Minimize Lean for AutoX

[Bartman]

Hey Bartman, After waiting a month finally got the ST bar kit last week (1" front and 3/4 rear early style) and installed it using these tips. Checking suspension movement and looking for binding. Ended up using 3/8 alum shims between uprights and bushings and .06 shims under the bushing clamps. Added the grease fittings too. I'm not running cv's but what I wanted to say is that I feel these tips really did prove to be effective and worth the extra time to do. More than anything it made the car drive much straighter at higher freeway speeds. The rear end is compliant as it was but the car has a more confident feel. So thanks Jon and Johnc for the info as I would have never figured that one out myself. The front I was not too impressed with the bushing clamps. Without shimming these bushings will be over stressed and distort tremendously! Used .10 shims on the front and added grease zerks. Also had to grind down the bar ends to clear the non-sectioned strut tubes while on jacks at full droop. No big deal really. It appears the oem front bar has similar features to accomodate for this, so it might be something to watch out for when installing any aftermarket bars. The front frame rails are still oem but I don't plan to autox the car anytime soon. Heck i'm just happy its off the jackstands. Everyones setup is unique but I hope maybe some of this will help you what I experienced.

 

Brian

Thanks for posting up your experience with installing the ST bars. It will be a while before mine are delivered, but this is good information to use when they arrive.

 

If you, or anyone else, could post up pic's that would be very helpful; especially showing the zerks you installed. And where are you getting these spacers from?

[buZy]

Ok here is the rear bar pic. The spacers are custom made from 3/8 alum plate. You can get a small piece at your local metal scrap yard cheap. Profiled to fully support the bushing with two clearance holes drilled through. They were not difficult to create.

 

Brian

 

[Bartman]

Ok here is the rear bar pic. The spacers are custom made from 3/8 alum plate. You can get a small piece at your local metal scrap yard cheap. Profiled to fully support the bushing with two clearance holes drilled through. They were not difficult to create.

 

Brian

 

Thanks that really helps me understand what was being discussed. I hope to have mine delivered and installed soon.

[Bartman]

My ST bars arrived on Friday and I'm starting the installation. The rear is very close to the outer CVs.

Maybe shortening the end link will give me the room I need. So I can shorten the spacer and just get a shorter bolt? How short can the spacer be and what grade hardware do I need for the replacement?

[buZy]

My ST bars arrived on Friday and I'm starting the installation. The rear is very close to the outer CVs.

Maybe shortening the end link will give me the room I need. So I can shorten the spacer and just get a shorter bolt? How short can the spacer be and what grade hardware do I need for the replacement?

 

Bartman, where did you get those adj arms? Have yet to see that particular design.

 

Brian

[Bartman]

Bartman, where did you get those adj arms? Have yet to see that particular design.

 

Brian

I bought them from HybridZ member tim240Z. As far as I know he custom made them and they are the only set he ever made.

[wheelman]

Bart,

I'm using the MSA rear bar and shortened my endlinks to provide clearence to the CV joints. I took about 1/2" out of the spacer and used the bolts that came with them. They hang down below the control arm a little but worked fine. You'd have to look at how much thread is available to tighten them down once you've cut the spacer to see if you even need to replace the bolts.

 

It's a little hard to see just how close things are on your car but you could get some tubing of the same size as the spacer and then experiment. Be sure to look at the clearances at full droop and compression before deciding on a length.

 

Wheelman