Shift Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 So what is the best way to remove the lenses off a 280z? I'm trying to produce a working model LED replacement panel. If it bolds well I might be selling these. After field testing of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 I think the 280Z and 260Z work the same as the 240Z. The lenses are held on with a type of adhesive. You need to carefully pry them apart and it works easier if you soak it first in hot water to help soften up the glue/sealant. Take your time so that you don't crack or break the lense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 On my car I just pulled them apart - the glue was old and dried out and not really doing anything. It was a PITA to clean it out of the channel though for re-assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 I'm wondering how everyone cleaned out the channel, it's a bitch to get it all out of there, im using a heat gun and some goo-gone, but its not that great. its good for removing residue off the lenses, and it does also crack them at some points. so if anyone has any tricks? I'm LED'in them =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uccreepanddrums Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 my friend put his headlight assembly on a tiburon in the oven for a bit......i know it sounds strange but it worked with ease, i will have to ask him specifically how long and what temp....maybe this will work for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jknc90 Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 240hoke did a thread about cleaning the taillights in which he told how to remove them etc. Just search, you'll find it. It wasn't very long ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280Zone Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 When I did my LED conversion, I heated up the edges of the tail lights to soften the glue. Then SLOWLY pry them out. I then did my modification and then reheated the glue and pressed them back in by hand. go Slowly with each step, so you don't melt your tail light lens. The LED conversion wass the easy part, the tail light disassembly and reassembly is time consumer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garvice Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 I used a small flat head screwdriver and my left hand (read: I held the light assembly with my left hand and on more than one occassion, ok about 7 or 8 times, slipped with the screw driver and pierced or came close to piercing my left hand). Seriously though its a PITA. The oven trick works, BUT BE CAREFULL, your working with old plastic, i found the plastic on my 260z lights were a lot more brittle behind the clear light than the red and amber light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 240hoke did a thread about cleaning the taillights in which he told how to remove them etc. Just search, you'll find it. It wasn't very long ago. searched through almost all his threads he started, couldn't find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shift Posted July 15, 2007 Author Share Posted July 15, 2007 When I did my LED conversion, I heated up the edges of the tail lights to soften the glue. Then SLOWLY pry them out. I then did my modification and then reheated the glue and pressed them back in by hand. go Slowly with each step, so you don't melt your tail light lens. The LED conversion wass the easy part, the tail light disassembly and reassembly is time consumer. Just to clearify. The LED lights I'm building are going to have a scanner effect to them. So collums of LEDs lighting up in phase from the inside out on all 4 corners. I'm etching my own PCBs and programming everything myself using Basic2 stamp chips. EDIT: I, also didn't find the thread mentioned earlier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 Just to clearify. The LED lights I'm building are going to have a scanner effect to them. So collums of LEDs lighting up in phase from the inside out on all 4 corners. I'm etching my own PCBs and programming everything myself using Basic2 stamp chips. EDIT: I, also didn't find the thread mentioned earlier why are you etching your own pcb? when you file and cut those brown pcb boards that have no cladding on the back, you can literally join each LED terminal to eachother cause they're so close. or you can use the ones that have cladding on each hole to secure them down (non linked cladding, obviously) and connect them through soldering a thin line from hole to hole (im sure you're good at soldering if you're going all out). the PCB shape is literally almost square. but i guess if you have a sweeping motion, it requires some lights to trigger before others or something? there is also a program on the net that allows you to choose how many LEDs you need and how to wire them up with which resistors and where to put them, after you input the data for your LED's, like amperage, forward voltage, and required voltage, and all that poo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wickiewicked240z Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 when i had my 240sx i put my silvia headlights in the oven to soften the glue it works great just don't leave them to long. as for the 240z taillights the glue was so dried up that i just used a screw driver to take the lens out also try to used a razor knife around the edge of the lens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shift Posted July 15, 2007 Author Share Posted July 15, 2007 why are you etching your own pcb? when you file and cut those brown pcb boards that have no cladding on the back, you can literally join each LED terminal to eachother cause they're so close. or you can use the ones that have cladding on each hole to secure them down (non linked cladding, obviously) and connect them through soldering a thin line from hole to hole (im sure you're good at soldering if you're going all out). the PCB shape is literally almost square. but i guess if you have a sweeping motion, it requires some lights to trigger before others or something? there is also a program on the net that allows you to choose how many LEDs you need and how to wire them up with which resistors and where to put them, after you input the data for your LED's, like amperage, forward voltage, and required voltage, and all that poo. Not quite understanding me. Basic stamp 2 is a programmable micro processor that can be programmed using basic on a computer. the effect I am going for is a scanner effect light something like knightrider, but just in once motion. As far as PCB goes. If you are designing your own board, then you can cut it any shape you want (as long as its flat) What I'm using to design my board is Eagle CAD. http://blip.tv/file/get/Make-MakeYourOwnPrintedCircuitBoardsOnALaserPrinter873.flv BTW. does anyone know what the ligth sequence is on the tail lights (like upper are turn signals, bottom = brakes, white are reverse. ect.) There is a dual filiment bulb on the upper one towards the center. I need to Know what triggers the high and low on that one. Thanx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jknc90 Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 searched through almost all his threads he started, couldn't find. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104585&highlight=taillight+clean I searched for "taillight clean" It was the 7th one down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted July 16, 2007 Share Posted July 16, 2007 I searched for "taillight clean" It was the 7th one down I see. I searched for 240hoke's posts and didnt see that. But it doesnt contain the info I wanted anyways. I'm curious to know how we get the goo out of the channel that keeps the lights in place and seals them. I can only get so much out of there, and i think it's going to get in the way of new sealant. 78zlt1 had posted his method for doing it, but I've tried that too, and even with a heat gun to heat it up, and i dont find it clean enough. Maybe it was the cold weather that made it hard to remove. I'll try again this week =) thanks for the link! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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