Spraguepsycho1 Posted November 3, 2007 Author Share Posted November 3, 2007 Yes I can remove stuff to make it lighter. One of the previous owners removed the air conditioning condensor, but left the rest of the system in place, so that will all come out (should be at least 30-40lbs there) if I stick with the l28, if I swapped to the Ford Small block from what I've heard the 289/302 is about 40lbs lighter than the stock 6, and a C4 would most likely be quite a bit lighter than the stock 5 speed trans. Just out of curiosity, does anybody know how much the panel that holds the stock speakers behind the seats weighs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZXR_KiD Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 MAYBE 3-5lbs... its a thin peice... its only I think 6 bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spraguepsycho1 Posted November 4, 2007 Author Share Posted November 4, 2007 yeah not worth the hassle of pulling it out for that little bit of weight, especially since this is my daily driver for now anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(goldfish) Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 OK, good pads should be enough on the stock brakes as long as they are put in good condition. If new stock parts count under safety, Stock euro springs are better. To get the L2X in to the 12s NA you need good headwork, and supporting mods (intake,fuel). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stprasinz Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 OK, good pads should be enough on the stock brakes as long as they are put in good condition. If new stock parts count under safety, Stock euro springs are better. To get the L2X in to the 12s NA you need good headwork, and supporting mods (intake,fuel). I think "headwork, and supporting mods" is an understatement... You need high compression pistons balancing is a good idea. And thats a start... I don't think you'll get into the 12's spending "ALL" the money you have left over from purchasing the car, unless you strip it to a bare shell. and I mean everything uneeded would have to be gone. And even then it would probably not be much into the 12's... (probably like 12.8-9..... if you are good.. not to knock anything but..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 I'd echo some other thoughs here and say get a turbo+manifold via ebay, and some injectors IF you can get them. If not then mod the FPR a bit and raise the fuel pressure to 60+ psi to get the fuel you need. The stock pump won't like that very much but if you get a secondary pump and run it in SERIES OR PARALLEL you'll get double the PSI at the same pump load. Even with turbo injectors that's $400 tops, and 10psi should be safe enough if the motor is in good shape and you keep it rich, and 10psi on the stock NA compression should move quite nicely. Should put you into the 13s even in the hands of a bad driver. As far as the handling goes, the tires are probably more important than the suspension itself at this level. If you have crappy 5+ year old tires that have been baking in the sun and beaten to a bloody pulp then they're not gonna do you any good regardless of how much you mod the suspension. Dropping $800 on nice tires would see more difference in this scenario than spending $1500 on brakes, springs, struts, bushings, etc. I'd personally run an open header for the event, but I'm not sure if you'd be marked down for the noise. I'd even run without a filter, it'll survive the day as long as you're not in a dusty area. Plus that's more weight you can pull off the front end If you're not doing anything high speed for the autox type challenges take the hood off. Shouldn't kill aero unless you're hitting 50mph+ and that hood is a heavy son of a-. The seats aren't light either. Take the passanger seat out for the event if you're allowed. Spare and jack as well of course. If your car has t tops i'd remove those as well, glass is heavy and the rigidity they provide while in place is minimal imo. If you go turbo though MAKE SURE that it's running as rich as you can get it without having noticable power loss. There's several ways to make it run richer. Popular ones to look into are: Air Flow Meter (AFM) Coolant Temp Sensor Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spraguepsycho1 Posted November 28, 2007 Author Share Posted November 28, 2007 Lots of good info, thanks for the input guys. The only mod I'm planning for the suspension is a set of rear shocks and struts off a j/y 2+2. Since they are a little bit stiffer, they help keep the rear from squatting so bad off the line which helps the launch a bit. I figure I should be able to get those for maybe $50 tops at the U-Pull-It yard. I will keep my eye out for the turbo parts, but they don't seem to be very common in my area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 turbo swap for sure, my car placed 10th in the GRM $2005 challenge, my car was overpriced to start with, I could do it again better and cheaper, the turbo is power you can use at the strip and the autocross, and spend some money on some good tires, this is an area that really makes a difference in the autocross, and if you're not an avid autocrosser, find someone who is or get some seat time, driver is the single largest difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.