Msnse L28et Freeway Excel Problems

[REISHOKIN240Z]

I have a MSNSE program from another hybridz go-er it actually runs really well but on the freeway after cruising for a while i would try to excel and the motor will stop running as if the motor died. So I would release the pedal and the motor would continue to run as if nothing happend.

 

I would then stab the pedal all the way down and it would die. Id even hold the pedal down for about 5 to 8 seconds and it would just coast as if the car shut off. Then I would let go and the car just keeps on running like nothing happened. All I could do is drive at a steady rate without acceleration.

 

The only way I could accelerate is to press the pedal slowly and let it climb speed little by little.

 

 

HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THIS PROBLEM? I CANT REALLY DO A SERCH CAUSE ITS TOO SPECIFIC OF A PROBLEM. ALL IV BEEN DOING IS GOING PAGE BY PAGE ON THE MEGASQUIRT FORUM WITH NO LUCK.

 

DOES ANYONE HAVE A RUNNING PROGRAM IN CALI? CAUSE I KNOW THE ALTITUDE PLAYS A ROLE ON THE MAP.

 

 

CHASSIE: 1973 240z

 

MOTOR: 1983 L28ET STOCK

 

 

ENGINE MANAGEMENT: MSNSE BY www.rs-autosport.com

 

 

L28ET FUEL PUMP

PALLNET BARBED FUEL RAIL

STOCK FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR

FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER

BLOW OFF VALVE

3 INCH EXHAUST PIPING

 

THATS ABOUT ALL.

 

THANKS…

[z-ya]

You took a map from another car, downloaded it and headed for the highway? You have a better chance of winning the lottery than having it run well across all driving conditions. Also, to take it out on the highway and punch it without any tuning, is very risky. You can easily detonate, blow the head gasket or worse.

 

It sounds like me that it is leaning out, which is not good. The acceleration enrichment settings could be causing this, or the fuel map for that matter.

 

Settle on a map, and then spend some time tuning. Getting it on a dyno will get it running right much quicker.

[trwebb26]

My initial vote is timing and the infamous overheating VB driver... but I could be wrong. Give us all the details on your whole ignition setup.

[REISHOKIN240Z]

THANKS FOR THE INPUT GUYS... SORRY I DIDNT GIVE A LOT OF INFO! I DIDN’T JUST THROW THE MAP IN AND JUMP ON THE FREEWAY AT FULL THROTTLE, ALTOGHT THAT WOULD HAVE BEEN FUNNY IF IT DID BLOW UP IN MY FACE.

 

NO REALLY, ITS COOL CAUSE IN THE CALIFORNIA CENTERAL VALLEY THERES A LOT OF COUNTRY ROADS WITH LONG EMPTY STRECHES SO I HAVE BEEN TESTING IT AT LOW, MID, AND HIGH SPEEDS. EVERYTHING FROM SLOW EXCELERATION TO FULL THROTTLE NECK SNAPPING TAKE OFFS FOR ABOUT A MONTH NOW BEFORE GOING ON A FREEWAY.

 

MIND THAT THE CAR I WARM AND RUNNING BEFORE THE TESTS BUT AFTER A HARD DRIVE THE SECOND RUN WOULD START DYING AT FULL OPEN THROTTLE JUST LIKE ON THE FREEWAY TOO.

 

I EVEN LOGGED IT, AND WATCHED IT ON MegaLogViewer IT SHOWS THAT THE FUEL PSI DROPS ALONG WITH THE INJ PULSE, AND THE O2. ALMOST AS IF THE SOME ONE TOOK THE BATTERY OUT OF MY CAR.

 

TRUST ME IV TRIED TO AVOID ASKING FOR HELP JUST TO SAVE MY @$$ FROM BEING STONED AND CRUSIFIED FOR SOMETHING I MIGHT JUST BE OVER LOOKING.

 

I TELL YOU THOUGHT THIS THING SPINS TIRES AT 6 PSI AND EVEN CRAZIER AT 13 PSI. IT’S JUST THAT IT GOES DUMB ON AN ATEMPED FAST EXCELLERATION AND AFTER ONE HARD RUN.

 

I DUNNO I GUESS IM AT A LOSS UNLESS I CAN FIND ANOTHER Z GOER IN THE CENTERAL CALI VALLY:sad:

[REISHOKIN240Z]

OH SORRY, ABOUT THE IGNITION SET UP IM RUNNING A MSD A6

83 280ZXT DISTRIBUTOR WITH 84 300ZX OPTICAL WHEEL SET BACK FULLY COUNTER CLOCK WISE.

