Starting LQ4 Swap.. Check this out for me.

[Slammed68]

Im ready to start ordering stuff for the swap and im trying to compile a near complete list of everything I will need for the swap. Already have mounts, d-shaft adapter, tranny mount, and headers.

 

I also need someone to school me on the LQ4 fuel system and how you run that with a Datsun fuel line setup. I want to use the Walbro 255 pump also. Another thing is the clutch setup. The guy who wrote the LS1 swap thread, used a tilton setup, I can get a 3/4 master cylinder, and want to know if that would mount the same and would use the same size clutch line.

 

Heres my list, If anyone would like to add, feel free.

 

Component List.

1) LS1 wiring harness and computer – Tune

2) LS1 crank pulley

3) LS1 water pump

4) F-body Alt bracket

5) LS1 intake and injectors

6) Serp belt #060547

7) Goodyear pulley #49003

8) Lokar throttle cable #TC-1000LS148

9) Tilton 3/4 Clutch Master Cylinder

10) Russel clutch adapter # 640281

11) 32†Russel braided brake line -3AN – 90 deg end –

12) JTR radiator kit

13) JCI Driveshaft

14) Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator

15) Walbro 255

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[zgeezer]

Don't buy the LS1 engine loom unless you confirm with the manufacturer that it will fit the LQ4. The truck engines often use different injectors that use a different connector than the LS1. My LM7 truck engine uses smaller connectors for the injector units. My loom is from Street and Performance out of Mena AK as is specifically tagged as truck engine only.

 

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Im ready to start ordering stuff for the swap and im trying to compile a near complete list of everything I will need for the swap. Already have mounts, d-shaft adapter, tranny mount, and headers.

 

I also need someone to school me on the LQ4 fuel system and how you run that with a Datsun fuel line setup. I want to use the Walbro 255 pump also. Another thing is the clutch setup. The guy who wrote the LS1 swap thread, used a tilton setup, I can get a 3/4 master cylinder, and want to know if that would mount the same and would use the same size clutch line.

 

Heres my list, If anyone would like to add, feel free.

 

Component List.

 

1) LS1 wiring harness and computer – Tune

2) LS1 crank pulley

3) LS1 water pump

4) F-body Alt bracket

5) LS1 intake and injectors

6) Serp belt #060547

7) Goodyear pulley #49003

8) Lokar throttle cable #TC-1000LS148

9) Tilton 3/4 Clutch Master Cylinder

10) Russel clutch adapter # 640281

11) 32†Russel braided brake line -3AN – 90 deg end –

12) JTR radiator kit

13) JCI Driveshaft

14) Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator

15) Walbro 255

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Slammed68]

Wait4meperformance.com does mail order tunes and standalones and is who I am going with.

 

Ive got LS1 injectors on my list of stuff. They said the LS1 harness will work fine and they have done it before and have a tune for my application.

[Pop N Wood]

Did you already get your transmission and clutch hydraulics? If you have an LQ4, I assume it is an auto. So you will need a new flywheel when you switch to the manual.

 

The braided clutch line is the way to go. Get AN fittings on the ends and make things simple. You will still need some type of mounts. Jegs and summit have these nice stainless and rubber clamps. One thing I did was to add a speed bleeder valve to the clutch bleed line. Figure it will make bleeding the clutch hydraulics a little bit easier.

 

You didn't mention what oil pan you will be using. You will need the windage tray, oil pump pick up and dipstick to match the new pan. Plus gaskets obviously.

 

What year car are you putting this in? If it is a carb'd vehicle you will need to sump the tank. Depending on your intended mods, now would be a good time to upgrade the fuel lines.

 

Of course you will need radiator hoses, heater hoses, an adapter for the different sized heater hoses on the LS motor. Might as well look into the JCI "vital fluids" kit. That will give you the JCI temperature adaptor that is needed to make the stock water temp guage work. Except I don't know if they sell that without buying their mounts first. If you go electronic guages then you should be able to use the existing LQ4 sensor. But you will need the adaptors to fit the stock oil pressure sensor to the LQ motor.

 

What are you going to do for a speedo? Keep the stock one with a gear drive box, or switch to an autometer electronic speedo? If it is a 280 you can reuse the stock tach, once you turn the screw on the back to recalibrate it for the extra two cylinders.

 

The rest of the exhaust can get done by a shop, although you will need to decide what type of muffler you want as well as pipe diameter, dual vs. large single.

 

You will also need an F body belt tensioner. The LQ4 starter should work, but for completeness throw a set of battery cables on the list.

 

Might as well add a Ron Tyler style diff mount to the list.

 

I could probably come up with more if I opened my swap notes.

[Slammed68]

Whew.. lol

 

Picked up the F-body belt tensioner last night.

 

The car is a 77 280z so the tank should already be sumped correct?

 

Im using a T56 from an 05 GTO, aftermarket clutch, and depending how much money im going to have left, a lighter flywheel.

 

On the clutch, can I use the stock master cylinder? Im kinda a Noob when it comes to AN fittings, I have just never worked with them. I dont know how to run the fuel system completely yet, but Im almost sure I know the basics.

 

PopNwood, you have any other reccomendations, pictures, or anything that would help? You seem to have done this a time or two lol.

[m1noel]

Whew.. lol

 

Picked up the F-body belt tensioner last night.

 

The car is a 77 280z so the tank should already be sumped correct?

