MJLamberson Posted December 17, 2007 Share Posted December 17, 2007 ok guys, I do not own a welder, nor do I even know how to weld... knowing that how would you fix the following dents on my right and left front fender? would it be easier to replace? Im starting to prep for paint and this is my biggest hurdle: http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh177/MJLambersonz/IMG_229.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh177/MJLambersonz/IMG_232.jpg also, what about this rust hole under my hatch? http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh177/MJLambersonz/IMG_233.jpg thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted December 17, 2007 Author Share Posted December 17, 2007 pleeeeeeease???? Im new to body work, share your knowledge... sombody has ot have delt with similar dents.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted December 17, 2007 Share Posted December 17, 2007 Unfortunately those dents are in some very hard to reach spots. Get a hammer and dolly set to work out the body crease at the bottom then you can try the Dent King kits from advance. For the rear hatch slam panel, without welding, I wouldn't attempt it. Bondo is pointless in that area not to mention a body work sin. Get a small MIG welder and learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted December 17, 2007 Author Share Posted December 17, 2007 ok, I did know bondo is bad... but what about quik steel? fiberglass? like I said Im new to this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted December 17, 2007 Share Posted December 17, 2007 Bondo is only bad when laid thick. Taking your time and banging out the dents as much as possible then laying a fine layer of bondo over to smooth it out is perfectly fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted December 17, 2007 Author Share Posted December 17, 2007 has anybody tried to use quick steel as a body filler? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZXR_KiD Posted December 17, 2007 Share Posted December 17, 2007 I've used JB weld as a body filler but only filling emblem holes on a ghetto rod projet truck... did ok but I really wouldn't know how anything similar would work as a dent filler... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyZ Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 I've never heard of using JB weld to fill small holes but it seems like it would work fine. Could this cause problems down the road? There are a few things I am hoping to fix on the body of my 280 and JB weld would be so easy, seems like it would be miles better than bondo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZXR_KiD Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 it was a total expiriment thing... we where taking it to a cruise in show and the JB was REALLY close to the color of the rest of the truck so we tried it... we used so little of it that no one noticed untill we pointed it out to a few people *kindof the "You'd never beleive this" type thing* it has yet to have fallen out (3 years later) but has actually turned rusty (never got coated after applied) ... so I don't see why it wouldn't work for small things like that aslong as it was properly primmed afterward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 I think we are all over looking the problem he wants to use the jb for in the 1st place. For the dents bang, pull and bondo thats all there is to it but for that rear hatch there isn't a thing in this world going to work besides cutting that cancer out and welding in fresh steal. You may get quite a few dif options that will make it look better..... for maybe a month while that rust just keeps growing, then you will be much worse off then when you started. I guess you could in theory cut out the rust and use jb weld to hold in the fresh steal but that seems mighty scummy and short sited to me. Know what I mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted December 18, 2007 Author Share Posted December 18, 2007 yeah I hear you... those fender dents arnt just going to pop out though, I will work at it... is bondo the best brand or is there a better way to go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Ya, I don't mean to say its easy so much as thats just the way it has to go. If you cant get at them to bang them out then I would use a slide hammer to pull them out. Bondo is a quality product in my opinion. The key is to take your time on the metal work so you can use as little bondo as possible. You could also use Dynatron #592 "Putty cote" instead of bondo if you like. Its a finish filler which means its more money for less but its also much easier to work with. Hope that helps, good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted December 18, 2007 Author Share Posted December 18, 2007 woooo, just finished pulling my front bumper, 10:21pm in the rain no garage, haha. sry just had to tell someone... helpful hint to all: never let PB blaster get in your eye... I heard a technique were you drill holes into the dent then us the hole to pull them out? whats that all about and might it be a good idea for my dents? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Pb is a lil ruff lol, try brake clean sometime haha. Yes you drill holes and use a slide hammer to pull them out. Ideally though you DON'T want holes, when you use that method you weld up the holes. That doesn't work well for you, although using jb to fill those holes then bondo over wouldn't be bad at all. You can rent that slide hammer at most auto parts stores. The other path to drilling holes is a gun that tac welds pins where ever you like and you pull on those then grind them off later leaving no holes to patch. I believe you can rent this gun as well and doesn't require any welding knowledge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Edit: Now that you have it off, be sure to take some pics for us as you get the dents worked out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Bondo is only bad when laid thick. Taking your time and banging out the dents as much as possible then laying a fine layer of bondo over to smooth it out is perfectly fine. The above is ok only on a sealed surface. If there is even a pinhole in the steel you will have a miserable future as the bondo slowly absorbs water through that pinhole eventually causing a HUGE mess. If you want to go that route... evercoate makes some water proof and water resistant fillers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted December 18, 2007 Author Share Posted December 18, 2007 The above is ok only on a sealed surface. If there is even a pinhole in the steel you will have a miserable future as the bondo slowly absorbs water through that pinhole eventually causing a HUGE mess. If you want to go that route... evercoate makes some water proof and water resistant fillers. not sure I understand you there... are you saying bondo isnt waterproof? if there were anyholes I think I would JB weld them then bondo like what teamnissan said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Ya thats exactly why I said you don't want holes. Bondo in order to stay light is sort of like a sponge, with tiny cavities. It will over time absorb water, deform, crack and fall right out after the paint gives way. I don't like to work with the water proof stuff and usually refuse too but it is a option. I don't believe there is ever a valid reason to have exposed bondo on your car. Even of its the back side, slap some por or equiv over it and it will be fine for years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted December 18, 2007 Author Share Posted December 18, 2007 so how much bondo is to much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 I wouldn't exceed 1/4 inch and that even a bit much. When I lay it I want it no thicker then 1/8 inch. Sometimes though what can you do it has to be a lil thicker. Bondo get a bad wrap because of scummy shops that are too lazy to do proper base repairs and just lay tons of bondo, smooth and paint. That may look good for a while but it NEVER lasts. Bondo however is used by some of the most prestigious shops around, just properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.