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Painless wiring harness and grounds as I clean up the wiring on my RB Z


streeteg

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Motor: RB25DET S2

Chassis: 74 260z

Painless wiriing harness

 

I have been having some issues with my electrical system when it comes to being too many wires being spliced and resplice and grounded to the same location. So this week I will be making a grounding block for my Z for both the interior and engine bay.

 

As for the engine bay--

 

Do the tranny and Battery ground need to be shared?

How many grounds are there within the engine bay?

Is there a way to remove the wires from the box that are no longer in use?

 

What have you guys been doing for wiring?

 

Discuss?

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I first started by unwrapping the whole harness.

 

Using a connector terminal kit (you can also use sowing needles) I removed every unused terminals from their connectors...

 

Where they were spliced wires that were going nowhere in MY car, I cut the wire directly at the splice...

 

I also decided early on that I wanted a functional OBD2 plug in my car so, I wired accordingly...

 

All I have left to do is to install the engine, feed the harness trough the firewall and locate the ECCM, when this is done, I'll cut the harness to length and CRIMP it back together...

 

After that, I'll pull the harness out of the car one more time, going to wrap it with something yet to be determined and put it back in for the last time for a complete stock look. No wires hanging about randomly...

 

I also routed the engine harness between the intake and head, which shortened the harness a good deal and makes it practically invisible...

 

It is always best if everything shares a common ground point, block, tranny., starter, altern. and head straight on the BATT. - but, that makes that much more wiring to route and must use an pretty expensive, big wire gauge... There are some cheap "common groud kits" for sale on E-bay that could do the job

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I first started by unwrapping the whole harness.

I also decided early on that I wanted a functional OBD2 plug in my car so, I wired accordingly...

 

and.

 

I also routed the engine harness between the intake and head, which shortened the harness a good deal and makes it practically invisible...

 

 

Do oyu have some pictures of the OBD2 plug seutp and the harness inbetween the intake/head? I'm guessing you have the RB25, not the 26? I say that because a majority of my harness is already inbetween the intake and cylinder head.

-Bob

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.The 2 first ones are where my harness is routed now, the last one is where the harness was originally routed...

 

I don't have a pic of my OBD2 plug as I didn't have the chassis side of the harness.

 

I just tagged and regrouped the wires. Now I have to take the plug from an extra Silvia harness that I have lying around and crimp new terminals so I can just slide them in the connector for a factory look.

 

By the way, I made a mistake, I meant to say DIAGNOSTIC PLUG and not OBD2 plug, as it's a Nissan 14 +16 plug not an OBD...

 

One last thing, if you do route your harness like that, make sure you wrap it in heat and abrasion resistant looming...

Harness under intake 1_thumb.JPG

Harness under intake 2_thumb.JPG

3617_thumb.attach

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Thanks for the pictures - that's what I thought.

Its not an issue with the RB26 as they are all routed right near the head on top of the intake manifold/ITB's/etc..

Did yours already have an OBDII port? My motor is from a 2000 model - a Stagea 260RS with the R33 motor - so I'm not sure if it had the OBDII or not? I have what appears to be an OBDII plug - I'll have to check when I get back to Corpus.

Ah - on edit I see that you are saying its a diagnostic port. Again, I'll compare it to mine.

-Bob

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No, the Nissan 14 + 16 plug doesn't have the same shape as an OBD plug...

 

My engine is an RB25 from a 96 model, I think that in Japan they went to OBD2 later than in America, cause here, in America we had OBD2 since 96...

 

If your engine is from a 2000, I'm pretty sure it's OBD2, but do your research anyways...

 

This is what the plug should look like, but I think that my camera takes worst pics than a phone cam so, sorry for the fuzzy pic.

PIC00018_thumb.JPG

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just for the record, if you hold the camera further away, and hold the shutter release button halfway until the motor stops moving, and makes a beep, or a small square inside the viewfinder flashes... it will come out clear and crisp, rather than close and blurry.

 

or if your camera has a macro feature (look for the little flower symbol), then use that for close ups.

 

I know it's easy to tell what the connector looks like, but i've seen this one too many times, and i just had to say something.

 

nothing personal, alex

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