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MIG Welders


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I will be purchasing a MIG welder soon.

 

I will be fabricating a rotisserie, welding in a cage, floor pans and qtr panel and fender patch panels.

 

Could any of you with experience recommend which ones to look for for this? I don't want to go overboard on something I won't need (metal thickness capability).

 

I have already started checking into some welding classes at an area tech school....

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Guest Anonymous

I have a Clarke Mig at my shop and also a couple at my school where I teach. I think for the money they are a great deal, very satisfied. You can weld up to 3/16 with the small unit. If you needed more thickness, you just bevel the edges some more. Stick with a MIG ( gas) don't buy a gasless only unit! The good thing is JC Whitney sells this MIG. They are in Wisconcin, so parts are no problem.

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Guest Anonymous

I like the clark welders, I've also used Millers, Lincolns, Midwest and even a old Linde machine with a boom (motor and wire reel on the boom), I loved that setup and you could crank it up to 200+ amps. It feared no metal.

 

Anyway, for the cheaper welders, lincoln, miller, hobart, clark all make good home units. I bought the gasless lincoln and while it works great, I'd suggest gas as well, its cleaner and the welds are just much prettier.

 

Mine does have a gas option which I'll get, but save yourself the time and get some gas. Either argon/co2 or argon (I've used straight c02 and it worked fine (and it was cheap which the boss liked), I like it because it doesn't sputter like Argon does, but thats a personal preference. Argon makes a rather weird buzz by comparison, but if you want to mig aluminum (difficult without a spool gun)then you need straight argon).

 

110 volt is handy and makes it more portable, but your limited to your amperage (which is only important if your doing really thick stuff but ifs nice to have the extra should you need it). If I had a garage with 220 volts available, I'd have gone 220v. When you get into those welders you usually get a bit finer adjustment on the amperage as well which is useful. Generally more amperage is available in the 220v models as well.

 

Any of the domestic welders mentioned above has good parts availability and you can hardly go wrong with any of them.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

 

Ps: Another really handy welder to have in a 'dream' garage would be the old red lincoln buzz box stick welder. For some applications Stick works great and we used to cut with it too, crank it up to 150 amps with a good sized rod and blast through fairly thick steel, as long as the cut isn't super long, then things get hot fast. icon_smile.gif FWIW..

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Thanks for your responses guys - If only I could type in the wee hours I'd consider this question a success....

 

I too, have seen the one in JC Whitney and thought it a pretty good deal.

 

I guess I need to scope out the welding supply situation around me for the need to buy/rent tanks....

 

Thanks again!

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I almost bought an HTP welder but the price was an issue. I found a new Miller 135 (115 v) welder on sale locally for $450.00. I do buy lots of supplies, tools, etc. from HTP.

 

I found the new Miller requires less amps to do the same work as an older Miller 130 I had. I'm welding .095 wall tubing at 2.5 amps with good penetration and no drop through whereas the old Miller required 5 amps.

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Guest Williemite

Brad,

Buy the Hobart 110 unit it comes ready to weld with gas you will need a bottle of 75/25 Thats 75% argon and 25% Co2 its the best gas for yor money.."You will buy alot less grinding disks".

A complete Hobart 135 (made by Miller) with a bottle should cost less than $600.00. You won't be sorry.

If you have 220volts and $1200.00 The miller Matic 210 is the cats meow.It will weld 3/8's in one pass. If you buy one befor Jan. you will get a free spool-gun (great for welding aulminium). the 210 doe's not need a cart like the hobart.

I sell welding equipment everyday and these machines are great tools, they will last for years maybe decades.

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I bought at Hobart 135 last year for 425$ here locally and with a bottle and a 10lb spool of wire the cost was less than 600$ I even went back and got an argon bottle and a spool of aluminum wire..(make a really nice laundry room cart out of aluminum angle for my wife...) I really like it. I also have a big stick welder for thick stuff but for body work and general welding up to 3/8 it is great..... BTW the Hobart and the Miller are the same machine only the Hobart has a cheeper plastic front pannel...

 

Good luck you are joining the ranks of the z nut when you start to cut it apart and weld it back together......

