MyLaDyZ Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 Hey, i've done my research about back-halveing and i can barely find any information about backhalve a Z and putting a ford 9" i've readed that people have done it but i want more info and some pics. So if any of you guys can help me or lead me to the right direction i will be thankful. My setup is going to be a 383 stroker with a turbo 350 im going to be putting down 500Hp to the crank and supposely run 10's with the dyno simulator and drag simulator at school Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garvice Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 Is this the sort of links your after http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124935 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123149 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109476 I'm sure there are other guys doing it, but he is the only one that comes to mind. His screen name is "Stony", just do a search on threads started by him, and get a cup of coffee first, because there is a lot of good information there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 There was an excellent write up on a Ford 8.8 rear end. They can be made to fit a Z relatively easily. Should be more than sufficient for your HP goals. And you may want to do a few searches on that transmission. Not the best choice for a Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 If you plan on footbraking the car, IMO, with only 500hp at the crank and an automatic, I would go with the R200 and CVs until it breaks, if it ever does. Different story if you plan on using a t-brake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyLaDyZ Posted November 21, 2007 Author Share Posted November 21, 2007 Is this the sort of links your afterhttp://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124935 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123149 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109476 I'm sure there are other guys doing it, but he is the only one that comes to mind. His screen name is "Stony", just do a search on threads started by him, and get a cup of coffee first, because there is a lot of good information there. THankyou very much this is very helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1 240Z Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 i bought my car as a started backhalf.. i honestly wish mine was all still there. but ill work with what i got. my main suggestion would be to buy a whole Moser rear end.. i got a 9 inch with my car.. and i already have like $600 in it and its just a 2.73 open rear end.. if i would do it over id just call Moser and have them build you a rear end whatever width, with whatever gear you wanted.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted November 22, 2007 Share Posted November 22, 2007 I have a moser 9 inch in the Monte. Complete with disc brakes and detroit locker it was about $2100. I have 2 narrowed 9 inch rear ends for z cars. One came with the z and the other I bought complete for $450. Shop around and you'll find a deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted November 22, 2007 Share Posted November 22, 2007 How does the diff/axels/stubs do when you foot brake the car to preload the driveline, then hit the transbrake and build boost. I would think this isn't any different then just footbraking? Am I wrong? Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyLaDyZ Posted November 22, 2007 Author Share Posted November 22, 2007 I have a moser 9 inch in the Monte. Complete with disc brakes and detroit locker it was about $2100. I have 2 narrowed 9 inch rear ends for z cars. One came with the z and the other I bought complete for $450. Shop around and you'll find a deal. I'm actually taking a fabrication class right now and i was thinking about building a fab 9". but your setup for 2100 sounds like a great deal. where did you find it local shop or internet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted November 22, 2007 Share Posted November 22, 2007 I'm actually taking a fabrication class right now and i was thinking about building a fab 9". but your setup for 2100 sounds like a great deal. where did you find it local shop or internet? Direct from moser actually Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinsamberg Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 Hard to do with out the car welded down to a table. Before you cut the the floor out you 'll need to brace the car up with some kind of temporary brace that can be removed later. You need to plumb-bob the car. This will show you where the instant center is on the car's front suspension. Put your plumb-bob's string through the zirque fitting through your front lower ball joints. Make marks on the ground with a felt pen. This will provide you a place to measure your wheel base and to square the car. Then mock up your axel housing using a set of jack stands or whatever you have. You should have a rolling car in about 40 hours. Less floor pans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roller Posted November 26, 2007 Share Posted November 26, 2007 i have a extra mail carrier jeep rearend. bolts directly under no narrowing just add ladder bars. it's a dana 44. holds up under mine to 1.27 60's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj paul Posted November 26, 2007 Share Posted November 26, 2007 Unless your going to be putting more power down or you just want to do it just because it would be cool (i know ive done that) i would probobly use the stock R200 and maybe get upgraded half shafts. it would only be about $300 i think and way less work. Then if you break those, you could go ahead with the solid axle setup. The only other thing i could see is going ahead and spending the money to get a locker setup, since any quality locking setup for racing using the R200 carrier is over $800 anyways, i believe. If this is what your looking for though, you could always get a suburu rear end, you just change the output flanges and youve got a viscous locking diff for under $50. I can get back to you on what years and models this diff came on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garvice Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 I can get back to you on what years and models this diff came on. Please do. Is there a right up on this anywhere? EDIT: Sorry, foot in mouth. I did a search and it looks like there is, so I will go away with my tail between my legs and read a bit first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zthis Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 I'm doing a solid axle conversion currently on my 280Z. Having a stock rear end running in the 10s is great. But snapping U joints and side axles like candy and busting up those indestructable R200 gets sicking after a while. 30 year old metal can only last for so long even with 500 crank HP and pushing low 1.5 60 fts. Spend the cash and time do it right. For a "hybrid" website there sure are alot of people here promoting stock parts. I'll post up some pictures soon and maybe alittle write up. Good luck with your project Curtis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LZ1 Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 Interested in seeing pics of your solid axle conversion!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sick240 Posted December 1, 2007 Share Posted December 1, 2007 Interested in seeing pics of your solid axle conversion!! here is some pics of mine rear end swap, its a 8.8 about half way down on the page http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127752 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zfan1 Posted December 1, 2007 Share Posted December 1, 2007 I too am sick of breaking the rear stub axles. I just installed 2 and my first time back to the track at Ennis, Tx. I snapped one trying to hit the juice at the 60 ft. mark. I am done, no more ind. rear end. On a positive note I ran a new best on motor only, 10.56 at 128. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted December 1, 2007 Share Posted December 1, 2007 So what is the benefit of a ladder bar setup vs a 4link? Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted December 1, 2007 Share Posted December 1, 2007 Never Mind, I found this link: http://www.competitionengineering.com/articles/chassis2.asp Ladder Bar: "The Ladder Bar is a more sophisticated traction device because it serves as an extremely rigid, bridge-type truss that locates the rear axle housing directly to the chassis. With the axle housing held firmly in place, the torque applied to the differential is now transferred immediately through the Ladder Bars and into the chassis. By using the Ladder Bar to carry power to the chassis, the front end reacts by rising. As the front of the car travels upward, rapid weight transfer is created which "plants" the rear tires and propels the car forward." 4 Link: "4-Links offer more adjustment over Ladder Bars and can handle higher torque loads. With two bars per side, one on top and one on the bottom, you basically have an open ended Ladder Bar. You can adjust the suspension for different track conditions by manipulating the mounting positions in the frame and axle housing brackets. This gives you the option of making the intersection point, or point of "instant center," as far forward or rearward to suit your particular needs. The point of instant center is the location where the upper and lower links would intersect if imaginary lines extended from the front of the 4-Link bars. Unlike a Ladder Bar where the point of instant center is always located at the bar’s front mounting point, the instant center on a 4-Link changes quickly as the car is launched." Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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