naviathan Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 Exactly as the title says. If I hold the accelerator down to kick it into flood clear it acts like it's going to start, otherwise it just floods. MS-II running fuel only stock everything except cam and header. Help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 20, 2007 Author Share Posted July 20, 2007 Ok, I reloaded my firmware because I noticed that the coolant temp was reading 40* and it's been 95*+ here all day so I doubt that. Unfortunately, I can't try the settings until my battery charges up some. This blows; I'm on day 8 of the head gasket-MS-II install and I still don't even have it running. I've gone by everything I've read on the forums here and I'm racking my brain hard core. Moby's posts have been a great help, but if I can't figure out this I'm going to go nuts! I can't keep riding the Harley to work. The rain is kind of annoying. Anyhow, if anyone is willing to look at my MSQ I'm uploading it. Someone please help me out here! megasquirt_my_last2.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruez Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 I had the same problem although it wasn't with the Megasquirt.. It was after I built the L6 up and tweeked the factory FI. The problem was the cold start, it was giving too much gas when the engine was warm. The main reason I installed the Haltech. Same symptoms yours has.. It thinks it needs more fuel because its "cold". Have you checked the sensor ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 20, 2007 Author Share Posted July 20, 2007 Sensors are good. All brand new except for the IAC stepper motor. I think this is more a firmware corruption problem so I'm going to see what it does with a semi charged battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 What firmware? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 20, 2007 Author Share Posted July 20, 2007 Well, guess it'll wait till tomorrow. It still seems to be flooding out. The temps are reading correct now, but the RPMs jump horribly on the first few rotations then they settle back down to cranking RPMs. I think that's where it's getting flooded at because it shows some massive amount of RPMs the drops back down. If someone could please look at my .msq I would really appreciate it. It's for the 2.862 firmware if that's needed info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 20, 2007 Author Share Posted July 20, 2007 Sweet cygnusx1! It's 2.862, please tell me you can take a look at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 I am looking at it....list your sensors. O2, air temp, water temp, AFM or MAP...injectors...? Give me as much info as you can. I will try to get it started. Meanwhile check your ignition timing with a light just to confirm you have spark and the LED on the MS-II flashes consistently with spark timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 20, 2007 Author Share Posted July 20, 2007 Sensors - GM IAC, GM Coolant, GM IAT, stock Narrow band O2, MAP sensor in the MS-II. I'll make sure I have spark real quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 And a solid spark signal to the MS-II box. No TPS? Make sure you calibrate the throttle if you do. Also...try this after reviewing it carefully. Adjust the Required Fuel number in the injection setup menu while you try cranking until it starts and idles fine. raise and lower the required fuel to maximize your idle vacuum to the lowest you can get it. Try this CygnusX1.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 20, 2007 Author Share Posted July 20, 2007 Ok, I'm not getting anything, but I think that might be due to the low battery. I have the stock ignition still in place. All I pulled out was the EFI harness. It was trying to start when I would activate the flood clear so I know it's getting spark. The only thing ignition wise I don't have connected is pin 36 because I'm not using the spark control yet. I have pin 24 connected to the green wire on the ignition module to pull RPM (NA ignition module green runs to the negative coil post). D14 looked constant (couldn't discern a flash) while it was cranking and WUE was on as well. Hope this helps some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 20, 2007 Author Share Posted July 20, 2007 Oh sorry, I'm using the 240SX TPS and it is calibrated. My required fuel is set at 12 as that seems to be the recommended starting point. if I do the calculations it comes up with something like 16. It's definitely flooding out though. I'll give it a shot tomorrow, thanks very much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 Do you have a stim board? If you do you could look at the flashing LED and compare it to when the engine is flashing it. You should definitely see it flicker in the LED from the spark or injection signal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 20, 2007 Author Share Posted July 20, 2007 Oh yes I have a stim board and it does flash on the stim. What would change in the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 I believe it should behave the same in the car as it does on the stim. Lower your stim board to 200-300 rpms and thats what the lights should look like in the car during cranking. It should also indicate CRANKING at eh bottom of the Megatune screen. I am assuming there is no cold start injector, and you are using the stock bosch cold air bypass valve for fast idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 20, 2007 Author Share Posted July 20, 2007 I believe it should behave the same in the car as it does on the stim. Lower your stim board to 200-300 rpms and thats what the lights should look like in the car during cranking. It should also indicate CRANKING at eh bottom of the Megatune screen. I am assuming there is no cold start injector, and you are using the stock bosch cold air bypass valve for fast idle. No there is no cold start valve or bosch cold air bypass valve for fast idle. The stepper motor should take care of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 20, 2007 Author Share Posted July 20, 2007 Ok checked it over real quick this morning. I'm getting no spark on #1, but spark on everything else. I'll try swapping the spark plug wire tonight and see if it changes. The injector pulse LED on the box definitely isn't flashing. Almost like it's opening the injectors and keeping them open while it's cranking. This is going to give me a headache already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 Could you post a data log of it attempting to start? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 20, 2007 Author Share Posted July 20, 2007 It'll have to wait until I get home from work. I couldn't take anymore time off. Well probably could have, but I'd rather not use up all of my leave for this one project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 20, 2007 Author Share Posted July 20, 2007 I think I'm going to pull my IAC and check for movement. When cranking it should retract correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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