tommyboy Posted September 22, 2007 Author Share Posted September 22, 2007 Glad you found what was causing the no start condition. I would also be worried about the dropping fuel pressure. It should hold pressure for atleast a half a hour if not longer after you turn off the car if your injectors and fuel pressure regulator is in good condition. I was concerned about that too, so I called a mechanic shop in Tucson, AZ that specializes in Z cars. They said that the fuel pressure should stay around 2 or 3 psi when the car's off. So I looked closer at the pressure gauge and it does register that. It was just a little hard to see 'cause it's a 100 psi gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 I was concerned about that too, so I called a mechanic shop in Tucson, AZ that specializes in Z cars. They said that the fuel pressure should stay around 2 or 3 psi when the car's off. So I looked closer at the pressure gauge and it does register that. It was just a little hard to see 'cause it's a 100 psi gauge. Is this carbed? If so then 2-3 psi is good. But if its efi it should be 25 minium up to 35psi after the car is shut off and then only loose 1 psi per minute or something like that. Not sure exactly of the leak specs but your manual should have it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommyboy Posted September 23, 2007 Author Share Posted September 23, 2007 Is this carbed? If so then 2-3 psi is good. But if its efi it should be 25 minium up to 35psi after the car is shut off and then only loose 1 psi per minute or something like that. Not sure exactly of the leak specs but your manual should have it. It's an EFI system, and after he got the car running, my mechanic said that it was doing exactly what you were talkin about...losing about 1 PSI a minute or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 I have cut into fuel hoses on cars stored for years and they still had fuel pressure in them to spray my face... If it's bleeding off that fast, there is another problem...FPR or Check Valve in the pump are the usual culprits. "Stuck Open Injector" is usually the exact opposite of what happens to them, though occasionally the odd Cold-Start Injector will fail...but since it's removed... Also remember that if the fuel pump is shutting off before the engine's ignition/injection system is shut off, it can bleed down fuel pressure very quickly indeed. It happens...on early cars with the AFM Mounted Fuel Pump Contacts and a low idle situation, it can happen quite often! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Also remember that if the fuel pump is shutting off before the engine's ignition/injection system is shut off, it can bleed down fuel pressure very quickly indeed. It happens...on early cars with the AFM Mounted Fuel Pump Contacts and a low idle situation, it can happen quite often! Reminds me of what my car was doing a few months ago. I had lowered the idle to about 600 rpm in a quest for better fuel mileage, and with the afm controling the fuel pump, i could hear the EFI relay clicking on and off. Sometimes the car would die at stop lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommyboy Posted September 27, 2007 Author Share Posted September 27, 2007 Okay guys, so I go the car running, ignition timing set, and new Taylor wires put in. I gotta question about it being 180 out though. Right now the #1 cylinder is where the #6 usually is. If I wanted to fix it to where it's supposed to be, can I rotate the drive spindle 180 degrees? Or would that be bad. Thankx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e_racer1999 Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 sounds like all your mechanic did was reverse the plug wires. you can swap them back to where they were if you pop the dizzy cap, mark EXACTLY where the rotor is pointing, then pull the dizz. drop the oil pump (it's messy), rotate the gear 180*, and put it back in using one bolt. put the dizzy back on (180 out) and see how much you need to correct it. once you get it so that it lines up with the mark you made, bolt everything back together and you're good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommyboy Posted September 28, 2007 Author Share Posted September 28, 2007 sounds like all your mechanic did was reverse the plug wires. you can swap them back to where they were if you pop the dizzy cap, mark EXACTLY where the rotor is pointing, then pull the dizz. drop the oil pump (it's messy), rotate the gear 180*, and put it back in using one bolt. put the dizzy back on (180 out) and see how much you need to correct it. once you get it so that it lines up with the mark you made, bolt everything back together and you're good to go. Sweet. I thought that was all I had to do, but I just wanted to make sure. Thankx for the help. I'll keep everyone aprised of the situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PapaSmurf Posted September 29, 2007 Share Posted September 29, 2007 lol 180 out. I've done that maybe 3 times this month doing my engine swap. It's easier to do than you'd think... I wish the damned thing would just fix itself sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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