Omar Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 So I'm about to take the head off. I believe its at TDC. In order to put it back on correctly later im going to mark the chain and cam to match them up later and the chain and crank. unless there is a better way. My question is how do i go about correctly releasing the tension off the chain to take it off. Also whats the correct way to put the tension back on. Any pointers will be appreciated about anything pertaining to the HG job. I searched and didn't find much as far as DIY guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e_racer1999 Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 sure it's been covered before, but here goes: 1. fabricate a chain tensioner out of wood (chiltons has a good picture) or buy one from MSA 2. hammer the CT down between the chain 3. make sure that tensioner is tight! 4. see #3 (i cannot stress the importance of this!) 5. unbolt the cam gear 6. using a hammer and a small piece of 2x4, knock that cam gear off the cam 7. get the chain off the gear (make note of the dots) 8. remove head, careful not to knock the CT loose 9. clean surfaces and put new gasket 10. reassemble EDIT - pick up a chilton's or an FSM. pretty much mandatory if you're pulling your engine apart. search the forums for more in depth 411 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Don't pop the tensioner or you will probably have to disassemble the whole front of the engine. Search here and zcar.com Read the manual on how to do it. I did one in couple of hours with only hand tools, without removing the manifolds, and no jacks or cranes. The only tool you might not have is a 10mm allen that you can use on a torque wrench (to torque it down). Don't forget, torque the head in 3 steps, working from the center out. Lots of people use a piece of wood to hold the tensioner in place. I have a piece of metal wrapped in electric tape. I've used it 4 times already. Others use a long screwdriver. I mark the sprocket, then the two links that are by that marking. Make sure your marks don't come off easily. Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 sure it's been covered before, but here goes: 1. fabricate a chain tensioner out of wood (chiltons has a good picture) or buy one from MSA 2. hammer the CT down between the chain 3. make sure that tensioner is tight! 4. see #3 (i cannot stress the importance of this!) 5. unbolt the cam gear 6. using a hammer and a small piece of 2x4, knock that cam gear off the cam 7. get the chain off the gear (make note of the dots) 8. remove head, careful not to knock the CT loose 9. clean surfaces and put new gasket 10. reassemble EDIT - pick up a chilton's or an FSM. pretty much mandatory if you're pulling your engine apart. search the forums for more in depth 411 Do NOT buy the chain tensioner tool from MSA. I did and it's not worth it. You get this slightly curved thin piece of plastic that says "Datsun Timing Chain Tool" on the side and it's useless. I ended up making mine out of wood just like everyone else, it's much more effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotfitz Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 The right size screw driver handle works good aswell. Pulling it back out with some needle nose pliers is alittle challenging, but still easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omar Posted November 8, 2007 Author Share Posted November 8, 2007 so I don't even need to take the chain off the crank. and does the cam gear only go on the cam in 1 way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 The cam has an alignment dowel on the end of it that lines up to one of three holes on the cam sprocket. The stock configuration is the #1 hole on the cam. No you don't need to take the chain off the crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locodrftr Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 well, here are some pics of some of the things u will need to do..... first the block of wood u need to wedge in between the chain. it should go something like this when you're at tdc on the #1 piston.make sure u tap it in so its fairly snug other wise the whole timing chain cover has to come out...once this is here unbolt the 19mm bolt from spocket using a impact gun or breaker bar or whatever just make sure u dont pop out your wedge.. Here is what the cam looks like when your at tdc...everyones will vary slightly i think but its good refrence...both lobes should be pointing up.. sprocket should look something like this....kinda blurry but u get the picture.. you can also remove the camshaft bolt first if it gets in the way of installing your wedge...just make sure the sprocket doesn't come with the bolt...as for the head bolts i used a craftsman 10mm allen key and chopped off the j part to make it square then i used a 1/2" 10mm 6 point socket to remove the head bolts....should be 14 of them.. once u get all the head bolts removed keep them in order and pull the head...clean the all the surfaces with some carb cleaner...and a razor blade or whatever...just make sure its clean...then make sure all your surfaces are flat(block and head)..clean the pistons as well...once all is good reverse your order and torque everything down...once you fire it up let it warm up and check for any leaks or loose bolts...enjoy... any other questions feel free to ask or if u need anymore pics let us know..lol good luck ted.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locodrftr Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 all these pics are from my L24 i totally forgot you have L28et but it should be the same procedure... Ted.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 I would use a shorter 10mm hex. I don't know how much torque is lost in that length, maybe none. I always get some slack on the tension side of the chain before I stuff thew wood in there. The extra slack makes it alot easier when you put the cam sprocket back on. You can turn the cam a little to line them up but don't touch the crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omar Posted November 9, 2007 Author Share Posted November 9, 2007 so i took the head off. thanks for all of your help. i didnt see any obvious leaks in the HG. i wasnt burning coolent or anything but my car was always runing HOT. and when it was on and i had the rad cap open and i tap the gas, i had bubbles immediatley come out of the coolent which is a strong sign of HG. so idk i cant see anything thats obvious and i will be getting the head checked out within a few days. hopefully, if the head is not warped and i put it back together its good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 fast z Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 For a force to be given, there has to be an equal and opposite force. You could have a 20 foot long 10mm hex, if it reads 100 foot lbs on the torque wrench then you have 100 foot lbs on the bolt. It may not get to that torque, BUT the yeild factor will have to be above the torque spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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