 

 

 

SPARK SETTING:

 

TRIGGER ANGLE (DEG) 64

TRIGGER ANGLE ADDITION 0

CRANKING TIMING TIME BASED

CRANKING ADVANCE (DEG) 5

HOLD IGNITION 2

SPARK OUTOUT INVERTED YES

ODDFIRE NO

FIXED ANGLE -10

TRIM ANGLE 0

 

 

DWELL SETTING

 

DWELL CONTORL DWELL CONTROL

SPARK OUTPUT DUTY CYCLE 50% DUTY CYCLE

OR:

CRANKING DWELL (MS) 6.0

RUNNING DWELL (MS) 2.5

MINIMUM DISCHARGE (MS) 0.5

 

THE MSI WAS MADE BY RS AND HAS THE HI IGN OUTPUT.

 

 

 

ALSO ANOTHER THING I NOTICED ABOUT HIS SETTINGS ON THE BAROMETRIC CORRECTION WAS WAY OFF FROM WHAT

 

MY MAP IS READING (61 KPa) ATMOPHERIC PRESSURE IN CENTERAL CALI. SO I CHANGED IT TO MAX 55 AND MIX 65

 

 

 

BAROMETRIC CORRECTION ON HIS SETTINGS WERE:

 

MAX Kpa FOR BARO CORRECTION (KPa) 116

MIN Kpa FOR BARO CORRECTION (KPa) 67

 

 

THANKS GUYS

[RTz]

IT SHOWS THAT THE FUEL PSI DROPS ALONG WITH THE INJ PULSE,

 

First, some respectable people are trying to help you and you are talking 'at' them. Chill, my friend.

 

Second, I'd like to see the log's that show the fuel pressure dropping?

[REISHOKIN240Z]

HEY RON... HOWS IT GOIN? SORRY I DONT UNDERSTAND WHAT YOU MENT?

 

"First, some respectable people are trying to help you and you are talking 'at' them. Chill, my friend."

 

DID I DO OR SAY SOMETHING WRONG??? SORRY IF I OFFENDED SOMEONE BY SOMETHING I SAID OR SOMETHING I DID...

 

ALSO I DONT KNOW HOW TO SEND YOU A SNAP SHOT OF WHATS GOING ON, ON THE LOG. IS THERE A WAY TO SEND THE FILE?

 

MAYBE I CAN SEND IT TO YOU VIA EMAIL?

[BRAAP]

REISHOKIN240Z,

 

First off, welcome to Hybrid Z. We are generally warm friendly bunch so if some of what we say comes across as harsh, just let it roll of your back and don’t be afraid to ask what or why.

 

1) Hmm.. Fuel pressure falling off. Have you verified your fuel pump is keeping up and/or possibly a clogged fuel filter? I know you said that your pulse widths are also falling off, but I still have to ask…

 

2) The ignition driver could also be dieing or drawing to much current as “trwebb26” pointed out.

 

3) Also, have you verified that your actual ignition timing on the crank shaft matches what MS is configured for/telling you?

 

4) As for your MAP discrepancies. Sounds like the config settings for your particular MAP sensor may be off. You might contact Steve or Rodney at RS Autosport to verify your config settings for your MAP sensor within MS/Mega Tune, (My MSnS-E system was built by them. I have nothing but praise for their craftsmanship.)

 

 

As for Ron’s post, I’m pretty sure he was talking about your use of ALL capital letters, i.e. it looks like your caps lock button on your keyboard is stuck. If you are new to the online forums, “how” we write is viewed the same as “how” we speak in face to face conversation. For example, the use of capitol letters is like yelling or talking “at” someone. There are some people that very sensitive to this and sometimes those people can be quite frank about sharing their feelings. I think Ron was trying let you know this, giving you a little nudge before someone else jumped in harshly, as happens once in awhile on any forum. (Actually I’m surprised no one has spoken up about the use of CAPs in this thread yet)…

 

As for your Data log. If you have the means to take a screen shot of your data log and post it up using hosted picture site such as “photobucket”, or better yet, send that data-log to me directly at the E-mail address below as I have Mega-Log-Viewer on my desktop, and I’d be glad to look it over and even screen shot it and post it up here for you for others to give input, if that is ok with you.

 

What pressure sensor are you using for logging your fuel pressure?

[REISHOKIN240Z]

Braap,

 

Thanks for the heads up... Sorry, I'm used to writing in capitol letters so I type the same way too. I'v been so used to it after writing police reports for 8 years. It was just considered more legible... than lower case.

