stony Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 Looking at replacing the in and out water lines from the motor to the radiator with AN fitting type setup. Anyone ever done this and what size would be sufficient to flow the proper amount of water? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 I've done an lt1 and an ls 1 car and have used -20 fittings on both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 found these, they're built for the purpose, but probably little small. http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_prod_id=196,52,363_4418&action=product as well as this brand that is not built for cars but they have welded inline mesh filters. http://ejayfiltration.com/msan-fitting.html Not sure if you'd want to put that for a radiator return though, sometimes it's easy to tell what's wrong with the car if you look in the radiator and check out what's floatin around in there. I'd say gasket bits and such, but I assume you're running metal headgasket, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 I did it to mine. I just had the AN male fittings welded onto the oem pieces... click em Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8wannabe2 Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 I scored this set up off EBay a few years back. Looks like they cut up the original fittings and tigged the threaded pieces to them. Sorry not sure of the size, but the pic may help with that (a bigger version of this pic is in my Album, along with a few more pics) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted September 11, 2007 Author Share Posted September 11, 2007 So joel yours were -20???? I did it to mine. I just had the AN male fittings welded onto the oem pieces...click em Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 So joel yours were -20???? Mine are -16. No problems with water temps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted September 12, 2007 Author Share Posted September 12, 2007 Joel have you really railed on it yet? I was looking at the -16 fittings today and they look quite small inside dia compared to the stock outlets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted September 12, 2007 Share Posted September 12, 2007 Joel have you really railed on it yet? I was looking at the -16 fittings today and they look quite small inside dia compared to the stock outlets I tried to find those first ones i posted in -20, but to no avail especially since they're purpose built. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted September 12, 2007 Share Posted September 12, 2007 Joel have you really railed on it yet? Sorry, don't understand what that means..... If you mean have I put my foot to the floor in it yet, then yes, I've done a few WOT spirited runs in it with out over heating. As far as being a small inner dia., yes, I guess it looks smaller than stock. I have had zero issues with water temps, and I'm talking massive under hood temps with the twin long tube stainless headers. I have a new stock oem R33 GT-R water pump and thermostat with a dual pass alum radiator, and a 16" puller fan controlled with a 185 deg on thermo switch. I've never gone above 208 deg, and thats in 98 deg weather, at idle. ( 50/50 Antifreeze/water) I think -16 is sufficient for my application. It should work for you too, huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted September 12, 2007 Share Posted September 12, 2007 If it's worth anything to you guys, unless you're always running at red-line or close to it, or in an endurance race, you're probably better off getting the OEM pump rather than the N1, as the N1 is made to pump slower because the engine is always at higher RPM. This could help some water temps in stop and go traffic, but I don't think you'd see much of that, stony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted September 12, 2007 Author Share Posted September 12, 2007 Well actually its the outlet that was allot bigger from the motor and since I have 3 -8 pulling water out of the head in addition to the -16 out of the block I now feel this should be good. I was just a little concerned with modifying something to be smaller then stock. Thanks for the inputs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted September 12, 2007 Share Posted September 12, 2007 do you have a pic of the head lines? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted September 13, 2007 Author Share Posted September 13, 2007 you mean this???? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121422 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted September 13, 2007 Share Posted September 13, 2007 NICE! one question. is it possible to retain the stock throttle linkage for the ITB's, or is this mainly for plenum/greddy style large single TB setups, as it looks like the hoses might get in the way of the linkages, no? But this is something i'd like to try, even if I don't need it. I like fabbing little things like this up =) I'd probably end up using two more of the same AC tanks that i've used for the gasoline surge tank. It'd be cool to have matching cans on either side of the motor. One for coolant, and one for oil-catch, and then another at the back for fuel surge =D these things come in handy when not being used for AC! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted September 13, 2007 Author Share Posted September 13, 2007 Here look thru this http://www.zeroyon.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7516&hl=coolant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted September 13, 2007 Share Posted September 13, 2007 i did a quick glance, but i didn't see whether or not the linkages were taken off, and I can't really tell since I don't have my engine head yet. (shipping container issues) Hmmm... im guessing since those pieces have injector bungs, and no throttle plates, those go against the head. and since the gasket kit from Nissan has two or 3 sets of ITB gaskets, those probably go in between the injector runner section and the throttles bolt on the front those. am I right on this? after-market single TB's would only need the injector runner section. I thought the after-markets were a single piece and the greddy intake manifolds had their own runners and injector bungs, I guess there are two different styles? I could have sworn I saw one with runners and mounts for a fuel rail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted September 13, 2007 Author Share Posted September 13, 2007 The ITB should be able to be maintained. All you do is remove the balance tube, plug the air holes and drill out and tap the water holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 0hhhhhh that's a no-no I'm going to be using open stacks with ITB's. I COULD make an equalizing chamber to acquire more vacuum assist with the air balancing tube, and run lines from the air holes with small o-ring + teflon tape AN fittings. I think that's what i'll do once I get it running. I can always pull the throttles off and adapt this mod to the head once I have the engine running and everything is all good. Great stuff, stony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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