383 tranny options

[happynukes]

i am predicting that the 383 i am setting up for my 76 is gonna be a high amount of torque and the hp is gonna be in the 5-550 hp area so i need a manual transmission that will handle that kind of power i researched the richmonds but i don't have 3k+ for a six speed any other suggestions would be great thanks and the rear end is out of a corvette still setting up the mounts pics to come soon

 

thanks

[dr_hunt]

TKO transmissions is about all your going to find unless you want to go lenco.

[dsommer]

Why not the T-56 6speed? Lots of folks are running them. Personally I'm going to run a WC T-5 behind my stroker, I figure if I don't BEAT on it too hard it should last a good while.

 

Check out racingjunk.com for leads on trannys.

 

Good luck and post up some pics and an intro.

[Cable]

i am predicting that the 383 i am setting up for my 76 is gonna be a high amount of torque and the hp is gonna be in the 5-550 hp area

 

1st question.....how are going to be making 500-550 (streetable) hp with your 383, combo details would be great.

 

I ask because I have built several 383's and 406's sbc for customers/friends and rarely they breach the streetable 500hp mark, even after AFR heads and a decent size roller cam. Now slap on a blower/turbo and/or nitrous and 600+hp is like falling off a log.

 

2nd question.....what are you going to be doing with the car? Drag racing, autocross, etc?

 

If you are going drag racing, forget about the manual tranny. You'll never hook and be able to control your launch, and if your really making even 500hp with a sbc, you won't have alot of low end torque so you have to dump the clutch to get it moving anyway.

 

If you are going autocrossing, the manual is the way to go, but again if you are really making 500hp with a sbc, you'll be lacking the low end to get you out of the turns.

 

If have set your mind to a six speed, look at a used T-56 from a Camaro/Firebird and have stainless or bronze syncros installed during a decent rebuild. Or hunt down a T-56 from a Z06 Vette or Viper. They already have the good parts in them and I doubt you'll break it.

 

Regardless you are looking at $3k+ for the tranny, plus another $1k+ for your clutch, flywheel, and bellhousing.

 

However, if you really built a 500hp sbc, this shouldn't be a huge surprise that you'll need to spend an equal amount of coin on a manual tranny in order to stand up to your motor.

 

Trust me when I say that I know how torque kills parts.....

 

 

TKO transmissions is about all your going to find unless you want to go lenco.

 

Agreed. But he doesn't want to spend more than 3k and Lencos go for more than that last time I checked.

[HICKL]

I had G-force build my T5 and if has held up so far. Of course you have to have a T5 to start with and then $2000 plus for the build so you are back up to 3K again real quick. I like mine though, nice and light weight compared to the T56.

[dsommer]

I had G-force build my T5 and if has held up so far. Of course you have to have a T5 to start with and then $2000 plus for the build so you are back up to 3K again real quick. I like mine though, nice and light weight compared to the T56.

 

Did you have G-force build yours or did you have it done locally??? What parts/package did you install?

[happynukes]

hey bbz i am "predicting" 500hp because of the stroker kit and 210ci aluminum heads and a 150 shot of nitrous this car is gonna be specicially built for auto cross and tearin up I-35 in the middle of the night. i think i'm gonna go with an auto trans due to cost and reliability my father in law made a good point "you'll never miss a shift" this is gonna be a project for flex to move up against the cocky old farts in the z06's and porches that are all over the place in austin. plus i would love to beat the crap out of these punks that think they're cars are awesome because they own a v-tec civic with a huge wing and a group of stickers and decals on the side of their POS and the neon lights that look rediculous(to much fast and the fursious very large lack of respect even at the track). Z owners around here are a good bunch of guys and seem to know the ropes. I own a 81 zx and now i've got the 76 in the middle of resto. as for straight line on the strip i have a 83 bird set up for that so my purpose for this car is deffinately the street. i'll be running dual quad 500cfms 383 stroker (still working on the cam) all forged internals, nitrous, corvette rear end since the r200 can't handle torque on this level dependably. 17x8 rear rims and msatype III kit. funding is coming along a little slower then originally anticipated due to house and wife. i'm leaving the cam and valve choice to my father inlaw due to his experience level.