 

Sorry bout that guys! Anywho, I'll send you my log as soom as I figure out how to get it out of my stoneage laptop. No CD or DVD writer!

 

Oh I also forgot to mention after driving it to work a few days ago, I resetted the MSI during my lunch by opening up the program again burning it and of course turning the ignition key on and off. The MSI ran a lot better on the way home but the Log reads as such:

 

Steady 70MPH / FULLTHROTTLE

 

Gve 55 / 76

PW 4.7 / 14.6

Duty Cycle1 13.3 / 42.6

 

RPM 3403 / 3500

MAP 42 / 105

TP 7 / 25

 

O2 0.804 / 0.000

FuelPress 3 / -7

EGT 101 / 50

 

pulseWidth2 4 / 14

MAT 46.1 / 46.1

CLT 98.9 / 97.2

 

As you can see... well maybe not but the o2, fuel press, egt, all drop I put these three in graph 3 together cause they all seemed to drop upon putting the pedel to the floor. I figured this out by going down the list and saw that these three seemed to all run parallel to each other and all do a vertical drop at the same time. But the difference is the pulse with did not drop like it did before I re-burned the MSI. But still the same thing the car stops when the pedels down to the floor.

 

My first thoughts over flooding or even raw flood mode at tp setting too low. or even ign problems. but with the ign why would it contiue to run after letting off the pedel? MAN what ta head ache!!!

 

So anyway i know it worthless without a picture so ill send it to you asap.

thanks

BRAAP

 

you guys are awsome:icon6:

[linluv84]

Check the realtime display both with the engine on and off to check for incorrect sensor data. Did you calibrate the TPS properly in Megatune? Make sure the throttle moves nice and smoothly in the realtime display...

[woldson]

Sorry, I'm used to writing in capitol letters so I type the same way too.

 

Yea i was in the military and had to learn that the hard way too, actually i like reading caps.

[trwebb26]

I had VERY similar problems with an almost identical setup. Read this post:

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115390

 

Specifically - this part:

The input from my distributor was wired incorrectly from the very beginning (a year ago) as I got it from RS-Autosport. It was wired for a low to high dizzy and should have been wired for a high to low (thanks for the clarification, Moby!). That explains why my trigger numbers were so low (~55 degrees)... I was triggering off of the wrong side of the square wave. As the square wave width changed with increasing RPM - my timing would change the difference in width of the square wave - and eventually skip to the next optical trigger point at a high enough RPM. It makes perfect sense.

 

Start by taking your megasquirt apart and verify that it is wired for a HIGH to LOW input signal. Mine from RS-Autosport was wired wrong.

http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra_Ignition_Hardware_Manual.htm#hall

[REISHOKIN240Z]

OK OK OK! I think I figured it out reading my own post. Setting the distributor fully counterclock wise sets it at full RETARD like me!

 

The more and more I thought about it...I wondered how could the MS retard timing at high RPM if its already at full retard from the begining.

 

So, I set my #1 CYL at TOP DEAD CENTER and set my DIST. till the center LED on my MS lit up. I then locked the DIST.

 

Started the car up and the RPM was at 600 idling and not so great. I set the FIXED ANGLE on the MegaTune at 10 degrees BEFORE TOP DEAD CENTER and got my timing light.

 

From their I fully advanced my DIST. and locked it down. I then set my TRIGGER ANGLE (DEG) on my MegaTune to 81 to compensate for my full advance DIST. It now reads -10 on my MegaTune and -10 degrees on my crank pully using the timing light.

 

Only thing now is at the 0 DEG mark I unlock the DIST. and move counterclockwise to fullclockwise and the LED on the MS wont light up. So I just set it back to full ADVANCE locked it down and it still started up nice. It even has a steady idle at 800 RPM.

 

I just have not gone out to see if that would die at full TP on the freeway, Its like 1AM.

 

I'll post up later to let everyone know if I was just an Idiot. But before I do... did you guys agree with the prior DIST. timing being wrong?

[HB280ZT]

Something with this setup does not sound right.

 

When I did my 82 280ZXT timing I did this.

 

Went to TDC on the crank and verified the distributor and cam where all correct, #1 TDC.

 

Rotated the crank back 60 BTDC and moved the distributor so that the window prior to #1 plug/rotor were set and that I got the light on the MS unit. This is what I used as my reference for the #1 cylinder.

 

Now when I run the car it is set to 60 deg on my trigger angle. I am running 16 BTDC as my fixed idle setting, verified on the crank with a timing light.

 

Now not sure if my way of doing this is correct or not but i know that I can run a full 39 deg when I need it.

