chrism

I have a Buddy Club Spec 2 exhaust. It sounds loud when idling but it's not bad running down the road. I can still talk to my passenger. http://vid191.photobucket.com/albums/z167/chrisrmoniz/280z/IMG_0322_zps2hhw5lww.mp4

I have a J30 DIFF, From there I used the J30 tripod bearing housing. 300ZX (NA) axle then a 240sx Tripod bearing housing to the modern motor sports adapter with the double bolt three position bolt pattern. No thicker adapters. There was enough room for the springs inside each CV axle. I didn't have to grind anything. Just put it together and install. Axle does not bottom out or try to pull apart when the wheel assembly is raised all the way up or lowered all the way down. Works good for me.

I used 300zx axles and had them it shortened to fit both sides. Here is a pic of the modification. I have enough travel that it won't bottom out. I sent my axles to Performance cryogenics. website is http://www.performancecryogenics.com The guys name is Dean. They mostly mod rock crawler axles for jeeps and 4 wheel drives. Email is performancecryo@mindsync.com . They can even put your axles through cryogenics to make them much stronger. They will be the last thing that breaks. $65 per axle to re-spline and also add the clip groove at the end. $100 per axle to run through Cryogenics. It's not a very precise picture with exact measurements but it was good enough for what I needed. This is for the longer axle. I don't have a pic of the shorter axle but you get the idea. Misspelled Spline also. So shoot me. If you have a set of 300zx axles, you will see that there are thicker spots along the shaft in the right location for resplining. I would post pictures but I was so excited when the axles came back that they went together and in the car. So I forgot. They look great and the tri-bearings were very smooth moving up and down the splines. No play. I live in NC and Performance Cryogenics is in CA. Took only two weeks from the time I shipped them to the time they shipped them back. Dean always answers his emails. He doesn't care if you can't spell. They don't mess around.

I tried using 280zxt cv axles with the J30 bearing housing at on end and the 280zxt bearing housing on the other end. The short shaft fits the passanger side. I have to shorten the springs and make the cover on the end of the CV axle that connects to the companion flange flat. This shaft is still too long for the driver side. The output shaft on the J30 stick out further than the original 280z output shaft. That is what is making this do difficult. I might try looking at a Q45 axle next. Not sure if the tripod bearing will fit the splines on the Q45. If it does and the Q54 is shorter, that might work.

I'm leaning towards 300zxt CV axles. The one with a tripod barring configuration, Swap the stub shaft side out with a 240sx stub shaft. Still looking into it.

Looks like the Z31T is a 29 spline. I counted the splines on the J30 stub shaft and it also was 29 splines.

You guys are way ahead of me. I don't have much idle time so it's gonna get done when it gets done. This is a 75 280z. I'll be sending my companion flanges in for adapters at Modern Motorsports. I put the J30 carrier into my R200 diff housing. I have the original Ring and Pinion still in my R200 housing. Now I'm at the point where I need to check back lash. Once that is done, I'll close it up and get it back in the car. What I have been trying to find out is if a Z31T stub shaft will fit in the J30 carrier. Has anyone done this before? If so, then I would only have to get the companion flange adapter. Chime in if my assumptions are incorrect.

Thanks Jon.

Does anyone know where I can get a set of 2MM spacers for my J30 VLSD. I swapped my original ring gear from my 83 R200 diff with a J30 diff. The original R200 ring gear has 10mm bolts. J30 diff uses 12mm bolts. There have been a lot of post on this topic but I can't find a source for the spacers. Not getting anything on Google. Just a lot of companies that sell washers. Thanks

I believe there is a capacitor in the clock. It's electrolitic. They tend to dry out over time and go bad. Try getting a replacement and see if that helps. Check out this link from classiczcars. http://classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23622&d=1212753644

rb20det Good gas mileage. Use for DD.

super job Z-YA. Now all we need is the same schematic for all the other swaps.

OgrishForum.com . Dood, I'm afraid to ask. Look at what youtube has for the word Ogrish. Is that like a reality website kind of thing. Can't get a good description on Google.

Amorfin, You make a good point, but I have heard and read the same view from other news sources as the one in the link. I was also wondering how the dealers recouped the cost of crushing some of the more expensive trade ins. Not sure how that works.

From the dealer and customer end the numbers look good. Now add the administrative cost from the various government agencies and you get $20k per car. I was low in the estimate. Read this article. http://money.cnn.com/2009/10/28/autos/clunkers_analysis/index.htm

Any white smoke coming from the exhaust?

I'm sure your right, but search doesn't come up with it. Also, I don't like resurrecting old threads. Plus there are lots of new members. Oh, you for got to list your other forums.

What other forums do you belong to. What do they focus on. I'm on the swimming pool forum called troublefreepool. My user name is Srswimsalot. When I'm not riding my creeper around on the floor of the garage, I can be found floating around in my pool. And like the Z, I need all the advice I can get when it comes to pool maintenance and chemicals.

Could be in limp mode because one of the sensors you mentioned may not be sending a signal back to the ECU. Also, make sure the O2 is connected good. No signal from the O2 can cause rich conditions. Check fuel pressure. Should not be above 36psi for fuel Injection. If it is, could be bad regulator, return line could be clogged. I would start with making sure all sensors are connected good.

You have a short and may have blown the ECU with that jumper wire. Fuses blow for a reason. Check to see if you are getting a ground signal from the ECU. Use the ECU Pinout to see which wire is the ground wire to the pump relay. You can also just turn ignition to on and then jumper the ground on the relay to the frame. If pump turns on then suspect problem with ECU. This still does not solve the first problem of why the fusible link blew.

I'm not sure. Having it shorted to the wiper motor is not a good thing. Probably why the motor was disconnected. The ecu needs to know timing so that it can pulse the injectors at the correct time. That would be before the ignition occurred. Does sound like you found the problem. Pulse width would be determined by feedback from the air flow meter reading. Also gets feedback from o2 sensor.

ECU uses ground to pull the injectors low on one side. You can use a noid light to see if your getting a pulse. disconnect injector plug. Put light across the plug. There should be no light unitil the engine is turning over. When the engine is turning over, the light will pulse. Or you can check the voltage on the ECU side with a DVM. When the car is turning over, the voltage will drop. If not, check the ECU ground and power connections before replacing the ECU.

Get someone to turn the car to the on position. Not start. You (not a friend) listen for the fuel pump to turn on. If it doesn't turn on then you need to check the relay. It doesn't matter what the spark plugs are doing if the pump does not turn on. Don't even think of looking at the injectors until you get the fuel pump working. The fuel pump supplies power to the injectors according to the FSM . You should also be able to hear the relay click when the key is turned on. Next to the fuse panel in the passenger foot well. If that does not click then it could be several things. Fuse, ECU ground. Power to the relay. If it's power to fuel pump relay then look at the FSM to see where power is coming from. I have a 75z and it has a connection from the oil pressure switch to the fuel pump relay. If the switch does not detect pressure then the relay will not come on. Safety measure to keep from running the engine with no oil in it.

Way to many variables. You have to get the FSM. If your going to T/S wiring issues then you are going to have to get the FSM. It's almost impossible without it.

FYI, It cost the tax payer 20k for each car that was turned in. We should have just bought the cars and gave them away. Dealer didn't make much because of all the paperwork they had to fill out. Some dealers quit doing cash for clunkers before the program was over because they weren't getting paid back quick enough by uncle Sam. I watched some news clips of the cars getting crushed. Some of them looked like they still had 100k miles left in them. What a shame. Those could have gone to the needy. What a big joke.