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New to Zs (Somethings already broke) (long)


Astral Ace

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I used to have an '89 Supra Turbo, it got totaled as I was driving off base. Well, a week ago, I bought a '73 240 Z with 103894 miles on it. ($3500) The other day I was driving to work and I was on the highway in 4th gear when I heard a loud thump from under me. I thought I hit something (living in OK...).

 

Now the clutch won't either engage or disengage. I thought maybe it was the slave, so I got a new one. Didn't work. Got a new master, and that didn't work. And it's like too small or something, the pedal does't have the same travel as when the old one was up there. I tried bleeding it over and over. (my hands are gone) I'm not sure I was even doing it right.

 

I just noticed that I can move the fork easily, like jiggle it. Seems lose or something. I don't know what to do. I haven't dropped the tranny yet... but I will once I know what to look for. This will be my first tranny drop too... so ANY help will be appriciated. I just need to know what all I may need and I may also need a new clutch hard line.....

 

Thanks,

A1C Wilson

Support our troops.

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if you were able to bleeb all the air our of the the slave and it's not leaking then your harline is fine, you should be able to move the clutchfork a little by hand unless someone is pushing the pedal, once the pedal is pushed and the pushrod pushed the clutchfork,m you should not be able to move the fork by hand, it should be pretty firmly wedged pushing the tines of the pp, what worries me is you heard a pop and found no obvious casue? I woud have suspected somethign hit the salve and either busted ti or knocked the pushrod out, I had this happen to me once, but if there was no obvious damage then we have to assume it's an internal problem, were you n the clutch pedal when ti happened? jsut pushing in or just releasing? if the fork was not proppery installed it could have worked it's way off the to bearing?

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Sounds like the fork is either broken or disconnected if you can move it by hand.

 

Unfortunately that means you'd have to drop the tranny. It's easy if you have a transmission jack (49$ HF.)

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Sounds like the fork is either broken or disconnected if you can move it by hand.

 

Unfortunately that means you'd have to drop the tranny. It's easy if you have a transmission jack (49$ HF.)

 

Don't need no sticking tranny jack. A good, large floor jack works just fine. And if its the 4 speed, you just bench press it.

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Well, I bought a new clutch fork, t/o bearing springs, slave to hard line hose, and I'm trying to find a replacment boot for the fork to housing hole. Hopefully I've got what I need. I'm also going to replace the gear oil.

 

Any other suggestions on what I should bring to the party?

 

A1C Wilson

Support our troops.

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Don't need no sticking tranny jack. A good, large floor jack works just fine. And if its the 4 speed, you just bench press it.

 

You can come over here and do that when I change my flywheel next week. :P

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Now the clutch won't either engage or disengage.

 

I assume you mean it won't disengage, and you can only shift into or out of gear with the engine off? If the clutch wouldnt engage, then the position of the gearshift would never matter, you would always be in neutral.. The two statements are mutually exclusive.

 

Is it possible that your clutch plate shattered?? I nursed a dying clutch for the first year I was driving my Z, and when I finally wore it to the point of trashing the rivets holding the friction material to the sprung plate, my clutch was TOTALLY functionless.. I was about 1/4 mile and two left turns from my house, and I panicked and let the car coast to a stall.. (this was before I knew about synchro shifting) I wound up having some kid on a four wheeler push me from behind, with the transmission in first, while I bumped the starter, and just awkwardly drove home stuck in first.

 

However, one time I had to replace my clutch master and the store gave me one with a fork connecting to the pedal that was too short, and it resulted in the same situation, pushing the clutch pedal did not disengage the clutch. If you recently replaced the master, that might also be the problem.. this is somewhat related to the "broken pin at the top of the clutch pedal" someone mentioned already.

 

Seriously, though, my bet is shattered clutch plate. When they break they can essentially become wedged between the remaining sprung plate, and the pressure plate, and become impossible to disengage.

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Sorry for the stupid comment. It won't disengage. I can synchro shift all the way to 4th, but I am refraining to drive the car any. And the clutch is new, I have the receipt for it when he bought it.

 

I found a guy who has been messing with nothing but z's ever since the early 70's. He has 3 280z'x, 2 260z's, and 2 240z's. He also has a lot of older maxima's with the 5 speed tranny and all that. He's going to work on her, and help me out a lot.

 

Thanks a lot guys,

A1C Wilson

Support our troops.

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not much help, but unless it was particularly high quality even a "new" clutch disc COULD shatter.. not all parts are bulletproof, and I could imagine a possible situation (say someone drove a long distance with their foot resting on the clutch pedal) where the clutch disc may have been damaged in a way that it cracked. All it takes is one chunk of material in the wrong spot. BUT if it is new, then I am probably off-target.

 

No worries about the brain fart, it happens.. everything you described pointed towards "not disengaging" anyhow, I am just a stickler for clarity. My apologies for nit-picking.:2thumbs:

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