RUSSJZ-ZED Posted February 14, 2008 Author Share Posted February 14, 2008 Which trans fits the best( shifter location) the supra or the chaser/sora trans? The R154 from a JZX90/100/110 has a longer extension housing( than the Mk3 Supra that used a R154) if centered in the shifter hole in tunnel puts the motor a couple of inches clear of firewall, Soarers and Na Mk4 Supras I think use the w58, stick centered should bring the motor closer to firewall. Check other threads for tunnel fit of TT 6 speed Supra box, only seen one out of a car, it apparently can fit, but looks BIG! Looking at a 7m the other day ,can't see any reason that making up mounts similar to what I did for 1J2J would not work off the rails, can't be too difficult to fab a set of brackets to fit to block.much better, weight distribution wise than trying to utilise the Datsun mounts. Anyone that intends to make a set of mounts is doing so at their own risk, the ones I made for mine were inspected and approved for weld strength /design and clearances, by a certifying engineer.In the state that I am in, The Motor Registry only licences about 30 to certify design work. Up to you to check safety /design etc with your relevant state authorities BEFORE you go driving!different rules, state to state, country to country. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED! Post is to show you what worked for me,I'm not a shop, not interested in manufacturing, if you can see how easy it is , go for it, improve,but just make sure what you do is safe,and approved. Plan B -No more Zeds for a while,I'm about to have a go at building a half scale focke Wulf 190 replica, engineering inspection fees are going to be a killer.but, I can blame the engineer if it falls out of the sky.(providing I bounce right.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gritz Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 I will do the swap in a 240z or a s13, i just don't know which yet....I really want to do a 240z because it's light and 300whp will get me high 11's low 12's in a 240z.....the s13 is light also at 2600lb and has a more solid body... Which ever comes cheapest(and most solid) is what i will go with.....Is there anything you don't like about the swap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted February 14, 2008 Author Share Posted February 14, 2008 ....Is there anything you don't like about the swap? for what I want, a fast road car, perfect,easy fit, great balance, and.....POWER!! you would have to ask people that race for opinions as to what bodyshell is best to dump the 1/2J in. Mine was built to drive, can't see the point in "park and polish", never got intersted in racing(lost interest in F1 when they moved the motors from the front to the back-and drag racing WTF?? where's the corners gone? ) The only time I aspire to is lunchtime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kilick1 Posted March 23, 2008 Share Posted March 23, 2008 I have a 260z non-turbo and I was wondering, would putting a twin turbo engine in a non turbo car effect the rear end of the car? If so what should I do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280z-racer Posted April 17, 2008 Share Posted April 17, 2008 I have a 260z non-turbo and I was wondering, would putting a twin turbo engine in a non turbo car effect the rear end of the car? If so what should I do? visist the multitude of threads for the R230 rear end swap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest chvzding Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 Having read this I am reconsidering my plans for an RB25DET swap on my 280zx. Just to clarify, you mention that this is an S30 swap, surely it would be an identical process for a S130? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted June 27, 2008 Author Share Posted June 27, 2008 Having read this I am reconsidering my plans for an RB25DET swap on my 280zx. Just to clarify, you mention that this is an S30 swap, surely it would be an identical process for a S130? Why not.Not too up on ZX's, but should have easier clearance of steering shaft , from memory the S130 rack is on the back of the subframe. More room in the engine bay as well?? just noticed you are in Oz,1J/2J half cuts can be picked up for under $2500 at the moment, much easier to install ,and both have more power standard than a RB25. (also, it really upsets the "you gotta keep it Datsun brigade" i Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest chvzding Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 Why not.Not too up on ZX's, but should have easier clearance of steering shaft , from memory the S130 rack is on the back of the subframe.More room in the engine bay as well?? just noticed you are in Oz,1J/2J half cuts can be picked up for under $2500 at the moment, much easier to install ,and both have more power standard than a RB25. (also, it really upsets the "you gotta keep it Datsun brigade" Apparently yes there is more room in the engine bay. I know where there is a 1JZ-GTE halfcut from a late model soarer with very low k's. I also happen to know the location of a manual box... Hmm. If I follow through with this I will document the whole process. I might need a new camera though... Evil plan coming together... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gritz Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 If you are using a standard 1jz-gte (91-93) you have to get a 2jz water pump if you are running ele fans correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted June 29, 2008 Author Share Posted June 29, 2008 If you are using a standard 1jz-gte (91-93) you have to get a 2jz water pump if you are running ele fans correct? Not sure on earlier 1JZ, the Vvt was an easy remove clutch fan, hook up thermos, link below could be of help if you do need to swap. http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=35702&highlight=1jz+water+pump anyone help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted October 18, 2008 Author Share Posted October 18, 2008 Photo's and descriptions of R154 install added to flickr photo bank, at the moment they are on page 5, but could get moved around depending on what else gets loaded. link. http://www.flickr.com/photos/russjz-zed/sets/72157601989530227/detail/ Still deciding if swap to manual was good move, auto had smooth power on, turbo kicked in early, no problem keeping it on boost,Quite civilised, Manual turned it into a beast.,running a 3.33 rear end at the moment, definately need a LSD (didnt with auto) also might fit a 3.08 rear end to take fill advantage of first gear,( with anything like a 3.7 or 4.08, I think it would just jump up and down on the same spot when it was floored) once moving pick up is phenomenal:icon54: but need to keep working at it to keep the boost on. With the auto hardly ever reved past 4000RPM now I seem to be hitting 7000 all the time on the way to the supermarket, lightened flywheel definately helping get the rev's up fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted November 1, 2008 Author Share Posted November 1, 2008 Cured problem with gear stick in 1st, 3rd, and 5th being too far away and too close to dash/heater controls, I did not want to have to put heat on this to bend it due to rubber insulated upper half of stick. Solution,(this works with late model boxes,don't know about Mk3 Supra type) I removed stick, rotated 180 degrees,re-installed, no problems, nothing in there that makes it a 1 way set-up. Angle now puts 1st near 90 degrees, 2nd at about 10 o'clock, -real nice position , good positions foe easy changes. Pic's on about page 6 on link below.