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Distributor Question


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Does it appear to be some type of aftermarket performance distributor or are we talking original GM stuff?

 

GM had 2 types of distributors that are most used on small blocks prior to about '89.

 

Points and HEI. The Points distributor had about a 3 1/2" diameter cap, with 8 terminals for the plug wires and one in the middle for the coil wire. If this is what you have, there should also be a condenser (looks like a little metal barrel with a wire coming out of one end....the condenser is about 1 inch long by 1/2" diameter) screwed down right next to the points...visible after you remove the distributor cap. The one wire coming off the points hooks up to the negative coil terminal.

 

HEI distributors have huge caps...about 7" around, with only 8 terminals on top for the plug wires, and a big squarish thing in the middle of the terminals....this is the coil. There is no external coil on an HEI. On one side of the cap, there is a square plastic protrusion that houses 5 female spade connectors. The 3 closest to the cap are coil, breaker, and ground connections, the two farthest from the cap are for the Tach and key hot. they are labeled if you look at the top of the cover.

 

From what you are describing, you've got a points distributor.

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Just a recap on how a points ignition works, etc. Sorry if you knew this:

 

What LeeMS is saying is that the case of the coil is actually insulated from the winding, and it is connected to one end of the secondary winding (the winding that gets routed through the distributor rotor to the plug wires and plugs).

 

The points, when closed, complete the primary winding coil circuit by connecting the (-) negative side of the coil primary winding to ground through the point contacts, the points body, the plate the points are bolted to, the distributor body, the intake manifold and/or engine block, and then the ground strap to the chassis and then to the negative side of the battery. The other side of the coil (+) primary winding is connected to switched positive battery voltage. When the points open, the back emf in the primary winding induces a high voltage in the secondary winding of the coil. The coil body is connected to one side of this winding (which gets grounded to the engine and ultimately connects to the battery and alternator (-) negative connections. The other side of the secondary winding is connected to the center tower receptical on the coil, that has the "rotor" wire connected to it and the center of the distributor cap. From there the rotor takes the spark voltage to another post on the cap and the spark plug wire takes it to the plug center electrode. The casing of the sparkplug is obviously grounded to the cylinder head, which connects electrically to the block and the chassis to be connected ultimately to the battery and alternator (-) terminals.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Anyway, the single wire from the distributor bottom connects to the coil (-) terminal, a switched battery (+) voltage wire connects to the (+) terminal. Don't run a ground wire to anything but the case of the coil and the distributor body, but those things are usually well grounded if an engine-to-chassis ground strap is in place.

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The easiest way to determine what kind of distrubitor you have is to look at the connection, if it is a sockect on the cap it's points, if it's a sockect on the wire it's an HEI, and I do beleive the single black wire goes to the negative side of coil like pparaska said at least that's the way my 240 is wired.

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Glad you're not hurt! One good lesson learned AWAYS stand on the side of a vehicle when working on a running or possibly running engine. Also good to have a fire extinguisher and a friend standing by, Now about body work......

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I've had people give me a hard time about wanting to hook up a clutch or neutral safety switch on manual swaps. Your experience is not singular by any stretch of the imagination. I KNOW I'm stupid enough to at some point hit the key when it's not in neutral.

 

Did you ever get it to fire?

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Yeah, it fired up good. Thats how it hit the wall. Umm the problem was that when I turned the key for the starter the relay I had powering the coil lost power. So I hooked up the coil straight to the battery, I thought I had broke something so I didnt take many safety percautions. I had also put way to much gas in the carberautor so when it started the back wheels did a little burnout and then slamed into the wall. Luckily the truck was only about 2 feet away so it didnt have much speed.

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