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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest Anonymous

how hard is it to actually use a mig? i have access to a shop mig but i just dont know how to use it. should i take a class for it or buy my buddy lunch and he'll teach me

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Guest Anonymous

hey guys, well i'm glad to say that i finally managed to get a MIG welder icon_biggrin.gificon_cool.gif don't you just love christmas icon_rolleyes.gif . anyways it is a craftsman MIG that is set up to use a bottle and all that good stuff and luckily my cousin's BF is willing to teach me the finer points of welding. just a quick question what would be a good gas or blend of gasses to use for welding sheetmetal. what kind of wire would be the best to use for sheetmetal as well? come on guys tell me, tell me, tell me. i'm too happy right now.. whoo got to lay off the pepsi.

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Oooh. This might sound mean, but is it too late? What I mean to say is, is the welder returnable? Because I have not heard too many good things about the Craftsman welders. On the other hand, I have only ever heard good things about Lincoln from several people and have had mine for about 8 years now with ZERO problems (except for the time I was welding for like 10 hours straight and popped its internal circuit breaker but didn't realize it and stupidly took it back to the shop where they were kind enough not to make too much fun of me for not just seeing the popped breaker and pushing it back in icon_rolleyes.gif ).

 

That aside, the CO2/Argon mix is supposed to be the best. I've been using straight CO2 in my welder (the regulator I have is some cheapo thing that is female and supposedly only works with CO2 tanks which have a male valve). When I go to my friend's shop and use the same welder (Lincoln weldpak, my welder friend uses them exclusively for full on production work those things run about 80 hours a week, every week) but with CO2/Argon the welds come out much smoother and lay down nice and flat.

 

As to wire, if you get the giant spool (which is cheaper per foot), the copper coated stuff is good as it prevents corrosion (since unless you weld ALOT, you'll have that spool on there forever). BUT, it is a kind of a pain because it tends to bind up in the tip more often since that coating rubs off and makes things sticky. Otherwise, if you get the small, 5lb spools, just get plain wire.

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Guest Anonymous

My Lincoln mig was stolen and I replaced it with a Sears Craftsman.A nightmare! Sears supposedly rebuilt it twice. I gave up on it until a friend recommended going to a smaller wire. The piece of junk came with a larger diameter wire that it did not have the power or duty cycle to weld.After less than 5 minutes of welding the duty cycle runs out and the welding is bad. I am stuck with it. You cannot adjust the heat range. I eventually learned to weld with it but the wlder cannot keep up with me or what I need to get done. The little Lincoln was a weding fool. If you can take the toy welder back? ( I think mine was actually made by Century Welding) Hopefully your welder is an improved later model.Lincoln Hobart or Miller are good entry level welders in 120 volt. I paid $175.00 for the SEARS at a garage sale in new condition and reliazed after an attempt at serious welding why it was in new condition. It just could not weld like a Lincoln.

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Guest Anonymous

Boy am I glad I started this one - even if I couldn't type that night!

 

I've gotten a lot of input.

 

You're right that I am a nut - everyone thinks I'm crazy in my neighborhood. I've just always wanted to ground up a car and learn to weld.

 

I will ask a question that YoungZ asked - best way to learn to weld.

 

I found a tech school (North Metro Tech) in Acworth, GA that is relatively close, and will be calling them to discuss which course(s) to take, but am afraid the scheduling could be a problem - when the next available class is and how long I want to wait befor DOING SOMETHING!

 

The car is just waiting, but I really can't do anything until I can weld - the interior is already out (carpet, seats, upholstery panels, crummy radio, and I have the wiring about out - only the stuff that keeps it running legally (after I bolt the seat in).

 

I have already got zeddfindings floor pans (direct - he's great!) and rear qtr panel and patch panels for the front fenders to replace the rusted portions.

 

Just looking at the car and parts waiting to "get together" is starting to grate on me....

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Guest Anonymous

I do have nothing good to say about the Century welders, and if Craftsman uses them, then stay away. I will reiterate the fondness for the Clarke, At $339 with regulator, you will be pleased. I use the heck out of them.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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