buZy Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 Ok I am doing a brake upgrade. AZC both front and rears. 12.2 inch with 4 piston wilwoods. Also installing the adjustable wilwood proportioning valve inside the cockpit. My question is do I also retain the 71z oem rear brake proportioning valve? In other words...The rear brake line from the 79-81zx master cylinder....to the adjustable wilwood valve....then to the 71z oem bias valve....to the "T" fitting....from the "T" to the calipers. Correct? Sorry for breaking this down so direct but I just want to get it right, the first time. Daves online installation instructions are not to clear in this area. Again thanks everyone! Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted June 16, 2007 Share Posted June 16, 2007 No Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buZy Posted June 16, 2007 Author Share Posted June 16, 2007 No? Ok could someone explain that in more detail?? anyone? I am not a expert at this stuff and could use some help. Here is how the azc reads: Here's a typical installation of the adjustable proportioning valve along with the hydraulic line lock for the parking brake function. The stock proportioning valve has been retained and the rear brake line has been brought from it along side the trans tunnel to the new valves and then out through the floor to the splitter over differential. http://www.arizonazcar.com/rearz4luginstall.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted June 17, 2007 Share Posted June 17, 2007 If I am reading this correctly, you are using an adjustable proportioning valve, the purpose of which is to replace the OEM valve with an adjustable valve. I believe the general thought is that using two proportioning valves in series is NOT recommended. Here's a typical installation of the adjustable proportioning valve along with the hydraulic line lock for the parking brake function. Personally, I think it is unwise to recommend a line lock to replace the emergency brake. Even the slightest of leak will result in a very rapid pressure loss (incompressible fluids), resulting in no "emergency brake". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buZy Posted June 17, 2007 Author Share Posted June 17, 2007 Thank you Terry. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted June 17, 2007 Share Posted June 17, 2007 One more note. On the site you linked to, the mention of the OEM proportioning valve ahead of the new valve makes me wonder if the writer is thinking of the fluid warning switch on the firewall, and not a proportioning valve. I always thought the proportioning valve was in the rear of the car, and not up front (except for those built into the master cylinder on the really late model ZXs). Can someone clarify this for me (for us)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rztmartini Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 The stock Prop. valve is in the rear right before the "T", it has a big nut looking thing on it. the easiest thing to do is to disconnect the line from MC to Prop valve, disconnect the prop valve to T and bend the line to connect the MC to T. its pretty easy to do, no need for a tube bender or whatever. Suggestion: get a 10mm flare nut wrench and use vice grips around that when breaking the flare nuts loose...works like a charm and you save yourself from having the cut and re-flare the ends when you strip the nut. after 30+ years those nuts are attached pretty darn tight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 I agree with the flare nut wrench idea, $17.00 for a wrench isn't that bad when you look at how much everything else costs :| Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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