 

this car should be a nasty little street beast when i'm done with it in a couple of years.

 

by the way, where did you get your cowl hood was that MSA?

 

take it easy and let me know what you think

[happynukes]

thanks again guys i will look into all these tranny's before i make my final decsion i might still want the manual just because of the feeling

 

take it easy guys

[Cable]

i'll be running dual quad 500cfms 383 stroker......

 

.......corvette rear end since the r200 can't handle torque on this level dependably.

 

by the way, where did you get your cowl hood was that MSA?

 

take it easy and let me know what you think

 

Forget the dual quads, its been proven that a larger single 4 barrel Holley type carb will out perform dual quads. Originally the only reason folks ran more than one carb is because no one made anything larger than 500-550 cfm carbs. So if you wanted more, you had to run more than one carb. Nowadays we get as big as we want with a single carb. Even then a 1000 cfm is too much for any street SBC and most BBC for that matter. A single 750-800 is plenty.

 

The reason we have dual carb manifolds is for that old school look, otherwise you are spending more money than needed for less power.

 

I would seriously reconsider the R200. I have tons of passes on my stock, original, 1975 R200 with both my 383 SBC and now my warmed over 454 BBC. Just now I am starting to wear out the output bearing on the drivers side. They are a damn near bulletproof diff, the short nose R200 from Q45's are even better (my next step) and come with vLSD and HUGE CV's that are unbreakable to this point.

 

If that still isn't enough, the R230 from the Z32's TT models is much stronger than a Vette rear. If I break my Q45 R200, I already have a R230 in my garage.

 

My hood is a 'glass cowl molded onto my stock 280z hood. Custom deal, sorry.

 

If you need help with your combo, including cam selection, I am more than happy to help. I've build more than a few SBC and BBC, I know a few things .

[Pop N Wood]

You can get a brand new TKO for under $2K. It will bolt up just like a Muncie.

 

They also make aftermarket T56's that will fit where a Muncie use to.

http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/6_speed.html

[HICKL]

Did you have G-force build yours or did you have it done locally??? What parts/package did you install?

 

I had G-force build it. I can't remember the specifics, there's one guy there that specializes in the GM tranny's so I just talked to him and told him what I wanted it to be able to handle. I know it was new gears and mainshaft and some re-inforcement plate.

[dustin280zx]

hey bbz i am "predicting" 500hp because of the stroker kit and 210ci aluminum heads and a 150 shot of nitrous this car is gonna be specicially built for auto cross and tearin up I-35 in the middle of the night.... i'll be running dual quad 500cfms 383 stroker (still working on the cam) all forged internals, nitrous, corvette rear end since the r200 can't handle torque on this level dependably. 17x8 rear rims and msatype III kit. funding is coming along a little slower then originally anticipated due to house and wife. i'm leaving the cam and valve choice to my father inlaw due to his experience level.

 

take it easy and let me know what you think

 

What kind of heads and flow? with you wanting to run it on the street you should get a hydraulic roller with about a 110 lobe sep. since you want to run nitrous. you'll have to figure out the rest on you heads, stahl, weight ect. the r-200 should be fine for you. I'm running the r-200 and i'm making more power than you. and like bbz said there is no need for you to run dual carbs. dual carbs are for high flowing drag racing engines that make their power up high. you also have double the trouble with them. a holley 750 dp would be fine for you. if you want to step it up you can get a 750hp.

[happynukes]

BBZ which rear end has the best capabilities and toughness also where do you find the half shafts you were talking about and

[happynukes]

the dual quads like you said are for the looks mainly i just like the appeal i have a 1050 cfm for my bird and if i wanna get crazy I can always make the swapo also i have that 76 and its seems to be all original what kinda of diff is in there and will i need to modify it to make it tougher or just doa swap. did you reinforge you body underneath by the way? thanks talk to you again soon

 

Greg H.

