Zmanco Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 Some of you may remember that my crank damper came loose and damaged the keyway. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127217 Last weekend I finished the repair and after a few drives so far all is well. In brief, I followed the repair as suggested by the Miata guys: http://www.mx5.net/garage/hsue/LoctiteCrank1.html Instead of loctite 242, I used 243 which is rated for exposure to oil. Also, I had to do a fair amount of filing of the crank around the keyway so the damper would fit over it. I bought some small files from HF and just went really slow to avoid taking off too much. I ordered the longer crank bolt 12309-V0800 that Slownrusty had suggested, but the hole in my crank was not drilled far enough to use it. I didn't want to reuse the same one that had previously come loose, so I stole the one from the original L24. If there's a lesson in this it's I wish I had used the loctite 243 on the crank bolt right from the start. Others had recommended it, but for some reason I didn't follow that advice. As you might imagine, I would STRONGLY recommend that anyone who happens to have their damper off use loctite when reassembling it (use it both on the crank threads as well as between the damper and crank snout). I'm guessing that while I had R&R'd mine several times before with no issues, the last time I did was to install the new cam. I'm thinking that regular trips to 7k rpm may have been the issue this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 Thanks for the Lesson Learned. I will remember this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 Been there, done that! Whenever you change the oil, get in there and yank on the crank pulley. They do get loose sometimes, and it's usually too late when you find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73GreeNMachine Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 i always thought that loctite wouldn't be efficient because of the torque required on the crank bolt... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted December 1, 2007 Author Share Posted December 1, 2007 i always thought that loctite wouldn't be efficient because of the torque required on the crank bolt... What do you mean by "efficient"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted December 1, 2007 Share Posted December 1, 2007 Glad you got your key way issues sorted Daniel! We should have a CO get together sometime, there are a few of us within an hour of each of each other. My car should be done in a few weeks. Yasin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted December 1, 2007 Share Posted December 1, 2007 If there's a lesson in this it's I wish I had used the loctite 243 on the crank bolt right from the start. Others had recommended it, but for some reason I didn't follow that advice. As you might imagine, I would STRONGLY recommend that anyone who happens to have their damper off use loctite when reassembling it (use it both on the crank threads as well as between the damper and crank snout). I'm guessing that while I had R&R'd mine several times before with no issues, the last time I did was to install the new cam. I'm thinking that regular trips to 7k rpm may have been the issue this time. If you have the large front damper it won't hack 7K very well. The first signs of a problem are bits of rubber that look like they came from the fan belt on the bottom of the hood and up the inner fenders. That's the sign of a damper dieing, and you better take notice. You also need to throw away the flywheel bolts and install new ones. When you lose one end of the crank the other takes all the beating. It may seem like overkill but you won't be very happy when the flywheel comes loose and wipes the end of the crank. Don't ask how I know this. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted December 1, 2007 Share Posted December 1, 2007 i always thought that loctite wouldn't be efficient because of the torque required on the crank bolt... It really doesn't matter. Loctite acts like a kind of a glue to give a bit of a vibration elasticity to the torque setting. It is especially important when the torque setting doesn't cause much elastic yielding on the bolt or other piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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