Careless Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 From what I can tell, that one is built identically to the Z32 CAS. even the mounting tabs? here's a different pic of the RB one, located on Nismoparts.com I've noticed that an easy way to check if you have the easy to modify version is that the red ring that seals the unit denotes that it is not press fit. Atleast from comparing all these 3 pictures anyways. The difficult one looks to have a rounded edge on the sealing/bearing ring. However, the housing on this one seems to be different. It has slotted holes rather than standard ones. weiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiird. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z U L8R Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 i'm running power fc. before i would only get 6800 redline, i got the base timing right on the money 15 and it'd go 73-7400 np right now. the only thing is second gear seems like it only gets 6900 SOMETIMES, usually when the motor has just warmed up to operating temp, then the rest of the gears clears 7 no problems. do you think i'm having a cas issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 i'm running power fc. before i would only get 6800 redline, i got the base timing right on the money 15 and it'd go 73-7400 np right now. the only thing is second gear seems like it only gets 6900 SOMETIMES, usually when the motor has just warmed up to operating temp, then the rest of the gears clears 7 no problems. do you think i'm having a cas issue? well lets put it into perspective. 1st gear, you probably don't stretch because you'd just roast the tires... second gear you can push, because in reality, it's the strongest useable gear you can stretch, so that probably puts some strain on the belt tension, and makes it expand a bit more, due to faster acceleration and torque build up. 3rd and 4th, and 5th probably don't see the same strain on the high-rpm parts, so i'd say it's highly possible. Belt flap is what causes the cas to track back a couple of holes on the 360 phase. and I've seen some videos with RB's with clear covers and no covers, and those belts flap quite a bit from what i've noticed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z U L8R Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 ahhhh, yeah that makes sense. so the problem is theres 360 little holes with the stock trigger wheel, and the remedy is the new one with xxx holes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted June 23, 2007 Administrators Share Posted June 23, 2007 so the problem is theres 360 little holes with the stock trigger wheel, and the remedy is the new one with xxx holes? A good way to attack this is what Wolf call's Reference+Sync. This involves running a crank and cam sensor. The crank sensor provides the accuracy, while the cam sensor provides the sync pulse for which event cylinder one is on. For example, running a 12 or 36 toothed wheel on the crank damper with a single tooth on the cam... the single tooth has no direct influence on timing, so it can 'scatter' to some degree, while the crank sensor is providing accurate positional information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted June 23, 2007 Administrators Share Posted June 23, 2007 even the mounting tabs? Z32 CAS... look familiar?... . . Tamper resistant screws.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted June 23, 2007 Share Posted June 23, 2007 those bastards! so how does one remove those screws? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted June 23, 2007 Administrators Share Posted June 23, 2007 so how does one remove those screws? Drill them out from the front side and re-tap larger for re-assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 Drill them out from the front side and re-tap larger for re-assembly. cheerio! i wonder if the mastercraft "grab-bit" would work on that too. mind you they arent they best tool, always a "best 2 out of 3" ordeal with them, but it would make the job a lot easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo_fb Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 A system called VEMS (alot like MS) is also having trouble with theese smal holes. Atleast it's not to hard to change the wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z U L8R Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 a little off topic, i got my autometer tach working perfectly MSD part # 8918 = $30 Tach signal pick up, clip it to the thick white ignition coil power wire. upon my tach not reading fubar at high rpm's off the 120 degree cam signal wire, tach working accurately i get 7300 with ease in every gear hot or cold. i could never get the $75 tach adapter to work, this other pickup= half price and works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest deviouskA Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 I discussed a little bit about this here, http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=254146 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z U L8R Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 I discussed a little bit about this here, http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=254146 ♥♥♥♥......you know your electronics LOL, breakin it down like a mofo. i love theory and operation. +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 I discussed a little bit about this here, http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=254146 Wow......... thats deep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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