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CAS Trigger Wheel Fix for AEM EMS Released


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From what I can tell, that one is built identically to the Z32 CAS.

 

even the mounting tabs?

 

here's a different pic of the RB one, located on Nismoparts.com

 

rbcamsensor.jpg

 

I've noticed that an easy way to check if you have the easy to modify version is that the red ring that seals the unit denotes that it is not press fit. Atleast from comparing all these 3 pictures anyways. The difficult one looks to have a rounded edge on the sealing/bearing ring.

 

However, the housing on this one seems to be different. It has slotted holes rather than standard ones.

 

weiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiird.

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i'm running power fc. before i would only get 6800 redline, i got the base timing right on the money 15 and it'd go 73-7400 np right now. the only thing is second gear seems like it only gets 6900 SOMETIMES, usually when the motor has just warmed up to operating temp, then the rest of the gears clears 7 no problems. do you think i'm having a cas issue?

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i'm running power fc. before i would only get 6800 redline, i got the base timing right on the money 15 and it'd go 73-7400 np right now. the only thing is second gear seems like it only gets 6900 SOMETIMES, usually when the motor has just warmed up to operating temp, then the rest of the gears clears 7 no problems. do you think i'm having a cas issue?

 

well lets put it into perspective.

 

1st gear, you probably don't stretch because you'd just roast the tires... second gear you can push, because in reality, it's the strongest useable gear you can stretch, so that probably puts some strain on the belt tension, and makes it expand a bit more, due to faster acceleration and torque build up.

 

3rd and 4th, and 5th probably don't see the same strain on the high-rpm parts, so i'd say it's highly possible.

 

Belt flap is what causes the cas to track back a couple of holes on the 360 phase. and I've seen some videos with RB's with clear covers and no covers, and those belts flap quite a bit from what i've noticed.

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so the problem is theres 360 little holes with the stock trigger wheel, and the remedy is the new one with xxx holes?

 

A good way to attack this is what Wolf call's Reference+Sync. This involves running a crank and cam sensor. The crank sensor provides the accuracy, while the cam sensor provides the sync pulse for which event cylinder one is on.

 

For example, running a 12 or 36 toothed wheel on the crank damper with a single tooth on the cam... the single tooth has no direct influence on timing, so it can 'scatter' to some degree, while the crank sensor is providing accurate positional information.

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Drill them out from the front side and re-tap larger for re-assembly.

 

cheerio! i wonder if the mastercraft "grab-bit" would work on that too.

mind you they arent they best tool, always a "best 2 out of 3" ordeal with them, but it would make the job a lot easier.

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a little off topic, i got my autometer tach working perfectly

 

MSD part # 8918 = $30 Tach signal pick up, clip it to the thick white ignition coil power wire.

 

upon my tach not reading fubar at high rpm's off the 120 degree cam signal wire, tach working accurately i get 7300 with ease in every gear hot or cold.

 

i could never get the $75 tach adapter to work, this other pickup= half price and works

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