 

HB280ZT

[REISHOKIN240Z]

You know... I was never really sure how to do this and I think the way you did it is right. Itired to do it that way but the only way I could get the LED to go on was to have the DIST. fully retarded. I probably have the oil pump shaft off or something.

 

I have not ran my car with the changes yet but I think I'm going to right now just to satisfy my curiosity to whether or not I found my problem.

 

Be back in a minut! If you see a cloud of smoke on I-5 It's probably me. HAHA:fmad:

 

BTW:

 

HB280ZT

 

let me get this right... so when you are doing your timing, do you have the timing light on the #4 spark plug? cause that would be the one prior to #1 according to the firing order. 1-5-3-6-2-4. And if so is your DIST. set all the way advance (clock wise) or retard (counter clockwise)?

[REISHOKIN240Z]

OK.... WELL! that sucks! still the same thing... stops running at full TP. I even changed the ACCELERATION WIZARD from TPS-Based to MAP- Based and still the same.

 

I know there was athread on how to set timing but i cannot find it now? Can anyone tell step by step cause I think I'm Doing it wrong...

[HB280ZT]

No I do not have the timing light on the #4 plug.

 

Go to TDC and check everything. Now pull you dist cap, rotor and the metal cover that hides the CAS. Now look at the CAS and mark it at TDC. You should be able to see all 6 windows that active the optical sensor. You will see that the #1 window runs through the sensor about 30 deg before the plug fires. Also you will see if you look into it some that the rotor gives you a full sweep through the pickup on the cap by like 30 degs. This is how Nissan gave the timing more adjustablity.

 

 

Now rotated the motor back 60 deg on the crank. I actually used tape on the crank and marked the numbers back using the 30 deg marks on the crank. So try and rotate the distributor so that it window contacts the sensor and gives you a light. I could not rotate my dist enough so I moved the distributor to accomplish this or you could just continue to rotate and mark the crank until the light lites and that will give you the reference that you need.

 

I hope that helps.

 

HB280ZT

[REISHOKIN240Z]

Finally! It's Alive...

[REISHOKIN240Z]

Thanks HB280ZT for pointing me in the right direction.

 

Problem solved!

 

So this is what happened! I’ve been trying to set my timing by just turning my crank back 60 DEG BTDC and turning the DIST. till I got the LED on the MS to work. One problem though, the oil pump spline was off. So when I set the DIST to light the LED it was still on the #1 CYL window on the OPT. WHEEL when I adjusted it.

 

Solution:

 

Just like HB280ZT said, I took the cap, rotor and plate off so I could see the OPTICAL WHEEL with the 6 windows. I had the 300zx version so it had a larger window that indicated the #1 CYL window.

 

Now I just had to get the sensor to be centered with the #4 CYL window (the window prior to the #1 CYL). The way I did that was to turn the crank back far enough BTDC till I was within the DISTRIBUTORS adjusting range (APPROX. 80 BTDC because of the oil pump spline being off.). PRESTO! The led went on.

 

I then started the car and it was really rough because the TRIGGER ANGLE (DEG) on my MegaTune was at 81. And like I said my FIXED ANGLE on the MegaTune at 10 (DEG) BTDC.

 

So I adjusted my TRIGGER ANGLE up from 81(DEG) and the car died. OK! So…., started it up again and kept LOWWERING the number from 81. The idle started to smooth out and became steady. When I hit TRIGGER ANGLE 55(DEG) my timing light matched my FIXED ANGLE 10(DEG) BTDC. Of course it will be a different FIXED ANGLE (DEG) for everyone.

 

Now just to clarify cause I was not to sure myself till I got it to work! On the CRANK PULLEY your NOT looking for the mark where you set you angle BTDC (E.G. 80DEG BTDC from your TDC mark.) You’re looking for your 0(DEG) TDC mark. ATLEAST, that is what I did and now everything is all good! Just thought I'd throw that in cause I’ve read so much and got that part confused when post talk about marking your BTDC.

 

 

One thing I learned…. just turning the crank back X amount (DEG) BTDC and loosening the DISTRIBUTOR to adjust it by hand till the LED lights up on the MS might not be enough. Take the distributor cap, rotor, and plate off so you can see what you distributor is doing. If your not a lucky as me to have a 300zx optical wheel make sure you mark your #1 CYL window before you start turning the crank back. I just used some white out and placed a dot as a mark to line up the next window.

 

Hope this helps anyone who’s having the same problem or mistake...

 

REISHOKIN240Z:mrgreen: