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1st track day with the Z (home early)


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WHOAAAAA on the dishwasher detergent!!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all of the dishwasher detergents have CHLORINE BLEACH. The Chlorine will instantly rust everything in you engine.

 

You need a surfectant degreaser. Not a caustic nightmare. USE SOAP.

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i know a trick for the RX-7 guys on how they cool there car.... and we all know they run hot... but anyways get little mini efans for the OILCOOLER! DOES WONDERS! real talk.... and when it comes to track days get misters (for like spraying plants) for the rad. u can drop 50 degrees with sparyin the rad. after a few runs...

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WHOAAAAA on the dishwasher detergent!!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all of the dishwasher detergents have CHLORINE BLEACH. The Chlorine will instantly rust everything in you engine.

 

You need a surfectant degreaser. Not a caustic nightmare. USE SOAP.

 

 

♥♥♥♥ both of those and use black magic omg eats oil and any dirt away!

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I think a higher Thermostat like a 195 would help. To test this theory if you had an electric water pump you could turn it off for a minute or two then cut it back on, if the water temp drops then you know a higher thermostat would help. We run a restrictor plate in place of our thermostat, which I plan on changing. When we come down the return lane back to the pits we are turning the water pump off for a minute or two then turning it back on and the water temp decreases.

 

Just my opinon....

 

John

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I've order a 185 and 195 high flow thermostat, the moroso restrictor kit, and a stock size crank pulley. I was looking at my radiator mounting this morning, and the way it sits, the lower core support crossmember blocks about 4 or 5 inches of the core all the way across the bottom. I'm thinking of cutting out the crossmember and lowering it so that the whole radiator core is exposed. The other option would be to try and tilt the radiator forward about 12 inches at the top, which may allow me to move the bottom upward enough to clear the crossmember.

Other than that, I'm going to try and piece together a water squirter setup. I have to get it as good as I can before I head out to the track, then try all the different thermostat/pulley arrangments once I get there.

 

EDIT: I removed the radiator and my oil cooler tonight, and did a trial fit with the radiator on a 45° angle (tilted forward). The griffin just barely squeezes through the hole in the core support. If I set it up like this, I can look through the grill and see the entire core. The ductwork will be very easy to make and effective if I do it this way. It moves the top of the radiator about 24 inches away from the engine, so I might be able to duct most of the air coming out the radiator too, through some sort of vents in the front 1/3 of the hood..(Ford GT style). This will allow me to utilize the entire radiator core, instead of having 1/4 of blocked off by the crossmembers, I can keep my electric fan, and it will only involve minor trimming of the original core support. I'm hoping that enough air will be forced through it to work correctly.....Pictures soon. I have to figure out the bracketry.

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JT1 really is a smart guy. I wanted to check a few facts before I responded. My AFR's on the 383 lt1 car are about 12.8 and Jeff Creach (tuner extrodinare) says he will go as rich as 12.1 if the coolant temps are high.

 

I would start there. Good luck.

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  • 4 months later...

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