 

Im using a T56 from an 05 GTO, aftermarket clutch, and depending how much money im going to have left, a lighter flywheel.

 

On the clutch, can I use the stock master cylinder? Im kinda a Noob when it comes to AN fittings, I have just never worked with them. I dont know how to run the fuel system completely yet, but Im almost sure I know the basics.

 

PopNwood, you have any other reccomendations, pictures, or anything that would help? You seem to have done this a time or two lol.

 

 

when you say stock master cylinder, do you mean Z or GTO. The Z cylinder is only 5/8", so no. The GTO one works great but I had problems with them leaking. I used the 75 series tilton with a 90 degree adapter and the supplied adapters from tilton to go directly into the GTO lines. The reason for the 75 series with the 90 is so I could still use the stock washer bottle.

 

I would also get rid of the old fulible link setup and install fuses.

 

Do you have a fan/shroud yet. I used the JCI set up with the JTR radiator and it works very well.

 

Good luck,

Mike

[Slammed68]

I no longer have the fusible link setup. I run inline fuses now. The only wires going into the engine bay right now are the headlight and turn signal wires.

 

Here is the clutch master cylinder I am looking at on Ebay - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NASCAR-TILTON-3-4-MASTER-CYLINDER-W-RESEVOIR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33566QQihZ008QQitemZ180182862572QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

Its a 3/4 though, I dont know how that would work for me.

 

I was planning on getting the JTR radiator and mount kit, along with a decent fan from jegs or other.

[Savage42]

I was planning on getting the JTR radiator and mount kit, along with a decent fan from jegs or other.

 

The JTR radiator will work, but only JCI (Johns Cars) makes the engine & trans mounts for that configuration.

[m1noel]

[quote=

Here is the clutch master cylinder I am looking at on Ebay - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NASCAR-TILTON-3-4-MASTER-CYLINDER-W-RESEVOIR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33566QQihZ008QQitemZ180182862572QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

Its a 3/4 though, I dont know how that would work for me.

 

That will work, it looks like the 74 series, and you won't be able to use your washer bottle in the stock location with it. The 75 series has the same bore and stroke but is shorter.

 

Mike

[Slammed68]

Washer bottle is already out.

 

The JCI motor mounts are already on their way and should be here this week. I have the JTR tranny mount already here though, shouldn't be a problem with the JCI mounts.

 

Savage42 - Sorry for the confusion, when I said mount kit I meant the radiator mounting kit

 

I would like to get some stuff ordered though, so right now if I was going with that tilton, I can get the Russel 32" -3AN braided brake line along with the clutch adapter mentioned in Grenade300's write up and it should all go on like butter.. correct?

 

Anyone reccomend any certain flywheel? I was looking at the lightweight flywheels on ebay and some just dont seem to be as high quality as a Fidanza, or am I just being anal.

[Pop N Wood]

PopNwood, you have any other reccomendations, pictures, or anything that would help? You seem to have done this a time or two lol.

 

Well, I have done about half a swap. I started a swap about a year and a half ago, but family and work issues prevented me from touching it for the last year. but all is good now so getting back into it.

 

The MC kits include both AN and standard double flare output nipples. I used a Wilwood kit with a 3/4" bore and 1" stoke, but I am running a TKO and not the T56 everyone else did. The bore and stroke for a T56 slave should be in an old post somewhere. This set up will NOT clear the washer bottle and pretty much bolt up in the stock location. Probably no different than the tilton, so get whichever.

 

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product2_10001_10002_744520_-1

 

As for clutch lines, they make about every conceiveable combination of line length and fittings, so when you get it all together just go to Summit Racing and find the exact length you need. Summit Racing has a nice web site that lets you pick lines by specifying which fitting on which end, length, etc. AN fittings are a dream, so use them where you can.

 

The 77 tank has a sump. Many guys feel it needs a bigger/better sump, but IMO unless you are flat out road racing you will be OK with the stock sump.

 

I ended up going with an LS7 clutch and flywheel. But the FW is massive heavy, so may not be what you are looking for.

 

One last word of warning, EVERYTHING on an LS motor is metric. Some of the SAE threads are "real close" to the metric, so just make sure you get the right metric bolts.

[Slammed68]

So for the fuel system basically all I need is a FPR and a bigger fuel pump. Walbro 255 work fine for this? It should bolt in right where the old one is.

 

I was lookin at flywheels last night and alot of people shy away from the fidanza because It doesn't come balanced, or at least thats what I read on LS1tech.com. I read about the Ram flywheels and thats what it seems like alot of people are using.

[Slammed68]

I was also thinking that a stock clutch would work fine in my application since its pusing a lighter vehicle than the Fbody. This sound about right?

 

[LS1 240Z]

buy an LS7 clutch.

[Slammed68]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mini-sprint-Wilwood-Late-Model-Tilton-master-cylinder_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ107061QQihZ002QQitemZ120189293880QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

Lost the Tilton 3/4 on ebay to some last second bidder..

 

This one is a 15/16 and doesnt say what series.. will this work just as the other one would?

[Slammed68]

anyone?

[mobythevan]

One last word of warning, EVERYTHING on an LS motor is metric. Some of the SAE threads are "real close" to the metric, so just make sure you get the right metric bolts.

 

And a lot of them are torque to yield bolts that have to be replaced, like the big one that holds on the crank pulley.