nbesheer Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Okay so I got my bushings and and I followed the steps in the haynes manuel for removing the rod and bushings and now I'm stuck with a problem. I can either put the rod on with the back bushings and not mount it or I can mount it and not get the bushings on. How do I compress the bushings while their in so I can mount the rear part of the rod ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Something is wrong. There should be enough thread that you dont need to compress the bushings before you start the nut. Also, it is common knowledge on this site that you should retain the stock rubber bushing on the back side of the TC bucket and a poly on the front side for the S30's. This factoid may apply to the ZX also....anyone? You also didn't mention which kit you have. Poly or aluminum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFancypants Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 This factoid may apply to the ZX also....anyone? IIRC on the ZX the orientation is reversed since the TC rods mount forward of the control arms. - Greg - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted August 24, 2007 Author Share Posted August 24, 2007 Okay, from what I read you want poly on the front and rubber on the back. BUT what I was trying to do was replace old rubber with new rubber. and there was no way I could have Washer - Retainer - Bushing - Bracket - Bushing - Retainer - washer and still have thread on the end. What I ended up doing was putting the old worn bushings back on and with a couple of C clamps I compressed them back in enough to get the retainer and nut (no washer) on which I then tightened enough to get the back 2 mounting bolts in with the help of a screw driver though one of the bolt holes for leverage then after those 2 bolts got in I un did the nut again and put the washer back on. so basically I wasted like 2 hours taking the rod apart and putting it back together with the old bushings. I don't know how I am going to get the new ones on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Is this on a ZX or a Z. They are completely different cars in this area. There are PLENTY of threads to get the nut on with no need for compression of the bushing stack. For an S-30Z you can even add several washers to increase caster as long as you don't bind the inner LCA pivot or the point the TC-ROD attaches to the LCA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted August 25, 2007 Author Share Posted August 25, 2007 Sorry it's for a ZX. I looked for threads on it but didn't see any but I'll search again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted August 25, 2007 Share Posted August 25, 2007 Start thinking about the fact that maybe you have the wrong part. You might have the kit for an S30. I think bjhines means threads on the T/C rod, not on hybridz...although both apply. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125072 This is an S30 and the nut points to the rear of the car. Opposite your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted August 25, 2007 Author Share Posted August 25, 2007 haha well I re looked and didn't see anything so I think he was talking about actual threads. Anyways the MSA bushings I got have a number on them and it's the same number that is on the original bushings... the shape is a bit different but pretty much the same size. Also with the original bushings I didn't have any threads to work with either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tickwon Posted August 25, 2007 Share Posted August 25, 2007 I think I had this problem, before...I went with one rubber and poly bushing. Now though, I have the, I think it's called performance T/C rod bushings...it's that ball socket type bushing. Anyway, when I tried two bushing, I had someone pull on the hub assembly forward while I got a few thread on the nut, set the car back down on the alignment rack and torque down to specs, or you can set it on ramps. I had access to an alignment rack at the time. It is a dangerous move doing it this way, but it was a chance that I was taking. Just telling you how I dealt with the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gretchen/jason Posted August 26, 2007 Share Posted August 26, 2007 I had the same problem with my 78 280 z i sent the bushings back for another pair and the same problem ocured . What i ended up having to do is cut some of the thickness of the bushings with a band saw . Ya shouldnt have to do that but i had no choice i believe i took of 1/8 of a inch from each bushing . Then they fit just fine . Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trippintl0 Posted August 26, 2007 Share Posted August 26, 2007 make sure the two bolts to the control arm are NOT connected. Then get the nut started on the tension rod. Then, put a jack under the control arm to compress it up slightly until you can slide the rod under there. I had the same issue, it was because the rod was angled down since I bolted up the control arm first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COmputoman Posted August 27, 2007 Share Posted August 27, 2007 I had this same problem with my s130. I purchased polys. I have yet to install them because im scared of snapping my rods. But yes I did have the issue where i could not mount the rod without someone helping me pull the tire so there was enough room to install the rear bolts when I was attempting to install them. Speaking of which, I need some OEM bushes so I can do the combo replacement. Does anyone know the best place to find the rubber s130 TC rod bushings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted August 27, 2007 Author Share Posted August 27, 2007 Hey MSA sells them their like 4 bucks a piece plus shipping. I bought 4 because I plan on selling the 2 left over poly and rubber bushings for like a "set" to help get a bit of money back. Probably not much if anythough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e_racer1999 Posted August 28, 2007 Share Posted August 28, 2007 make sure the two bolts to the control arm are NOT connected. Then get the nut started on the tension rod. Then, put a jack under the control arm to compress it up slightly until you can slide the rod under there. I had the same issue, it was because the rod was angled down since I bolted up the control arm first. i was gonna say that, but i didn't know if that applied to S130s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Chiropractor Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 I encountered the same thing with my S30 that I changed over to the MSA poly bushings a number of years ago. With the control arm side bolted on enough for leverage, I put the setup together with both poly bushings, inner sleeves and washers without putting it through the mounting point on the body of the car. Then I tightened the thing down a bunch to compress the bushings. The bushings are rather slow to rebound, so I was able to take it back apart and make the final assembly with no problem due to the fact that the bushings were still a little compressed, yet slid easily over the inner sleeves. It had enough room to get the threads started easily. BTW, I used poly bushings on both sides. Before reading this thread I had never heard of using rubber on one side and poly on the other... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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