(there is also pic' of some bushes on the remote that are much easier to replace when the box is out of the car. I found out one bush had had collapsed, destroying ease of shift, had to replace in the car,can be done but much easier if you plan ahead. New ones transform shifting. If any of this information I've been posting is of use to you, feel free to say thanks for pointers, I don't embarress easy.I do get the sh1ts when ideas I've tried out that worked, get claimed as original ideas by others elsewhere. -a few of my great ideas didn't work ,(If you first dont succeed, remove all traces that you tried.) If there are ways to improve,POST!,Also there is nothing worse than forums that do the "Look what I've done" posts with no information as to how things were actually done, SHARE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gritz Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Posting here to help other like my self... Wiring I take it, i will have to put a water temp sensor on my radiator to control when eletric fan come on correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyZ Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 I just realized I never gave you a big thumbs up for the work you've done, Russ. You rock. While I won't necessarily be using your ideas, reading your documentation and encouragement has made this project seem doable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 Posting here to help other like my self... Wiring I take it, i will have to put a water temp sensor on my radiator to control when eletric fan come on correct? I bought 2X12 inch thermo's of ebay, they came with thermo switches that are supposed to be fed down the top radiator hose, never had much luck with these things, found it easier to drill a hole the size of the sensor in the top tank, feed it in, the wire behind the sensor is usually thinner, get a piece of copper or brass about the size of a 1 cent piece, drill a hole in the centre the size of the sensor feed, hacksaw a cut from edge to centre hole, slip over the wire and silver solder to top tank, probably laws against defacing currency, but why not use a 1 cent piece? nice neat and round. Don't use more heat than you need to solder. 2 fans? the sensors with cheap fans usually have a narrow switching band, if you need a few degrees separation between the fans coming on, put the second fan sensor into the bottom tank. Thanks shaggyz,as you have probably found out by now, this is a swap the village idiot can do, I did it! anyone can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gritz Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 I bought 2X12 inch thermo's of ebay, they came with thermo switches that are supposed to be fed down the top radiator hose, never had much luck with these things, found it easier to drill a hole the size of the sensor in the top tank, feed it in, the wire behind the sensor is usually thinner, get a piece of copper or brass about the size of a 1 cent piece, drill a hole in the centre the size of the sensor feed, hacksaw a cut from edge to centre hole, slip over the wire and silver solder to top tank, probably laws against defacing currency, but why not use a 1 cent piece? nice neat and round. Don't use more heat than you need to solder.2 fans? the sensors with cheap fans usually have a narrow switching band, if you need a few degrees separation between the fans coming on, put the second fan sensor into the bottom tank. Thanks shaggyz,as you have probably found out by now, this is a swap the village idiot can do, I did it! anyone can. Cool thanks for the info..Im using one 4000 CFM ford Taurus fan with the stock radiator...Is your stock rad holding up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 Temperatures here set to hit 38C today thats close enough to 100F, second summer with only one 12 inch fan working,I live near the center of the city, 99% of driving is stop/start traffic light to traffic light,No over heating problems. must replace the dead relay in case the remaining one dies. these engines do not run hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gritz Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Temperatures here set to hit 38C today thats close enough to 100F, second summer with only one 12 inch fan working,I live near the center of the city, 99% of driving is stop/start traffic light to traffic light,No over heating problems. must replace the dead relay in case the remaining one dies. these engines do not run hot. Thats good to know...I plan on running one 75 amp relay, 10 or 14 gauge wire and a summit fan temp adjustable switch.. Just reconfirm what I'm thinking, do you remember how your wiring genius went about the charging system..adapting the 1jz altenator... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted February 4, 2009 Author Share Posted February 4, 2009 Sorry Gritz, apart from the heavy duty wire back to the battery, the others disappear into the inner guard, cannot even guess where he has taken them to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted February 8, 2009 Author Share Posted February 8, 2009 The original datsun shifter cover was never going to work, and as the heat coming through the hole was a bit much to take when the outside temps here are 25C-42C at this time of year, decided it was time to seal off the hole. Pictures are on the link below around abou page 7 (labeled shifter,). Simple to block it off effectively, all required is an old Z front brake backing plate,(amazing what you ca find in your own garage.) and a CV boot from whatever car came with a halfshaft size about the same as the Toyota stick. (I went through the scrap bin at a local driveshaft rebuilder , most FWD cars seem to have about the right size boots) Cut the brake backing plate on about the chalk lines shown in pic'(I used the backing plate because it had about the right sized hole, and the edges of the hole are raised without sharp edges- the first cover I made,I just hole sawed a piece of aluminium, after about a week, sharp edges cut the boot.) panel it on the tunnel to get the shape,does not need much. push the CV boot through so the plate holds it on the bottom concertina piece, get a silicone gun, run around boot top and bottom sides, leave for 24 hours. silicone the four bolt holes at the same time. cut a rubber gasket out of an old inner tube, fit over stick, bolt down. The cover is made of 6mm perspex, made a patern, and cut out with table saw, not advisable, sort of like pushing a sheet of glass through a saw, -lots of splinters flying everywhere. If there is ever a next time I will take the patern to the perspex shop and get it laser cut. The fold in the perspex I achieved by routing a chanel to weaken it on the line,and heating with a blowtorch then bending. There was room for a couple of gauges, so I put in an oil temp gauge. Wife made up leather boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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