Hopelessly Confused Posted May 12, 2007 Share Posted May 12, 2007 Hey guys, I drove my car around the block today but while I drove it I noticed that while in drive the car had very little power I had to rev the engine up some to get it to move. It seems to work fine in reverse. Its a LT1/4l60e combo. Any suggestions would be very helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted May 12, 2007 Share Posted May 12, 2007 Drive it in reverse. Its a little hard on the neck, but it can be done...Just kidding. Is it shifting through all the forward gears? If you leave it in low does it stay in low? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hopelessly Confused Posted May 12, 2007 Author Share Posted May 12, 2007 umm, I dont know if it would shift because I couldnt get it to go fast enough. I havent tried it in low yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David K Posted May 12, 2007 Share Posted May 12, 2007 Is it similar to a slipping clutch having to rev the engine high, or is it like you are driving with your parking brake on? The same thing happened to my 89 IROC. I ended up replacing the 700r4 and the Tq convertor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hopelessly Confused Posted May 12, 2007 Author Share Posted May 12, 2007 its more like driving with your parking break on. Would this happen if I didnt have enough tranny fluid? Becuase im having a hard time figuring out if I have enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted May 13, 2007 Share Posted May 13, 2007 Start the car and let it warm up, drive a short distance, if you can, then park it, cycle the shifter through all the positions, leave it in neutral and running then check the fluid level. Once the tranny is warm and while the engine is running the fluid should be at the full mark. You could be low on fluid, have bad connections between the PCM and the tranny or the tranny might be shot. The tranny is from a Caprice right? If it's an ex-cop car the tranny might be in bad shape. The car I got my engine from was a retired cop car, 3rd gear was totally gone. When the tranny "shifted" into 3rd the engine would rev, grab a little, rev some more, grab a little bit more and then nothing. To get it home I had to shift to 2nd, get up to about 50mph and the go right to 4th which would cause the tranny to skip 3rd gear. Is that sort of how yours acts? If you give it gas the engine will rev but the car doesn't accelerate, if you rev higher you feel a jerk and the car takes off but never really accelerates very fast. If that's how it's acting then the tranny is slipping and probably needs more fluid or a rebuild. Don't drive it very much while it's acting that way or you'll burn the clutches and/or the bands which definitely means a rebuild. When you pull the tranny dip-stick is the fluid red or a reddish brown/black? Is there even fluid on the dipstick? Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hopelessly Confused Posted May 13, 2007 Author Share Posted May 13, 2007 Yeah, this drivetrain is from a caprice. I dont believe that it was from a cop car because im pretty sure that they all came with those green radiator hoses and mine didnt. But as far as its acting it just seems that I can rev the engine but the car doesnt accelerate very much. I dont think I have gotten fast enough for it to even try to shift. The fluid is red becuase when I was putting the engine it all leaked out so I had to replace it all, and there was some fluid on the dipstick before I tried driving it. When I checked it after I drove it it looked kind of frothy on the dipstick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickinback88 Posted May 13, 2007 Share Posted May 13, 2007 im dealing with that now in my 94 roadmaster. 2nd, 3rd and od are fine, but 1st is like putting your foot in pudding. 2 (likely) possibilities. clutch pack is going out-thats my problem, even though reverse is fine- or if you overheated the valve body could be stuck. more likely the first, though. hope this helps! -ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hopelessly Confused Posted May 14, 2007 Author Share Posted May 14, 2007 By chance does anyone know how many quarts it takes to fill the 4l60E? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 Start out with 4, then start the engine and cycle the transmission though the gears, let it warm up, put it in park and check the level. If it's low add 1/2 quart, check again and repeat until its full. Cycle the gears each time to ensure the valve body passages all get filled. I'm not sure about a 4L60E but the auto in my daughter's mustang ended up wanting about 6 quarts from totally empty. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hopelessly Confused Posted May 15, 2007 Author Share Posted May 15, 2007 hmm, I was just wondering becuase I have put around 8~9 quarts in it already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 What do you mean by the fluid looks "frothy"? Do you mean it has bubbles in it/foamy? Overfilling it can do that. Do like bart said and check your fluid with the car in Neutral and warmed up. You should be right in the middle of "hot" marking(anywhere in that marking is ok). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hopelessly Confused Posted May 15, 2007 Author Share Posted May 15, 2007 Yeah, I meant that it had airbubbles in it. But it doesnt have any now that I have added more fluid. When I have the car at idle it seems to be in the hot range and I still have the problem so im worried my tranny might be bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hopelessly Confused Posted May 16, 2007 Author Share Posted May 16, 2007 Hey guys will you guys watch this video to see if my engine sounds like its running right. It sounds like the timing is off. When you rev it it makes popping sounds with you let off the throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Are you sure all the plug wires are on the correct plugs? It sounds like either several of the wires are on the wrong plug, baddly burned or not connected at all. Are the plug wires new? What about the plugs, have you pulled them to check condition and gap? If they're new what plugs are you using? I found 2 burned wires that caused a rough idle and slight vibration by turning off all the lights in the garage and looking for arcing. You'll see a nice blue electric arc if a wire is burned. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hopelessly Confused Posted May 16, 2007 Author Share Posted May 16, 2007 Im pretty sure that I have the spark plug wires hooked up right, but ill check again tonight. They are new spark plug wires and spark plugs. The wires are Taylor full metal jacket wires and the plugs are some kind of Bosh plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Firebat Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 If you have the bosch plugs with 3 electrodes, then get rid of them, they aren't good. Get some NGK TR55's. Or get AC Delco Platinums if you want a little less power but don't want to change them for another 100,000 miles. Having a bad map sensor will cause crazy things to happen like maybe a backfire. Also check out the map sensor connector, if its bad then replace it or tie a ziptie around it to secure it to the map sensor. Spark plug wire diagram: http://shbox.com/1/opti.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 If you have the bosch plugs with 3 electrodes, then get rid of them, they aren't good. AW GEEZE, that figures, I just bought those. Haven't fired the engine up yet but the boxes are long gone so taking them back is not an option. Why do you say they aren't any good? Not even for normal street use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Firebat Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 AW GEEZE, that figures, I just bought those. Haven't fired the engine up yet but the boxes are long gone so taking them back is not an option. Why do you say they aren't any good? Not even for normal street use? Platinum is only for longevity not performance. Multiple electrodes is a marketting gimmick. They would probably be ok but they aren't worth the extra money. The ngk tr55's are copper and will wear down faster but give more power. The NGK's only cost a $1 or $2 a piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Platinum is only for longevity not performance. Multiple electrodes is a marketting gimmick. They would probably be ok but they aren't worth the extra money. The ngk tr55's are copper and will wear down faster but give more power. The NGK's only cost a $1 or $2 a piece. Well, we'll see how it goes since I already have them, they were a bit more costly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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