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Compression Rod Mounts X Brace?


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A while ago, someone (RB30-ZED?) mentioned that he had improved braking stability by fitting a brace attached to the body comp rod mounts. Now that my big brakes are working well, under heavy braking the car feels like it wants to dart to either side, although it doesn't. The comp rod pads are OK so I'm thinking there is some deflection in the comp rod mounting area which is changing the wheel alignment.

 

Any such brace would have to be removable, so I'm considering welding attachment brackets to the rod mount areas on the body and bolting the brace to them. Sound OK? Use thin wall tube for the brace, say around 1.5" (40 mm) diameter? BTW, the comp rods are adjustable for caster and are heavier than than the stock items.

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This would be cool, but when designing the mounting points, take into account that you want to have something other than bolt shear as the method for keeping the TC brackets in place.

Also, I'm pretty sure this tube will need to be bent. A bent tube in compression ALWAYS flexes/bends. So make it as beefy as you can to have it do any good.

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The book "How to Hot Rod and Race your Datsun" has a section on chassis stiffining for the 240. They don't give a lot of detail, but they to show a LOT of picture of a BRE (I think) modified race car. One thing they did highlight was the bracing added to the TC mount. If memory serves me they formed a piece of sheet metal to overlap the TC bracket where it mounts to the frame rail (while extending well onto the rail). The sheet metal was then welded in place essentially doubling the thickness of the stock unibody.

 

Seemed like a straight forward mod. Not sure how this would be "removable". You must have a different method in mind.

 

Maybe RB30-ZED could post a picture of his mod (if it was him)?

 

BTW, I was hoping to get some good roll cage ideas from the book above a, but the tubing on the all out race machine shown in the book was too overwhelming for a me.

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Thanks all for your assistance. Hadn't thought about not having the bolts in shear, so thankyou Pete. Those pictures you posted Dave are very useful, looks like a X brace could be bolted straight on to the existing metal.

 

With my engine, there is sufficient clearance under the sump to run a straight brace from one side to the other.

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