[Cable]

BBZ which rear end has the best capabilities and toughness also where do you find the half shafts you were talking about and the dual quads like you said are for the looks mainly i just like the appeal i have a 1050 cfm for my bird and if i wanna get crazy I can always make the swapo also i have that 76 and its seems to be all original what kinda of diff is in there and will i need to modify it to make it tougher or just doa swap. did you reinforge you body underneath by the way? thanks talk to you again soon

 

Greg H.

 

The R230 is the best Nissan rear end swap for our IRS Z cars. They are found under '90-'96 300zx twin-turbo cars. They all have 3.69:1 gears and are vLSD posi diffs.

 

The easier and arguably just a strong swap is the short nose R200 found under '90's Q45's. It uses the same CV's as the R230 and is also a vLSD. It also installs pretty easy buy just re-drilling the stock mustache bar. There is plenty of topics on this in the 'Drivetrain' forum. Axles, adapters and such are easily bought from Ross from http://www.modernmotorsports.com . Another source for parts is http://www.arizonazcar.com

 

If your stock Z is a manual car you already have a R200 under it, although it is the long nose version. It also the version that is still under my Z car and until recently held up without a hitch. Even so, I doubt the rear would be any different if the stock engine was still in the car since it is a bearing gone bad, not the gears, etc.

 

My Z is all stock in the body, although the body does flex under all the torque under WOT. I am hoping I'll have a 10 point cage in it by early 2008. If that doesn't stiff up the body, nothing will.

[happynukes]

your not going to run any rails underneath for chasis support? so would you say for project cost just start off with my current r200 and see what happens? thanks again man i had my doubts about this site by watchin some of the senior members burn the rookies on stupid questions but you have by far been a great help I can't wait to get under it and start pulling everything out and start the cleaning now that fall is here and things are cooling down for us.

[HICKL]

Hey Nukes, if your frame rails are good, the car will handle quite a bit of power. There is a weak link fix for the R200 that makes it pretty tuff, there is much info on it here but it pertains to welding the spider gear pin in place. Search for it or pm me and I can give you more info. I just got thru replacing mine.

 

I'm with you on the tunnel ram, they sure look cool, see my avatar.

 

I'm just north of Houston, if you want to check anything out first hand just make the drive and you can look over mine.

 

Jeff

[Pyro]

I broke more outer axles than R200 diffs or halfshafts with my 240. But I was using MT drag slicks and 5000 rpm clutch drops.

 

Once the car started running 10's at over 134 mph and 1.5's 60 ft is when the stock axles, halfshafts, and diffs started to break with frequency. I didn't have too many problems with the rear end running mid 11's at 120 (no N20) but 10's crossed the line (with N20).

 

425 to 450hp, 11:1 cr. 362 sbc, 200cc dart iron eagles, plus a 175-200 hp shot N20.

 

Car uses a GMT5 with 3.90 R200.

 

I quit racing it because I got tried of replacing stock parts and decided I wanted to live a little longer. So, I going for a 4 link with a straight axle before I race it like that again. Or just detune it and enjoy it on the street.

[Pop N Wood]

The R230 is the best Nissan rear end swap for our IRS Z cars.

 

It is the biggest, heaviest, most expensive and takes the most work to install, but "best" is subjective.

 

Also I am not sure what the advantage of a short nose R200 would be over the standard R200.

[Cable]

It is the biggest, heaviest, most expensive and takes the most work to install, but "best" is subjective.

 

Also I am not sure what the advantage of a short nose R200 would be over the standard R200.

 

True, I should of said strongest.

 

As far as the differences in strength between the short and long nosed R200's.......

 

The teeth count on the short nosed R200's ring and pinion is higher so the load is spread out more evenly, like of like axles spline counts, more is usually better.

 

Also the short nose R200 has a thicker ring gear. It also appears that the carrier itself is beefer as is the case or pumpkin to resist flexing which could cause some internal parts to fail.

 

Heck, just pick up a long nose R200, then a short nose R200. The weight difference is pretty clear. I plan on weighing both shortly while I am doing the swap. I also own a R230, I will weigh that one too.