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HybridZ

Installing the MS-II


cygnusx1

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This is a continuation of the thread I started in Misc. Tech section. When I started, it was really a mechanical re-arrangement of intakes, filters, fuel lines, injectors.....

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120997&highlight=installing+MS-II

 

Now it has become an all out wiring/tuning battle so I am continuing the thread here.

 

This morning I got up at 7am after thinking all night about what lay ahead. I spent three hours in the garage pretty much staring at wires. Old ones, new ones, mystery ones? It was very depressing. I started ripping out old wiring I had done for the initial L28ET swap, analyzing what wires did what and went where! I was very confused. Then I thought about all the wiring I had to do. I had to step away. I went to draw a wiring diagram and got even more frustrated. Ugggh. This is going to be painful. After tossing around a billion ideas I finally decided to get off my brain and let my hands do some work. I made the executive decision to pull the drivers seat and mount all the hardware under it. Then I put in another three hours of work.

 

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It's all screwed down to a lexan plate and the front of the ECU is accessible from under the front of the seat. I realize that changing and inspecting fuses is going to be a pain but at least I can run all my wiring to-and-from the same area. I am going to run a big fat ground wire from the engine block to the ground rail you see there. All my hot in's and out's are going though the fuse block. The main relay will tie to the ign switch and it's ground will be a hidden kill switch. The fuel pump relay will power the O2, Coil, Pump, and the E-Fan. The main relay will power the ECU, and Injectors.

 

Does it look like it will work? My brain still hasn't fully wrapped around it yet? Does anyone think that the length of the MAP sensor tube is too long?

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It is a daunting task at first, but stick with it. Be meticulous in your work, and it will pay off.

 

That is a good place for the ECU, but as you know, checking the fuses will be a pain. Move them now while it is easy to do.

 

The MAP hose is fine. I have the MS on the tunnel between the seats in the race car, and it works fine.

 

Also, buy some new relays, they are cheap and you can get new sockets and harnesses for them.

 

A 10 GA wire is all you need from the battery to you ground terminal block.

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OK I bought all the wiring, connectors, shrink tubing, fuses....here are the diagrams I am going to wire to.

 

There is a GROUND diagram and a POWER diagram. I also included a trace diagram of the 76Z Fusible links. I was thinking of pulling power through one of the fusible links for the MS-II system. Which fusible link circuit would have enough capacity for the MS-II if any?

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MS-II-pwr_thumb.jpg

76-F-links_thumb.jpg

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You can use either fusable link, or just go right to the battery. I suggest using a automatic resetable 40A circuit breaker instead of a fuse. Also, 20A on the MS is too high. 5A-10A should be fine.

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cygnusx1, I'm following right behind you. Tomorrow I pick up a roll of steel fuel line and then I'll have collected all the parts I need to convert my 73 from carbs to FI via MS. I've already built up the intake manifold and the relay board. This weekend I need to build up the MS board, and then begin doing the fuel routing swap.

 

I'm also going to use a bosch PWM air valve to let MS control the idle. Not sure if I'll hook that up right away, or maybe add once I've got the engine running. But it's all mounted and ready to go.

http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/P1040603_Medium_.JPG

 

It's turning out to be a bigger project than I orignially expected due to all the little fittings, hoses, etc that I've had to source. Please keep posting any pictures and your experiences. I'm glad to learn from your experience and put it immediately to good use :)

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It seems like everytime I do some work, I need to go shopping again! Sometimes I wish I lived in a McMaster warehouse. It looks like you are well under way too. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you. Keep us in the loop.

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OK did some wiring today. I ran 10gauge power and ground leads directly from the battery to the ECU center under my seat. I also did all the power and logic wiring for the ECU control board.

 

I am taking this opportunity to replace the battery with a reverse polarity Optima 34R. That's why you see my positive lead on the negative post of the battery (temporary).

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Well, I was able to get some affordable wiring from Home Depot to offset the cost of the new Optima battery. Wiring should resume tonight. The battery I got is an Optima 34R. The R stands for reverse polarity. This is a nice upgrade as it moves the positive post out from under the right fender. Why did Nissan put that hot post so close to sheetmetal? I'll never know. The Optima 34R puts out 800cca and fits exactly like a stock battery. You need the optima height adapter. In my case, the adapter was included with the battery. I will post some more photos tonight or tomorrow.

 

I am going to accelerate progress as I want to try to make the Hemming's Motor News car show up at Limerock, CT on the 27th. Not sure if I'll make it but I'm going to pull out some stops.

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ALL of the harnesses are fabricated and in the car where they will run. I have to go around and tie them up. It actually came out cleaner in the engine bay than I thought. I am on a coffee break. Next will be cutting and crimping!

 

The garage has become an absolute mess. I took some photos around the garage so you can see all the crap I have laying around. If you see anything you might want or need just ask some of it might be for sale. There is a ton of crap.....the car is NOT for sale. I would never be able to part with all my labor dollars.

 

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Optima Reverse Post

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It's going to be a BIG cleanup once the Z is self powered again! Thank God for gravity!

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Check out my faceplate for the Megaview-II kit and the Calibration button and LED for the wideband O2 sensor.

 

It's made of clear lexan with the front finished in black wrinkle paint. I masked off a window for the display.

 

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The red square button on the bottom is a compressor kick-in button for the A/C. I have it setup so I can run A/C with heat...for defogging reasons.

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Light at the end of the tunnel! Last night I finished all the interior wiring. I ran dedicated power and grounds for each sensor and component. All the power wires, ground wires, and sensor wires are connected to the central location under the drivers seat. The Megaview display and LC-1 wideband unit are all mounted and wired. I carefully hooked up the battery for the first time in two months and CLICK the main relay came on and the system powered up! I hooked up the stim board and the Megaview is displaying parameters! It looks like I got all the wires right. All I need to do now is to solder/crimp all the flying leads in the engine bay. I am looking forward to turning the key this weekend and tuning!

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It runs!!!!

 

Cranked it over, adjusted the trigger angle while cranking and stumbling, shifted and transformed VE table around to get it to idle. Picked up a leak at the thermostat housing....I guess I gotta let it cool down and change the gasket.

 

I am very happy.

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Hey, great new! I'm not far behind, just need to finish the surge tank install at the back and I'm ready to crank over as well. Last night I verified that the MS reads all the sensors. I'm sure it's a great feeling for you - looking to have the same feeling shortly :)

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