nbesheer Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 Okay so I replaced my fuel injectors, and got a palnet fuel rail. with a gauge on it. I got everything hooked up. I'm getting a little bit over 40 PSI and the car does not start. The plug wires seem to be in order. do the injector wires need to be a certain way, I thought they all fired at once, what should I do ? I'm thinking that they car should at least try to start since I didn't mess with the cold start valve, other then put a new hose on it. EDIT, I am getting spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 You put the injector wires back in the same way they came off? On the 280zx wiring harness I have, they were labled 1-6. I don't think you can cross them. Should be just like crossing spark plug wires which is a no-no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted November 30, 2007 Author Share Posted November 30, 2007 Okay, I got it to sputter briefly, if anyone could help me find out the order that would be nice, carfiche doesn't have my car up yet. Okay, so my haynes manual doesn't provide nearly anything about 1983 models and I looked at the wiring diagram for the 82, and if I set up mine that way, there are 2 wires that are not long enough to reach. :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted November 30, 2007 Author Share Posted November 30, 2007 Okay I tried cranking it with the injectors spraying on a rag and only two of them spray. these are new OEM injectors bought off a member here, so how would I go about trying to fix the injectors ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 are you using new injector clips, or old cracked ones? You may have to check continuity in the wires. Secondly, are you getting adequate fuel pressure when trying to start? dumb question but did you plumb the fuel lines and FPR correctly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted November 30, 2007 Author Share Posted November 30, 2007 I am using old injector wires/clips - one wire has ~12v all the time, and I've not tested the other one. But I switched the wires from the non working to the working and the same situation. I have 40 to 50 PSI, and only injectors 4 and 6 spray and the FPR is plumed correctly, bottom pipe going to return and the side pipe going to the fuel rail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted November 30, 2007 Administrators Share Posted November 30, 2007 Ok. lets nail this down. 1) You have a measured 40 PSI at the injectors while cranking. 2) The car finally sputtered briefly. 3) Injectors removed, noted only 2 injectors (new/used OE S-30 injectors) sprayed fuel while triggered. Kind of sounds like either the injectors are stuck closed or you have faulty connections at the injectors themselves. Just swapping out injectors and fuel rail, sounds more like stuck/froze/corroded injectors than connections. First, lets get the batch vs. sequential injector firing myth/theory squared away, for the 10,485 time. The S-30 and S-130 injectors and firing orders. The numbers on the injector wires are only there to confuse people. No really. Those numbers serve no purpose other than to set the wiring so that the wire lengths all match up nice neat and purty like. The S-30/S-130 injectors are fired batch mode. They all fire at the same time, each and every time. It makes ABSOLUTELY no difference WHAT-SO-EVER what order you swap the injector plugs, the engine will run EXACTLY the same every time and the injectors will fire exactly the same at the exact same time, PERIOD! Of course, so long as the connection is good. The S-30/S-130 injectors are a low impedance injector and as such utilize a dropping resistor, one per injector, which reside next to the clutch master cylinder. The location is not important. If you have an old EFI wiring harness laying around, cannibalize one of the injector connectors, or water temp, Thermal time, cold start injector, or IAC connectors with and extended pigtail on it, +36” in length. With injectors on the fuel rail, fuel system pressurized, The injector to be tested dangling in a clear glass/fuel safe jar, go through each injector. (Please OH please, be VERY careful as you are spraying fuel near an electrical source, i.e. the battery. Please use some sort of enclosed electrical switch/button to reduce the risk of fire. PLEASE!!!!!) You want to trigger those injectors directly from the battery, hence the +36” pigtail length. Don’t hold the injector open for any period of time longer than 5 seconds or so, just for quick short bursts at full battery voltage, (no dropping resistor) in an effort to “unstick” a possible stuck pintle valve. Note the spray pattern. Typical OE S-3-/S-130 injectors have a shallow stream/squirt gun like pattern, especially compared to modern injectors. It should be conical in shape, not too heavily biased in any direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted November 30, 2007 Author Share Posted November 30, 2007 Yes, my dad said that I have 40/50 PSI on the fuel pressure gauge while cranking, on the rail itself. The injectors are OEM said to be unused but are not new as the label on the nissan boxes is quite weathered. I do not have an old harness anywhere, but i might be able to fashion one up in the meantime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 Learn something new every day. Thanks as always Paul! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74Adam Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 "Yes, my dad said that I have 40/50 PSI on the fuel pressure gauge while cranking" Isn't that supposed to only be 36 psi? Am I wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 "Yes, my dad said that I have 40/50 PSI on the fuel pressure gauge while cranking" Isn't that supposed to only be 36 psi? Am I wrong? Yes that is high but it wouldn't cause a no start. As Braap said it sounds like a stuck or faulty injector. Another thing it could be is check to make sure you have 12v's while cranking. That's not likely the problem since you didn't change the feed wires but its a simple check to make sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 I've seen people say to try energizing them with a 9v (using brief spurts) to try and dislodge them if they are stuck. If your connectors are old and brittle you might have to redo them: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/connectors/index.html Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted November 30, 2007 Author Share Posted November 30, 2007 Okay, so I connected them to a 9V battery (sorry brapp the car battery seemed too scary. but they all fired and then the car started!!! I'm so excited, but it's raining so I can't drive it right now. But the fuel pressure is stable at around 45 PSI through out the revs, so does that mean I need a new FPR ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrism Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 You should be able to hear or feel the injectors open and close when the coil is charged. I used a noid light to make sure one side of the injector connector was pulling low. The light should blink when trying to start the car. When you said that you switched wires from none working to working and the problem stayed with the physical injector 4 and 6 or the wire harness connector injector 4 and 6? I have used a 9 volt battery to test the injectors and I could hear the injector open and close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrism Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 Oops!! I can't type fast enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 I would check the ohms first. Make sure it's not zero. Injectors that have sat a while can stick. I have had it happen on rebuilts that sat for only a year. Ran them for a few minutes with a really rough idle and they unstuck. Had it happen on others too and did the same, let them run for a while(5-10 minutes). Never had one not come loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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