energy suspensions poly bushings dont fit!!!

[Georgia Flash]

I should have searched before I asked my last question. Anyway I found this old post and I am still confused.

 

So do you or do you not cut the shells? Some of the guys on this post said that you do some say no. The instructions say NO. However, there is no way in gods name that they will fit into the old sleeves no matter how much freezing or pounding that you do. They are the same diameter as the shells maybe even a little bigger.

 

It looks like to me the only way they will fit is if you get rid of the old shells but then I wonder if they would hold up without the metal shells around them?

[Georgia Flash]

Well I guess that no ones completely sure about this one so after I get out of the shower I'm off to buy a better hack saw (broke my cheapo one some time ago).

 

I will also call hyperflex if I can find a number for them and speak to someone there.

 

If anyone has got these suckers to fit by using the freezing method or anything else besides cutting or grinding them to pieces, chime in and maybe you will save me a trip to the store.

 

I will check back shortly. By the way, I did not have any problems using the rear kit. The mustach bushings just slid right in even using the old shells. I did not takle the bushings on the control arm pins though.

[auxilary]

[Georgia Flash]

Thanx Aux, I'm off to the store to get that saw! Time to do some cutting!

[auxilary]

I sawed through the sleeve on both sides, and then used a 27mm socket to press them out. after that, new bushings can be put in by hand, perfect fit.

[auxilary]

both bushings installed. yay

 

don't forget to use the grease.

[Georgia Flash]

Yeppers looks good, I bought some white marine type grease to use for the bushings. Will this be ok?

[auxilary]

you should get the ES bushing grease (should come with them in a little packet) or a molygraph type grease.

[Georgia Flash]

Yeah I got the two little containers of that sticky stuff (grease) with the kit but they did not send a lot of it.

 

I also gave up on cutting mine out. After sawing through the shell and into the arm itself on one of the sides the sucker still wouldn't budge. I made two cuts.

 

I took it to an engine shop and he said that he could do both the arms for less than $9.00 total. That will save me one helluva headache! I will pick them up tomorrow on my way to work.

[Georgia Flash]

Update!

 

I got my control arms back yesterday and it only cost me $8.00 total to have them both pressed out. That is a lot less that the hack saw that I purchased earlier in the day to try and cut them out. I would suggest this route to anyone who ask me how to get the suckers out.

 

It will save you both time and money.

[fl327]

the rears are pretty easy to do in the car, which is one more thing i love about my car, ive dropped the trans and the diff twice-and havent had to drop the exhaust

[Guest hegan1956]

I'm in the process of putting bushing into my control arms and have had many of the same Qs that many have allready stated. I got my bushings from "Victoria Britsh" and they didn't come with any instructions or grease. I have no idea who makes these bushings either, but the sound like the same ones that everyone here has talked about. One Q that isn't answered is why these bushings are either to large to fit or seem to loose to work proprerly? the demensions are Inside Dia. of the shell is 1.20", the ID of the arm bushing housing is 1.40", and the OD of the bushing is 1.38". Now I'm no rocket scientist but I'm wondering if .020" clearance is to much. Are they really hand fitted? It would seem that if they were tight the CA assembly would pivot on the arm bolt, but this way they seem to rotate themselves inside the shell. I believe that means double the friction at the arm mounting pivot. I may be totally wrong. I have hessitated cutting the bushing shells because of this conflict. This is my first swap of bushings on a Datsun, but I know american vehicles don't have this much slack. I have the bushings in the freezer and as soon as I have time I'm going to try and heat my CAs and see if they will friction fit. Since its been almost 2 yrs since this was started how about you guys that have allready done this let me know how it has worked so far. I am really interested in knowing.

[COZY Z COLE]

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/frontcontrolarm/index.html

 

LARRY

[strotter]

Something new to worry about with the poly bushings - recently I've been concerned about my front suspension's tendency to tramline excessively (track road irregularities). Looking at all the slop in the rack & pinion with the poly bushings (a good 3/16" in either direction), I decided to do something about it: loosened the "rotation limiter" (or whatever it's called, the little clamp-on arm that straps to the steering rack and rests against the crossmember), moved it so that it jammed upside-down against the rack mount, limiting the rack's movement. Took it for a drive, and the tramlining is *gone*. My interpretation: the poly bushings for the steering rack are too *narrow*, allowing far too much lateral movement. Another Quality Control problem? I'll be fabricating some aluminum spacers to jam the rack in more tightly.

[wheelman]

I had the same issue with the Energy Suspension poly rack bushings in my car. I used some strips of neoprene between the bushings and the mount to tighten things up. I haven't driven the car like this yet but it eliminated all rack movement with the car sitting in the garage. I thought about using some sheetmetal wrapped around the rack mounts but decided on the neoprene because I had a sheet laying around and it's much easier to work with than the sheetmetal. Anyway I'll watch it over time to see how the neoprene holds up.

 

All the other bushings in the Energy Suspension master kit fit very well and I had enough grease for all of them. In fact I had a heck of a time getting the rear outer control arm bushings in.

 

Wheelman

[Guest hegan1956]

I haven't had the problem of rack bushings. What got me started on my rebuild was when the driver side ball joint and then the strut mount insulator failed and let me sand the control arms on the highway. So I decided to replace both ball joints that lead to control arm bushing, etc. I had already replaced the rack bushings when I put new "LIFETIME" warranty ball joints on it 9 months before. I will not say the name of the nationally known parts outlet, but their initials are "CAR QUEST". So I decided to replace all overseas junk on the car. I'm glad I decided to do this. Other joints was about to split the bottom housing. I did grease both joints so it wasn't user error. Now this small Q about the front control bushings. I almost wish for an american car when I start looking for info and parts. Next the rear suspension gets tackled.

[Guest hegan1956]

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/frontcontrolarm/index.html

 

LARRY

 

Thanks on the how to, but I have a suggestion. Take the 6 strut bushing nuts loose, 4 bolts off the motor mounts and the 4 from the crossmember, loosen the steering shaft and by using a floor jack, Voyla! the whole shooting match will come out. Then after pulling the struts at the steering knuckle, flip her over and have a much easier time in rebuilding the front end. I've done repairs the old fashion way on the back and the way Datsun says do it. Datsun's way is much easier for an overweight old fart like me.

[CruxGNZ]

Looking at all the slop in the rack & pinion with the poly bushings (a good 3/16" in either direction), I decided to do something about it: loosened the "rotation limiter" (or whatever it's called, the little clamp-on arm that straps to the steering rack and rests against the crossmember), moved it so that it jammed upside-down against the rack mount, limiting the rack's movement.

Scott, I recently noticed the same thing. I didn't even know the rack was moving around untill I heard a slight squeeking when I was pushing my Z and turning it when the hood was off. I am going to look into it aswell, but I would like to see what you did exactly. I just can't picture it.

 

!M!

[yoogener]

I just finished the Energy Suspension poly set 2 days ago with my brother. i just got the difficult parts of the front/rear control arms pressed out for cheap. im sure everyone knows but since im still learning about cars i would like to praise myself of finishing these damn poly bushings. it was quite a be hotch for the rear control arm. although poly's are hard to flex they are worth the trouble. to those who have finished and are finishing, live long!

[strotter]

Matt, I've *tried* to place a picture here, it may or may not work - note that this is *strictly* an experimental procedure. I just loosened the "keeper", spun it 180°, and butted it up against the horn coming out of the crossmember. I preloaded it pretty good while I was doing it by cranking the steering shaft over whilst snugging the bolt. I'll be coming up with a more permanent solution shortly - probably an aluminum spacer framing the bushing.