direct experience or solutions to the problem to contribute, please send them to eric@zparts.com I am hoping that persons on this list will address this topic a bit. This is definitely a topic that needs to be discussed more often. Eric Neyerlin - owner of ZPARTS.COM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted February 16, 2002 Share Posted February 16, 2002 I was going to purchase some 280Z stub axles, but I think I'll hold off to see the outcome of this post. I have heard of the 240Z stub axles breaking and know of only one person to bust a 280Z stub axle. What else can we fit in there besides the stronger 280Z stub axles? !M! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 16, 2002 Share Posted February 16, 2002 I bought A 280 Z THAT HAD abroken stub axle on the passenger side, which I repaired with a used one. What was interesting: the broken stub axle was from a junkyard since it had yellow lettering indentifying it as a 1976 280 Z. I drove the car for awhile and did not notice any thing unusual . I plan on coverting this car to an "Origin" converible. (sometime in the future ?? sure!!)There was a bad u-joint too.I thought the u-joint was the culprit since they had just replaced the stub axle and it broke again.The u-joint had some serious maintenance neglect. I replaced the whole passenger side from the differential to the wheel from a parts car. All the owner knew was something went real wrong to the "rearend" two times in a row Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted February 17, 2002 Share Posted February 17, 2002 I'm in the process of putting in 280Z stubs - used of course. As for losing a wheel - I think having disk brakes in the back will capture it well enough not to lose the wheel. It might bind and lockup though so I'm not sure it's much better in the end... Not sure what the best solution is but I'm all ears on this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted February 17, 2002 Share Posted February 17, 2002 Dealing with the old Mustangs, the axles were held into the housing with a pressed-on metal ring. A bolt-on end plate then kept the ring situated in the housing. It was off course a bit of work to get the ring off the axle, but in reality, no more trouble than the effort needed to remove the stubs from the bearing carrier. This, and the fact a disc brake set-up would also restrict any "offing" of the axle should be of comfort to us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleek Z Posted February 17, 2002 Author Share Posted February 17, 2002 In response to my photos, I have heard from one person with a curious story of 2 strange "bang" noises (months apart) in the rear preceeding sheared differential ring gear bolts coupled with an observable "twist" in the stub axle (but it was not cracked). His did not break, but he and his mechanics are quite concerned about what was causing these "bangs" and the sheared bolts. They also discovered a leaking brake cylinder. After they fixed that, the guy never had another loud "bang" occurr. John Coffey, a SoCal racer and a few others have frequently mentioned experiencing stub axle breakage, but most I have read spoke of cracks and breaks at the out board portions the axle where it meets the stud flange, if I understand them correctly. Kim Blough has made some interesting remarks elsewhere that suggests that he may have a lot of experience to share on the topic. I am waiting to hear from him. The story of the photo on my website at the coming attractions page was that a racer, that had replaced a broken stub axle on his 72 240Z autocross car in the past, loaned out the car to his grown daughter and grandchild to use for a week of touring around the Bay Area freeways while they were visiting. Prior to the visit, he had been hearing strange noises from the rear of the car and had assumed that he might have a u-joint going out. After his daughter returned the car, he decided to investigate. When he jacked up the rear of the car and pushed on the half shaft, the outboard side just dropped on the ground! A little tug on the wheel and he was able to begin to pull it away from the car! Get the picture? Nasty stuff could have happened. My customer was lucky and his loved ones were not harmed. I know the experience really sobered him up a bit, however. I need more testimonials of others and more broken stub axles to photograph for evidence. Can anybody help me on this? Eric Neyerlin - owner of ZPARTS.COM eric@zparts.com Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DemonZ Posted February 17, 2002 Share Posted February 17, 2002 What sounded like a broken u-joint turned out to be a busted stub axle. It looked just like the pic above. Changing the axle out was HELL ! I tried a wimpy Bondo slide hammer on the stud side at first.....then an air hammer on the broken side.....then a 2.5lbs baby sledge, but really couln't get a good swing with a car on jack stands. So finally, I took out the control arm so I could really give it a good whack with the "tree splitting maul" .. Took two stump splitting blows to knock mine out. When it came out the stub end was pretty mushroomed from all the abuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted February 18, 2002 Share Posted February 18, 2002 One other item on this subject that should be kept in mind. In the case of the photo, It would appear that caution against over-torquing the nut is important. But this may be an issue from the factory, because I for one have never had the capability to torque the nut back to specs after removing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted March 1, 2002 Share Posted March 1, 2002 A bloke here who has extensive experience with building and navigating road rally Z's agrees that the heavier 260 on axle is the solution. In his experience 240 axles are a weak point that should be attended to on any competition Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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